24v to 220/230v 50hz 500w Pure Sine Wave Inverter

bluebeard

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Aug 13, 2018
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Hi Guys,

Any recommendations for a good source of an inverter that is durable enough to remain on none-stop for about a year.

I'm building an off-grid monitoring system in a remote location where utility power is rarely present.

The battery bank will be 48V 1,800wh using 18650s.

I will also need it to have a transfer switch so it can supply the monitoring system when grid or solar power is available.

The monitoring system will draw between 150w to 200w of power.

A source in China would be great as its very easy for me to order stuff from there. USA would also be fine but i doubt any supplier will stock 220/230v 50hz inverters.

Thanks, looking forward to your advice and recommendations.
 
You can do it all with a PIP inverter from MPP solar. They have utility charger built in, so when external power is available the PIP will supply Your load from the grid. No need for any transfer switch, it is all in one unit.

I think You need more battery cap. 1.8 KWh will only last for 9 Hours, hardly one night long...

ChrisD
 
You could go the route of getting a 48V server grade UPS like AveRage Joe and a few others. Those are designed to run for much longer periods and generate pure sine. 3000+W units can be had for about $150USD or so

There are other inverters that are inexpensive, as well. Most of the "Reliable" brand inverters are good, but just remember the number they are "rated" at is the surge rating, not operational rating.
 
ChrisD5710 said:
You can do it all with a PIP inverter from MPP solar. They have utility charger built in, so when external power is available the PIP will supply Your load from the grid. No need for any transfer switch, it is all in one unit.

I think You need more battery cap. 1.8 KWh will only last for 9 Hours, hardly one night long...

ChrisD

Hi ChrisD,

Thanks for your reply. At night the monitoring system will actually use less power at about 100w depending on what I configure. 1.8 KWh will do just fine. I'm busy still working at ways to have the system consume less power overall but working with 1.8 KWh is a good benchmark to start with.

The PIP inverter from MPP solar costs over $350 for a 800w unit, I believe by splitting the Inverter, Charger and Transfer switch I will be able to reduce the overall cost and increase the overall flexibility of the system.

I will be deploying about a dozen of these if the first one is successful so I'm trying to optimize around cost, flexibility and reliability.

A couple of inverters I found price friendly were typically those used for Cars and Mobile Trailers, they are light and very simple to operate and hence customize. Since I'm aiming for only about 500Watt I'm hoping to get an Inverter with or without a transfer switch under $100.

Here are the two 1200Watt ones I found on Amazon.com, please ignore the output voltage I'm only using them for reference purposes.

GIANDEL 1200Watt Power Inverter 24V DC | $98.99 (Discounted)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MLCFM3/

Aims Power 1200 Watt Pure Sine Inverter w/10 Amp | $187.13
https://www.amazon.com/Aims-Power-Inverter-Transfer-Switch/dp/B012D2DG4O

...bluebeard


Korishan said:
You could go the route of getting a 48V server grade UPS like AveRage Joe and a few others. Those are designed to run for much longer periods and generate pure sine. 3000+W units can be had for about $150USD or so

There are other inverters that are inexpensive, as well. Most of the "Reliable" brand inverters are good, but just remember the number they are "rated" at is the surge rating, not operational rating.

Hi Korishan,

I found a couple of AveRage Joe's videos showing the 48V server grade UPS. Eg. -

These are the Low Switching Frequency ones, optimized for high surge capacity. They are usuallymuch bulkier than the high capacity ones.

I barely need a surge capacity above 120% of the rated operational rating.

I think when looking at ratings as low as 500Watts the Inverters designed for cars seem to be optimized for size and cost which all favor my application. But the matter of reliability of the long term is what I haven't a clue about.

...bluebeard
 
From my row of experience:
A $100 Modified sine wave inverter may or may not work. It did not work for me.

Then I got a 12v 1500w sine wave inverter. This unit has run flawlessly for more than 2 years, but that was also more than $100.

A 24V 2Kw sine wave inverter blew up after a few days.

Then I realized that I could stick with the 1500W 12 volts and its limitations, or grow up :)
so I ended with a PIP4048MSD. (No I do not get paid by MPP).

This inverter delivers 4KW+, no sweat.

