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That's still debatable :ROFLMAO:

Ahhh ok, that makes sense now. So you can't use commonly available relays then, gotta use the somewhat proprietary hardware. That sux

That doesn't make sense, tho. How do you disable them without running extra wire?? 🤔 Unless there's an AC signal running along the DC power lines to trigger them. There'd have to be extra wires to trigger them on or off. Do you have an article that discusses these relays you're talking about...

Wow, that is interesting. I hadn't heard of the remote relay cutoff before. Kinda makes sense, I suppose. But a lot of extra wire to run. At least you should be able to just parallel all the relays if you have to go this route. I'm gonna guess that the voltage required for the relays is gonna be...

If solar panels are possibly adding to an electrical fire, then having the above will drastically help. As in, maybe you or a neighbor will know to pull those disconnects before the fire department shows up. Also, having those disconnects should be part of the build anyways. There is absolutely...

Ok, then use just 1 charger, and parallel all your batteries together. It would be far healthier on the batteries if they didn't discharge too far anyways, and a slower discharge rate (aka lower amp draw) is also healthier. There is no need to make things far more complicated. You really don't...

This is what I'd use: And one for the Pos and one for the Negative. The Firefighter walks up, opens the box, and yanks the bridge out of the contacts. There'd be no arcing from one terminal to the next as they are too far apart, and the handle is highly insulated

I'm confused as to why you would want to do this 🤔 Why not just have both batteries connected in parallel, and then have both charger controllers output connected in parallel. Both chargers will charge the banks based on SoC and input voltages. If the Solar array for Charger1 is too low, it...

To minimize inrush current you want to use resistors and a relay. Power goes through the resistors until voltages balance out between the two sides and then the relay kicks on to bypass the resistor. Mosfets would also work for this. A Mosfet would have the added benefit of being able to limit...

Of course, when you parallel the TP boards themselves :P

The best response to that request is to start reading up on the threads here. This covers a lot of topic to try to pack into a single thread.

Just taking a strap and wrapping around the bank of cells would be fine. Generally speaking, the expansion happens from charge/discharge cycles more than anything. So just sitting idle for a few months probably won't cause anything. Plus I think the increase in chance of expansion happens at...

Panels "should" have built in diodes for this reason. But a good idea to check either way. Good layout/idea for connecting the controllers.

Yeah, they are getting themselves in a "catch-22" situation. It's good that you are aware of the various regulations, even the conflicting ones, and the costs involved. You've done your homework. 😲 Another option you could do is use 2 controllers on the shaded area alone. This would split...

And this is why higher voltage is recommended as the higher the voltage, the less the losses incurred are over the same distance and same sized wire. Which means you can double the voltage, halve the wire size, and still basically have the same results. With a net ending result of saving a lot...

Yeah, if the law states "visible from the road front", you have quite a bit of wiggle room to do solar on the roof considering they are pretty flat. You have the advantage the building is multi-story, making it even more difficult to see the roof top.

He states that the fireplace was removed and the chimney was sealed inside. So there's no energy losses through the chimney. If it's a case of historic reasons because of where the house is located, getting the news/media involved is gonna be pointless, it won't do anything. Same is true if...

Aside from that, the biggest question is "Why do you want to use 12 volt system??" If you haven't bought any equipment, it is highly recommended to go with a much higher voltage, 48V based system is a very common. The higher the voltage, the smaller the wire gauge needed and lower voltage drop...

Do you already have the charger/inverter above, or about to purchase it? If not purchased yet, and there isn't future plans for the 24V unit, I would recommend waiting until you have enough cells to make a true 48V based system and get the charger/inverter for that voltage. Otherwise you'll...

Depends on your soldering/spot-welding skills and what kind of space you need for the pack(s). Electrically they are identical. The biggest thing would be bms control and how you do the charging btw, you can edit a previous post if you clicked on Submit too soon ;) that way you don't make...