hi bud, great write up, how's it running now? I bought a 2018 BMW 530e battery pack for an EV Conversion and am absolutely lost where to even begin with Simp BMS, I have download the so called "manual" and haven't got a clue how to wire it, do you think you could help me?
BMW i3, SimpBMS, Victron Multiplus 48v 5000 build
- Thread starter Darkwing
- Start date
New & used Batteries, Solar, accessories, LifePo4 cells & more 5% Coupon "Powerwalls" www.batteryhookup.com
CarelHassink
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SIMPbms Teensy arduino breakout board + BMWi3 firmware will work with BMW i3 BMW i8 and e-MINI,
so I think you're trying to use the wrong battery.
It is not working with BMW hybrid battery packs, at least we never tested it.
with the right BMW EV second-live battery,
easiest way of connecting is to recycle the original bms cable with its 8 black connectors, and the blue (number 9) connector,
if based in Europe, one can order at Hubauer.de "HERE" at just ~€24, original and tested
with kind regards
Carel Hassink
so I think you're trying to use the wrong battery.
It is not working with BMW hybrid battery packs, at least we never tested it.
with the right BMW EV second-live battery,
easiest way of connecting is to recycle the original bms cable with its 8 black connectors, and the blue (number 9) connector,
if based in Europe, one can order at Hubauer.de "HERE" at just ~€24, original and tested
with kind regards
Carel Hassink
Last edited:
Carel, Darkwing, Ive got a i3 battery pack now with 6 cells, plus one spare.
Looking at the output of SimpBMS the single unit believes it is module 2.
I fear that each pack is programme with its module ID and that I may not be able to integrate this "spare" module into the spare slots in the pack
Is this the case?
Looking at the output of SimpBMS the single unit believes it is module 2.
I fear that each pack is programme with its module ID and that I may not be able to integrate this "spare" module into the spare slots in the pack
Is this the case?
CarelHassink
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- 184
Hello mr/mrs Bashers
did you check the other 5 CSC's if there's a conflict?? ie you have 2x ID2??
Maybe you are lucky, and there's no duplicate on the can-bus.
best regards,
Carel
did you check the other 5 CSC's if there's a conflict?? ie you have 2x ID2??
Maybe you are lucky, and there's no duplicate on the can-bus.
best regards,
Carel
Hi, right now I'm changing the battery in my i3 and I want to build a solar system. Can I ask you for information?
So time for a little follow up.
First EM24 MUST have firmware update, otherwise their interface restarts frequently leaving the system unable to track reasonably.
Once i updated the EM24 version (i found the right version via victrons page, couldnt locate via EM24 manufacturers page.)
community.victronenergy.com
Thanks to the clever people whome figured this out.
Also some minor observations.
If you are on grid DO NOT pull power to 12v converter directly from battery. It will draw battery below victron minimum values and an alarm will then sound. This is a very annoying problem in winter time. I plan on changing this to a 220v -> 12v deal instead. If you are off grid, you can do it but observe the problem here. Personally i would most likely let controller run of a support/sacrificial 12v battery. I would hate to have the batteries go below victron minimum charge level. You may want to put in a 12v -> 12v if you want to ensure stable 12v. But i believe that the components will run in a fairly wide voltage range.
Other than that my setup is running well and cleanly. Only really annoying problem, is that the electrician used the wrong cable size and 220v safety fuse, so i can only run the system at 2500watts (both ways). This sucks and i will have it rectified when i have some more work for the electrician.
In the last three months (march, april, june) i have managed to have a power consumption of just 20kwh per month
this includes a normal house consumption of 600-800kwh + typically 200-300kwh charge for electrical car. The consumption has only happened because the draw especially from the car is above what the victron and growatt inverters can handle together. Ie let car charge 11kwh in partially cloudy days. I only have about 6000w available. Also some house appliances can peak the house especially if i have car at minimum charge (4kwh).
Important note the victron works well, but it is NOISY. I have it in my garage sharing a wall with the house and i can hear the hum through the wall. and this is at about half the power that the victron is rated at.
Carel is the go to guy here, im just a random guy with software and electronics interests.
First EM24 MUST have firmware update, otherwise their interface restarts frequently leaving the system unable to track reasonably.
Once i updated the EM24 version (i found the right version via victrons page, couldnt locate via EM24 manufacturers page.)