Next, I also have a $100+ emergency transfer switch, to go from PIP Power to back-up 12V emergency power, but the surge that occurs during switch over stops my freezer for about 10 minutes before it recovers.
The PIP transfers from utility to battery without any disturbance. (Have tested, before deciding to disconnect utility power alltogether)

If You really need 10 PIPs, am convinced that You can get a discount.

I still think You need more than 1.8 KWh of battery storage to make this system stable.

Best of luck to You.

ChrisD
 
ChrisD5710 said:
From my row of experience:
A $100 Modified sine wave inverter may or may not work. It did not work for me.

Then I got a 12v 1500w sine wave inverter. This unit has run flawlessly for more than 2 years, but that was also more than $100.

A 24V 2Kw sine wave inverter blew up after a few days.

Then I realized that I could stick with the 1500W 12 volts and its limitations, or grow up :)
so I ended with a PIP4048MSD. (No I do not get paid by MPP).

This inverter delivers 4KW+, no sweat.

Next, I also have a $100+ emergency transfer switch, to go from PIP Power to back-up 12V emergency power, but the surge that occurs during switch over stops my freezer for about 10 minutes before it recovers.
The PIP transfers from utility to battery without any disturbance. (Have tested, before deciding to disconnect utility power alltogether)

If You really need 10 PIPs, am convinced that You can get a discount.

I still think You need more than 1.8 KWh of battery storage to make this system stable.

Best of luck to You.

ChrisD

Hi ChrisD,

Thanks a lot for your reply. Without a doubt experience is very important when it comes to Inverters as they are very complicated little devises with a lot of things that can go wrong if poorly designed. I'll definitely take your recommendations into consideration.

Please what was the Model and Brand name of your "1500W 12 volts" and "24V 2Kw" Inverters?

...bluebeard
 
Hi ChrisD,

Thanks for pointing me towards the direction of MPPSOLAR INC.

I found these two versions that match my needs and price point perfectly.

I will design my battery bank and solar array to match either one of these Hybrid OFF Grid Solar inverters.

1KVA 1000w 24v 220v off grid hybrid solar inverter + MPPT solar charger 40A + 20A battery charger | US $250-290
https://mppsolar.en.alibaba.com/pro...PT_solar_charger_40A_20A_battery_charger.html

1000w surge 2000w 12v pure sine wave inverter with battery charger 20A with PWM 50A solar charger | US $159.00
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/1000w-surge-2000w-12v-pure-sine_717123665.html

What do you think?
 
bluebeard said:
Hi ChrisD,

Thanks for pointing me towards the direction of MPPSOLAR INC.

I found these two versions that match my needs and price point perfectly.

I will design my battery bank and solar array to match either one of these Hybrid OFF Grid Solar inverters.

1KVA 1000w 24v 220v off grid hybrid solar inverter + MPPT solar charger 40A + 20A battery charger | US $250-290
https://mppsolar.en.alibaba.com/pro...PT_solar_charger_40A_20A_battery_charger.html

1000w surge 2000w 12v pure sine wave inverter with battery charger 20A with PWM 50A solar charger | US $159.00
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/1000w-surge-2000w-12v-pure-sine_717123665.html

What do you think?
I willgo for the first one, the mppt charger will do a better job charging Your batteries. The 20 Amp utility charger will keep Your system running when utility power is available.

I still think You should consider more battery capacity. :)

One final thing I thought about this thelast time I wrote an answer to You.
To me it sounds like this is some kind of dataacquisition station, situated at a remote place.

Saving a few dollars seems to me like a bad idea. Have You estimated what it would cost You to travel to one of these stations to replace a sub $100 cheapskate inverter that just blew up?

Best of luck with Your construction.

ChrisD
 
If it is a computer based monitoring system then staying DC should be more efficient for the supply side. Laptops 19V typically, dual buck for 12V and 5V suppies. For remote monitoring I would avoid doing the DC-AC-DC loop altogether if you have a limited energy budget.....

MPPT charge controller for the solar - or PWM if the Vmp of the panels is about 10-20% above your maximum battery charge level.

Standard small trickle charge unit (car type) attached to the battery bank - when power is available the unit will charge. Leave it permanently connected and switched on. Unless power is only available an hour or two at a time there is no need to charge at high currents, cutting the cost by a lot..

Check the power draw on the PIP when it is not under load to see how much of your energy budget is used just powering the PIP...
 
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