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the dots are a date range indicator like the stripes in the same place. the dotted ones are quite old now.

cells are marked ceenr-hf. which leads to... https://ceenrbatteries.com/

got some vanon 14.4 dewalt replacements a customer bought. 4.0 ah? i doubt it! testing underway. i have seen 4ah sub c but not in cheap packs.

just found some brighter red ones(not translucent) with blue ring

says generic. so you likely are NOT getting top tier cells like an oem pack has. i did buy 60 of that style pack from a surplus dealer for $1 ea. they were nos originals but 8 years old. they had samsung 26f at around 3.2v/cell. and they came up near new.

i have a bunch of these from hp packs that were locked out due to low voltage. like 2v a cell. brought them up slow and easy and they are all 2700-2750@1a on my original triton. no heaters or sd. Diggs were yours real low? seems every one of these packs are run low. and all the cells come up and...

that thing is begging to be destroyed! no lvd? crap!

make your own. i made one with 10 8" lg mono cells. 10 tp4056 chargers with various cell holders on each. this panel can fast charge 5 modern smartphones/tablets at once. there are plenty of places to get supplies to build a panel. a commercial 6v panel is too high voltage for this use. 10 or 11...

yet another crap cell variant. over 3600mah=B.S under 45g is suspicious too. have not seen the powder filled ones in a while. they must have gotten rid of the rest of the toxic drywall dust by now.

25r is a safe bet. btw that looks like a very common tool pack. lots of brands with only key tabs to differentiate. easy to fix with a dremel.

i find those same cells in devices that are designed to be recharged. rather wasteful to use in disposables. i tell folks all the time to save them as the cells are useful. top voltage is 4.2v

lg cells with that style print are getting pretty old now. those are hardly new. well you voided any warrenty it probably didnt have :-)

while researching battery data. found the cell database via search engine.

they are a 1500mah 15a continuous cell. and probably old age and an application that dumps them in about 5 minutes. i would replace with these. https://www.18650batterystore.com/collections/molicel-18650-batteries/products/molicel-p26a those are my go to for tool pack rebuilds. just rebuilt some...

i stuff them in 3aaa side by side items along with a tp4056 board.

i have rebuilt a bunch of bikes myself. got a goldwing tore down right now. getting that tank fixed is first. as long as its shedding crud you wont keep a carb working very long. i tear the carb down and remove any plastic. then soak in hydro seal or berrymans carb dip. blast it out with air...

you also want to vent it outside in such a way that if there is a catastrophic failure the resultant blowtorch possible at the end of the vent wont ignite anything. tight enclosure=bomb.

enough energy to blast that diode=dead driver opto. and likely other parts. on high cost parts jobs i replace everything. then test via dim bulb. idea is to have enough resistance in circuit to limit current if something gets latched up . a bulb does that and serves as an indicator.

btw the time to test all the drive parts was before reinstalling that heatsink and igbt's you have 5 identical channels so a problem one will stand out. clean off the 8 pin ic's and post the number.