EM24 Ethernet - lockup issue - Victron Community
Also some minor observations.
If you are on grid DO NOT pull power to 12v converter directly from battery. It will draw battery below victron minimum values and an alarm will then sound. This is a very annoying problem in winter time. I plan on changing this to a 220v -> 12v deal instead. If you are off grid, you can do it but observe the problem here. Personally i would most likely let controller run of a support/sacrificial 12v battery. I would hate to have the batteries go below victron minimum charge level. You may want to put in a 12v -> 12v if you want to ensure stable 12v. But i believe that the components will run in a fairly wide voltage range.
Other than that my setup is running well and cleanly. Only really annoying problem, is that the electrician used the wrong cable size and 220v safety fuse, so i can only run the system at 2500watts (both ways). This sucks and i will have it rectified when i have some more work for the electrician.
In the last three months (march, april, june) i have managed to have a power consumption of just 20kwh per month
this includes a normal house consumption of 600-800kwh + typically 200-300kwh charge for electrical car. The consumption has only happened because the draw especially from the car is above what the victron and growatt inverters can handle together. Ie let car charge 11kwh in partially cloudy days. I only have about 6000w available. Also some house appliances can peak the house especially if i have car at minimum charge (4kwh).Important note the victron works well, but it is NOISY. I have it in my garage sharing a wall with the house and i can hear the hum through the wall. and this is at about half the power that the victron is rated at.
Carel is the go to guy here, im just a random guy with software and electronics interests.
Another little note, im working (slowly) on a rs485 bridge/gateway.
The two systems growatt and victron fights a bit, and that means i can hear the victron working at night when the growatt is running low. (recharging the growatt system).
Right now i have two different consumption meters (both phase 3) right after each other, thereby essentially reporting the same number to the two inverters/chargers.
I would like to have one meter (that i would care to read), and then in controlled manor share information with chargers. Ie priority to one charger up to some amount or a period of surplus power. Thereby the chargers would fight, one could become my primary and the other secondary in a controller manor.
In the summertime this doesnt matter, since both batteries typcially are charged at around 11-12 mid day. It is only the discharge that seems to not work optimally.
Dont expect this to be completed in the next 6 months at least, it is a hobby item. If you know of some software that can do this on ie a rasberry pi or a arduino device, i will park my project and get it.
The main consists of two parts. Different RS485 (serial + tcp(modbus)), and different protocols/registers. And my idea is to make it sort of plugin able to add a new protocol. That would allow others to fairly easy add their meter / inverters protocol.
It would also allow you to buy another meter than the one the manufacturer recommended. (remember the issues with the EM24 that almost made me jump out the window... i live at ground floor, so risk i minimal ).
In regards to building your own device:
Research, fuses EVERY where, make sure cable with and fuse size makes sense. Also if possible place away from things you hold dear, i'm not sure insurance will love the concept of a homemade battery. I don't know much about the details about any other setup, but there are alot of youtbe videos about the battery construction and it seems the biggest problem, is figuring out min + max voltages that are well within safe range.
Finally i'm dreaming about a Nissan Leaf battery they seem to be running at around 30kwh which would cover more than one days consumption.
I would most likely build it of the same type of components, but even though Carel WARNED ME, im still intrigued by using the battery in a high voltage scenario, since the battery could remain closed, and potential use its own bms, maybe supported by SimpBMS, since it handles communication to the Victron.
I would also try and locate enough means to run multiple victrons to try and duck the noise issue. It also seems that the components become very expensive when the Amps rise above a certain point.
Funny detail... i still havent managed to figure out how much power is available to me in the i3 battery, it has a nominal value of around 17-20kwh i think, and im guessing im seeing somewhere in the 10-15 kwh range.
Another thing... for once im looking forward to my car going to the scrap heap, because im going to pinch the battery and have a looot of kwhs available to me then
Take care all, im sorry i dont frequent this site more often, but life keeps me pretty busy.
The two systems growatt and victron fights a bit, and that means i can hear the victron working at night when the growatt is running low. (recharging the growatt system).
Right now i have two different consumption meters (both phase 3) right after each other, thereby essentially reporting the same number to the two inverters/chargers.
I would like to have one meter (that i would care to read), and then in controlled manor share information with chargers. Ie priority to one charger up to some amount or a period of surplus power. Thereby the chargers would fight, one could become my primary and the other secondary in a controller manor.
