There are lessons to be learnt from this project and still a few questions.
I was concerned about the smoking of the drill after replacing 30 NiCd cells with 20 x 18650 (10s2p).
So I removed two of the cells, the total of which were supplying 42v which still left it with 37v.
What I should...
So I got the new 35A BMS, I plugged in the balancing cables, I have not soldered the thicker negative cables yet but I thought I would check the voltages to see if they resolve the problems above.
So I put one probe on the Battery Main Postive terminal, I then tried each of the Negative solder...
I planned to make a 10s battery with just 10 cells, I bought a 16a BMS
Later I got hold of 20 decent cells so I decided to make it a 10s2p battery
I got a new 35A BMS although the cells are 20A
So the new unit arrived and it has thicker cables.
As the cables for my old BMS are already...
Sorry for delay in reply, I must have missed the email notification
I have since found that this BMS unit was 16amp, I originally planned a single 10s setup but ended up witing two together, which are 20A, so I have now ordered a 35v
I was extremely careful to check all the balance leads. The battery was recycled so it has solder in place for all the balance leads.
I was really hoping for a response from someone who has a battery BMS and can measure it or who has actual relevant experience of the issue I have raised.
I have this drill that I am converting to 18650
When I pull the trigger it starts smoking, so I opened it up and it seems to be some sort of heat sensor.
You can see from the pic that the heat sensor chip is wired into the trigger, and sits on a heat sink.
Does anyone know of a more powerful...
I installed a 36v BMS, all seemed fine, when I tested the voltage I noticed
B- Battery is at 36.6v
P- Load is at 18v (approx)
C- Charger is at 18v (approx)
The device drawing the load would not work at 18v
Has anyone come across this ?
I have converted an Ni-Cd 36v drill battery to an 18650 battery.
The connector to the drill has the obvious positive and negative terminals, but it also has an earth terminal.
This has a black wire going into a silver thing (red arrow below), then another black wire comes out and was soldered...
Thanks for your reply
It does indeed come with the first black wire which as you say goes to the negative of the far right cell.
The way I understood it, is you start from the black wire, then just follow the current through the cells, putting the next red wire on the next positive it passes.
I have been building a 10s battery and saw this BMS wiring image online
At first glance is seemed a great way to visualise the BMS wiring, but on closer inspection I think a mistake might have been made, the error seems to be in the numbering of the wiring on the bottom set of...
If you read the first post you would see why the "oddball config"
"The problem I had was that my battery was producing around 42v and something in the connector area inside drill started smoking!"
To get a boost or buck converter I would need a high amp one, so cheaper to just buy a 36v one...
Thanks for your reply and for clarifying the function of the BMS.
So I guess I will have to go buy a 36v charger
Does anything on the ebay listing suggest it may vary, I am still wondering what that 36v is on the box.
Unfortunately I only have work phone and it is locked down to prevent me...