Like ajw22 suggested, try a large capacitor, eg 2,200uF 25V across the controller input but also add a diode eg 1A/100V like this:
Orion 12V positive output > diode > controller with capacitor.
This way, when the inverter pulls a brief surge, the cap is not drained by the inverter & holds the...
I googled for "smoke detector with alarm contacts" & there where lots, seem more expensive than the regular ones though..
Might also be called "smoke detector 4 wire"
Should find one with relay contact output - "alarm output"?
These should be...
OK the voltages you are using are good.
The swelling is not so good - that's probably what the smell is from, ie they are venting some gas/vapours.
If you can arrange some framing to compress the cells back to "normal" shape, this would probably help the life.
The original use probably over...
The strips may be too thin for the current. At 500W, 48V system, that's approx 10A
Depending on voltage drops and the BMS connection points, you might be seeing effects of current flow on the strip resistance.
The way those strips are laid out it are you sure you have even current flow through...
To be clear, the "low volts" is when you first get the cell, what is it's initial voltage, not after any charging.
Ie open pack, test volts as the first test done.
If low, then bin/recycle.
Next IR test, again before any charging - although testing this later is OK, just maybe not as time...
Since Pete has a 14s system the cells are grouped in packs of 14, so cells 42 to 56 are in "the pack with the problem" & yes agree it looks like cell #44 is a heater/bad SD(self discharge) & I'd also be very suspicious of cell #51 for the same.
Of the rest, only cell 2 cells stand out: #24...
You might like to look at some testing flow charts in this thread:
Looking for cells to weed out early (before charge/discharge testing) is likely to save a lot of time.
Like Wolf says above, Eg testing for low...
With your panel choice, going with the most common size the local solar industry is using now may save you money.
Also consider what panel replacement cost might be if there is damage, eg from a hail storm or you drop one during install.
Voc must be "cold day" heavy cloud to sudden full sun...
It's true water stores heat very well.
Only better stuff is phase change salts.
There's another recent post where Daromer pointed out it's not very efficient to go sun > PV > electricity > heating element (maybe 20%).
It's much more efficient to go sun > heat water directly (approx 70 - 80%)...
As an interim to 48V upgrade why not parallel the 2x 24V batteries.
Re the panels inputting power to that batteries, sounds like you need a proper MPPT charger vs the PWM unit (I'm guessing) you have now?
A proper MPPT charger will "adapt" the panels best V max power point to the best output...
They are the "red Sanyo's".
Check them for IR first, these cells are notorious for being "heaters" & may not be safe to use (sorry for bad news!).
They get hot when charging near full voltage but never get to "stop charge" voltage.
You need an IR meter like a YR1030 to test with.
If you can emulate the charger's function with a CVCC buck converter, sure.
Must current limit properly + stop at controlled CV point properly. Should also disconnect when it reaches CV & current has dropped away.
You could also make socket adaptors, eg put a "blank" with wires in the regular &...
Hola como comprobar un bms con un multmetro
Hello how to check a bms with a multimeter
Puedes usar el primer negativo, a cada uno de los positivos.... pero
You can use the first negative, to each of the positives ... but
Use the multimeter to measure each cell.
Compare to what BMS says.