If the inverter output is ON, just the internal AC generating circuit will use some power, even if nothing is connected on the AC line. But this is typically only 10W~50W.why there is such a difference
there was no fridge connected at that moment, weird things going on there, inverter not charging battery above 28v,lg fridge discharging 24v 40ah battery from 28v to 22v overnightIf the inverter output is ON, just the internal AC generating circuit will use some power, even if nothing is connected on the AC line. But this is typically only 10W~50W.
You mentioned a fridge earlier - any chance that it's drawing power?
551W from PW = 200W fridge draw + 10W~50W loss in the inverter + 194W left to charge battery.
There may be several charge voltage settings, such as "boost", "saturation", "equalize", "float". They're only relevant for charging lead acid batteries. For Lithium, you have to set them all to 29.4v (or whatever).inverter not charging battery above 28v
Maximun capacity at 24v * 40Ah = 960Wh.fridge discharging 24v 40ah battery [...] overnight
I just checked the manual. So you should have changed...7s16p 18650(eve 26) battery, noticed that despite setting in inverter charging voltage 29.4v battery charging to only 28v, is that normal?
as two day in a row stopping charge at 28v
Depends. You should get a maximum of 10.2A ~ 10.77A from the panels on a sunny blue-sky day, when all panels are aligned perfectly perpendicular to the sun. On a fairly cloudy day, 2Amps would be reasonable.pv A input 2.0A is it normal with this setup?
so 1x 280w + 3x 330w gives around 1270w so in perfect conditions i suppose to get pv input around that in the inverter?Depends. You should get a maximum of 10.2A ~ 10.77A from the panels on a sunny blue-sky day, when all panels are aligned perfectly perpendicular to the sun. On a fairly cloudy day, 2Amps would be reasonable.
Plus, the inverter will draw only as much current as it has something useful to do with. If the batteries are (close to) full and there's no AC load to drive, then the inverter will draw hardly any current from the panels.
Yep, the 280W+330W PV panel mix is fine since Imp and Isc are nearly identical.
Yes, under good conditions you should get around 1270W give or take. If you're only getting 600W, something is wrong. Post pictures of the panels, wiring, and battery. It's happened before that some innocuous oversight has had devastating effects on performance.max i noticed was around 600w
The 60A BMS can power 60A*24V=1440W (realistically maybe 1kW), and thus is more than enough, if you're just powering the fridge.minimum 150a bms
ok will post pics soon, so 60a bms is enough for 24v 105ah?, my next project is battery pack build from 8x eve LF05Yes, under good conditions you should get around 1270W give or take. If you're only getting 600W, something is wrong. Post pictures of the panels, wiring, and battery. It's happened before that some innocuous oversight has had devastating effects on performance.
The 60A BMS can power 60A*24V=1440W (realistically maybe 1kW), and thus is more than enough, if you're just powering the fridge.
The Ampere rating of a BMS just sets the limit on how much current you can draw from the battery, and how quickly you can charge the battery.60a bms is enough for 24v 105ah?
Did you add more cells in parallel? your 7s16P would be 41.6Ah24v 105ah
thx for explanation with bms A, now for the 600w, it was a pv input not battery charge input, so far achieved max 600w pv input and that was in cloudy day not sunny like yesterday (300-400W),so definitely is something wrong with my 4pv panels mounted on a flat roof, as far i know all of them having 30° angle and i read somewhere they should be around 38° as my latitude is 53° so will correct that over the weekend.ACTUALLY,
I just noticed that at least some "Daly 60A 7S" BMSs (I believe there are several versions) have a charge current limit of just 30A. That may be why you're only seeing 600W charge - the BMS keeps interrupting the charging as soon as the charge current ramps up above 30A. If so, that's not good at all. For one, the constant interruption will likely slow down the average charge rate to way below even 30A. More importantly, it may cause the BMS to overheat, possibly even damage the inverter. The best immediate action would be to set the inverter setting#02 (max charge current) to 30A or below, to at least not trigger the BMS.
The fully charged voltage of 29V and fully discharged voltage of 22V works fairly well for both chemistries, resulting in cell voltage of 4.14V ~ 3.14V for 7s Lithium-Ion, and 3.63V ~ 2.75V for 8s LiFePO4. A bit conservative as I already indicated previously: cells will live much longer if you avoid the extreme high/low voltage ranges.why is the best to avoid them