In the summertime this doesnt matter, since both batteries typcially are charged at around 11-12 mid day. It is only the discharge that seems to not work optimally.
Dont expect this to be completed in the next 6 months at least, it is a hobby item. If you know of some software that can do this on ie a rasberry pi or a arduino device, i will park my project and get it.
The main consists of two parts. Different RS485 (serial + tcp(modbus)), and different protocols/registers. And my idea is to make it sort of plugin able to add a new protocol. That would allow others to fairly easy add their meter / inverters protocol.
It would also allow you to buy another meter than the one the manufacturer recommended. (remember the issues with the EM24 that almost made me jump out the window... i live at ground floor, so risk i minimal
).In regards to building your own device:
Research, fuses EVERY where, make sure cable with and fuse size makes sense. Also if possible place away from things you hold dear, i'm not sure insurance will love the concept of a homemade battery. I don't know much about the details about any other setup, but there are alot of youtbe videos about the battery construction and it seems the biggest problem, is figuring out min + max voltages that are well within safe range.
Finally i'm dreaming about a Nissan Leaf battery they seem to be running at around 30kwh which would cover more than one days consumption.
I would most likely build it of the same type of components, but even though Carel WARNED ME, im still intrigued by using the battery in a high voltage scenario, since the battery could remain closed, and potential use its own bms, maybe supported by SimpBMS, since it handles communication to the Victron.
I would also try and locate enough means to run multiple victrons to try and duck the noise issue. It also seems that the components become very expensive when the Amps rise above a certain point.
Funny detail... i still havent managed to figure out how much power is available to me in the i3 battery, it has a nominal value of around 17-20kwh i think, and im guessing im seeing somewhere in the 10-15 kwh range.
Another thing... for once im looking forward to my car going to the scrap heap, because im going to pinch the battery and have a looot of kwhs available to me then
Take care all, im sorry i dont frequent this site more often, but life keeps me pretty busy.
Hi Carel, I am Waidler and located in the Bavarian Forrest, Germany.
In my BMW I3 I have changed the 48V HV-Modules from 60Ah to 120Ah. A company neary Munich did that for me.
They re-used the CSCs for 120Ah Modules. Though, actually I have 8 Modules 12s Li-Ion with 48V and thinking on a Battery-Storage for my House.
What is missing for the use with SIMP-BMS also are these missing CSCs.
When I buy the available, used ones in the Bay, I can not be sure to mix up the CAN-IDs for these CSCs, right ?
Do you think, I can buy new ones from HUBAUER ?
How are these CAN-IDs per CSC teached into the CSCs, did someone ever investigated on this ?
Sorry for the Wave of Questions.
From your Activities I have got the Impression, you are right deep in !
Kindest Regards,
Waidler (Mr.)
CarelHassink
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Waidler,
perhaps contact me via Facebook
mfg Carel
perhaps contact me via Facebook
mfg Carel
Last edited:
slimf
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- Sep 26, 2017
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- 234
Em24 can be a pain in the arse.
First up - to get it responding again you got to power cycle it (yeah pain)
Then, using the CG software update the firmware - you can get this from the Victron professional website.
Then, you MUST set the EM24 to a static IP that’s outside the DHCP range of your router.
Then cross your fingers, toes and prey to your god and if your lucky and the moons just right it will work.
Once you get it in the right state it will be rock solid.
First up - to get it responding again you got to power cycle it (yeah pain)
Then, using the CG software update the firmware - you can get this from the Victron professional website.
Then, you MUST set the EM24 to a static IP that’s outside the DHCP range of your router.
Then cross your fingers, toes and prey to your god and if your lucky and the moons just right it will work.
Once you get it in the right state it will be rock solid.
slimf: yup but it took me a while to locate all the bits of the puzzle, and understand that it was the "simplest" part that was unstable. i suspected the inverter since it does a bit more complex actions. But no. And then it is not supereasy to locate the firmware either. The producer says you have current version... but a newer exists... yay...
I think the biggest problem was the firmware, also as i remember my electrician put the meter in front of the HPFI (safety switch). So advice... put it AFTER the HPFI, then you can at least restart it by closing all power.
I think the biggest problem was the firmware, also as i remember my electrician put the meter in front of the HPFI (safety switch). So advice... put it AFTER the HPFI, then you can at least restart it by closing all power.
stevelectric
Member
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- Nov 2, 2018
- Messages
- 52
It will probably restart if you disconnect the N line without the need to power down the whole installation... did anyone try?
