150/180 Watt Electronic Dummy Load under-voltage fix

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i asked them about that and they told me the chip on the right had to be changed, must be the microcontroller. Looks like negative is welded on both capacitors

if you are able to take a better pic we could maybe find if they cut the voltage feed somewhere before welding it o the other side
Coulour display model

image_repopr.jpg


Edit:

Unlike the couloured model iwas able to find the positive voltage feed on my older model like the op
but voltage reading is still bad, so 3 wire is a no go.
Need to find the negative to do a 4 wire setup

image_nhwgee.jpg


image_lyibwn.jpg
 
CrAzYDr1veR said:
i asked them about that and they told me the chip on the right had to be changed, must be the microcontroller. Looks like negative is welded on both capacitors

if you are able to take a better pic we could maybe find if they cut the voltage feed somewhere before welding it o the other side
Coulour display model

View attachment 15473


Edit:

Unlike the couloured model iwas able to find the positive voltage feed on my older model like the op
but voltage reading is still bad, so 3 wire is a no go.
Need to find the negative to do a 4 wire setup

View attachment 12251


View attachment 11109
Click to expand...
Hi all,

I have same device as one on the picture above. And I am not able to find negative to do four wire setup, is any one able to help me? Please.

Regards,

Hank
 
gauss163 said:
Btw, this youtube video shows the DL24 frying in only a few secs at 20V/8A (start at time 13:50). He says it blew a fuse and the IRFP260mosfet(which he thinks was fake). It's in Russian but you can turn on subtitles and auto-translation.
Click to expand...
Just doing a bit of research into these and came across this thread.

It doesn't have to be fake. The IRFP260 junction to case transfer is only 0.50°C/W and the case to sink is 0.24°C/W. Assuming that temperature on his display was a good indication of the actual heatsink temperature (which it probably wasn't!), then the actual junction temperature would have been 182°C. The max junction temperature of these MOSFETs is 175°C

Above 150°C the max current it can push goes from 20A down to 0A at 175°C, so it would have quickly went into an avalanche and killed itself.
 
Oh, and that Atorch unit with the colour display and all the USB connectors has been updated. They've removed the USB connectors completely and added a 4-wire system to allow for accurate voltage measurement.

I've one on the way, I can update here when I get it if theirs any interest, but it will probably be a few weeks.
 
A few months ago I bought an Atorch DL24 to test some LiFePO4 batteries...it was working very well...I installed the software on a laptop to be able to see the graphs and one day out of nowhere the software apparently got corrupted...on the screen I only see some words in Chinese and below that product upgrade...any idea what happened to it?...can it be fixed?...thanks
 

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You should be able to connect to it with a USB cable and force the update again. Probably it started to a reboot while it was still grabbing information via wifi.
On most things, don't do an update wirelessly unless you have to.
 
I have tried via USB cable but it doesn't recognize the com port in the software...any suggestions?
Korishan said:
You should be able to connect to it with a USB cable and force the update again. Probably it started to a reboot while it was still grabbing information via wifi.
On most things, don't do an update wirelessly unless you have to.
Click to expand...
I have tried via USB cable but it doesn't recognize the com port in the software...any suggestions?
 
There is another way to fix it. You can probably reprogram the chip by connecting directly to the serial lines to the chip and dump a good firmware to it. There's the wifi module that is directly connected and you could probably use that to grab the serial connections.
This is of course if the MCU is actually booting up enough to enable the serial port.

The other way would be to connect directly to the MCU and use a programmer to push the firmware to it
 
Korishan said:
There is another way to fix it. You can probably reprogram the chip by connecting directly to the serial lines to the chip and dump a good firmware to it. There's the wifi module that is directly connected and you could probably use that to grab the serial connections.
This is of course if the MCU is actually booting up enough to enable the serial port.

The other way would be to connect directly to the MCU and use a programmer to push the firmware to it
Click to expand...
I'm still trying to connect it via USB and have it recognize the atorch device... Where can I find the firmware that came from the factory? Could someone please help me? Thanks again.
 
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