Nopes. i dont touch wires that are in front of the HPFI. My recommendation would be to have the meters after HPFI, and if i ever have a major change of my electrical board, i will have the electrician change it. Alternatively put a big fat powerswitch in front of it all.
stevelectric
Member
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- Nov 2, 2018
- Messages
- 52
P.S. I tried it and nothing happens. But a kind of reset of the EM24 network interface is possible by changing the ip address or port number on the device using the small joystick.
So a little update.
I had a minor accident with this, more specifically water ingress into the garage where it was located. This caused a short in the kill switch (funny).
It also killed the Victron Smart shunt 500a, but i think it is the same problem since they are mounted vertically above each other. I cannot 100% prove that it was water ingress, it can also have been condensation, we had a series of very cold nights over maybe a month, and it is possible that the garage was hovering just around the 0 deg centigrade, and thereby building up condensation. Since the short is not acceptable in any circumstance, i will be fusing it in both ends and on both wires just as a precaution.
Another detail is that i have not run the battery actively in winter before, i only used it for solar power day distribution. But the spike in charges lead me to configure the battery to be peak shaving (just basic time schedule), so there is a very limited risk that the battery was below 0 degrees centigrades and the inverter tried to force feed it. But as i understand it this should not be a problem. I will however remove the peak shaving, since i had not thought about the ware and tare (spelling) on the battery. I deem it not worth it and will disable scheduled charging over winter.
As a note the BMW part of the main wire seems fine, where as the copper (ish?) wire didn't.
I will now highly recommend that you put a midi fuse inside the battery, since that seems to stay nice and dry. And i will also place one just under the inverter as well. Since i'm currently limited to approx 2500w i will try my luck with a 60amp midi fuse. That should put me at around 2880w, i have bought 60, 80, 100 and 150, since i hope to get the ac cable replaced sometime during the summer. And that will allow the system to run at up to 5000w. I couldn't locate a 125a fuse that i would prefer to cover the 5000w scenario. But i think i will try with the 100a first and see if they blow, and replace with 150 if the 100 does blow in normal usage.
And as stated i will be fusing it inside the battery at the busbar area, and then again very close to (beneath) the inverter). I will also make a basic shield to prevent water getting close to the fuse box beneath the inverter, and the same shielding to the kill switch.
Other than that the system has been working really well. I will be making one more fine tuning of the system:
I will not charge the 48v/12v convert of the battery, but get 12v from mains instead. i have learned that the battery segment pulling the 12v will be pulled askew from the others, making the pack as a hole less efficient. Pulling 12v from mains will also remove issue i have had where the pack falls below acceptable voltage and needs a manually started charge cycle, since no draw is happening (or only very limited). I may still have to do a single winter charging in start january or similar.
I think most people will be better suited with commercially available options even though they are still expensive, they are resell able and will not need to be removed if you sell your house. Having an I3 battery on the wall will be a turnoff for most buyers. (had the house appraised for financing reasons, and the realtor said that it would need to go if in real sales scenario.)
But the system helps me be almost self supplying in summer half year, and it was great fun to build.
I had a minor accident with this, more specifically water ingress into the garage where it was located. This caused a short in the kill switch (funny).
It also killed the Victron Smart shunt 500a, but i think it is the same problem since they are mounted vertically above each other. I cannot 100% prove that it was water ingress, it can also have been condensation, we had a series of very cold nights over maybe a month, and it is possible that the garage was hovering just around the 0 deg centigrade, and thereby building up condensation. Since the short is not acceptable in any circumstance, i will be fusing it in both ends and on both wires just as a precaution.
Another detail is that i have not run the battery actively in winter before, i only used it for solar power day distribution. But the spike in charges lead me to configure the battery to be peak shaving (just basic time schedule), so there is a very limited risk that the battery was below 0 degrees centigrades and the inverter tried to force feed it. But as i understand it this should not be a problem. I will however remove the peak shaving, since i had not thought about the ware and tare (spelling) on the battery. I deem it not worth it and will disable scheduled charging over winter.
As a note the BMW part of the main wire seems fine, where as the copper (ish?) wire didn't.
I will now highly recommend that you put a midi fuse inside the battery, since that seems to stay nice and dry. And i will also place one just under the inverter as well. Since i'm currently limited to approx 2500w i will try my luck with a 60amp midi fuse. That should put me at around 2880w, i have bought 60, 80, 100 and 150, since i hope to get the ac cable replaced sometime during the summer. And that will allow the system to run at up to 5000w. I couldn't locate a 125a fuse that i would prefer to cover the 5000w scenario. But i think i will try with the 100a first and see if they blow, and replace with 150 if the 100 does blow in normal usage.
And as stated i will be fusing it inside the battery at the busbar area, and then again very close to (beneath) the inverter). I will also make a basic shield to prevent water getting close to the fuse box beneath the inverter, and the same shielding to the kill switch.
Other than that the system has been working really well. I will be making one more fine tuning of the system:
I will not charge the 48v/12v convert of the battery, but get 12v from mains instead. i have learned that the battery segment pulling the 12v will be pulled askew from the others, making the pack as a hole less efficient. Pulling 12v from mains will also remove issue i have had where the pack falls below acceptable voltage and needs a manually started charge cycle, since no draw is happening (or only very limited). I may still have to do a single winter charging in start january or similar.
I think most people will be better suited with commercially available options even though they are still expensive, they are resell able and will not need to be removed if you sell your house. Having an I3 battery on the wall will be a turnoff for most buyers. (had the house appraised for financing reasons, and the realtor said that it would need to go if in real sales scenario.)
But the system helps me be almost self supplying in summer half year, and it was great fun to build.
OffGridInTheCity
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- Dec 15, 2018
- Messages
- 3,149
Glad you were able to refurbish things
I agree on you're comment about home resell. Worth thinking about when building a system.
I agree on you're comment about home resell. Worth thinking about when building a system.
Hi all and thanks for letting me enter to this community. I am in Spain with a lot of sunny days, I am excited reading all you did with a bmw i3 battery. This is my dream.
I bought in 2015 a BMW i3 with 60ah battery. I saw this was a very low range. So i waited for more higher bmw batteries as 94 and 120ah.
I bought a 120ah used battery and I did the change. Now I have a 300 kms range but I need to finish the history using the 60ah 22kw battery.
I heared about simpBMS and I found your great tutorial that I want to do too.
I am going to start the installation but I need your help. I am not electrician but I learn all I need. Maybe could you help me to get it?
I have more than 8 modules from others batteries. Is it posssible to use it together? I see you did it by parallel connections by eight.
I bought in 2015 a BMW i3 with 60ah battery. I saw this was a very low range. So i waited for more higher bmw batteries as 94 and 120ah.
I bought a 120ah used battery and I did the change. Now I have a 300 kms range but I need to finish the history using the 60ah 22kw battery.
I heared about simpBMS and I found your great tutorial that I want to do too.
I am going to start the installation but I need your help. I am not electrician but I learn all I need. Maybe could you help me to get it?
I have more than 8 modules from others batteries. Is it posssible to use it together? I see you did it by parallel connections by eight.
I think the simpBMS is happiesst with the standard eight modules. CarrelHassink is one of the people involved with simpBMS and may be able to tell you. I suspect that the simpBMS will go less than eight but not above. If that is true, then i would build it as two seperate setups.
Be aware of my last learning and put fuses just after the buzzbar and preferable also just after the inverter.
If you are not comfortable with electrics you may want to rethink this project. There are high amps that requires correct switches, cable with etc.
You dont NEED to be an electrician but a good understanding of electricity and ciomputers will get you there.
In my country there are regulations for whom is allowed to do what, i'm not aware of the spanish regulations.
I normally dont frequent the forum, just wanted to share my knowledge.
Be aware of my last learning and put fuses just after the buzzbar and preferable also just after the inverter.
If you are not comfortable with electrics you may want to rethink this project. There are high amps that requires correct switches, cable with etc.
You dont NEED to be an electrician but a good understanding of electricity and ciomputers will get you there.
In my country there are regulations for whom is allowed to do what, i'm not aware of the spanish regulations.
I normally dont frequent the forum, just wanted to share my knowledge.
Thanks again for your fast answer. With all your data I can get it. I will do the same as you with 8 modules. It will be possible to upgrade your powerwall with 120ah modules just plug and play?
CarelHassink
Member
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- Oct 21, 2017
- Messages
- 184
Yes ,using the same i3cmu's no problem
