Dala
Member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2018
- Messages
- 414
Made a quick how-to on flashing the software onto the board! (very boring!)
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mH2AjnAjDk
v4.0.0 has been released! This version makes the entire project much more newcomer friendly, massive refactoring has been done to make it easier for beginners. Also some inverter bugfixes, Tesla improvements, and a new Test Mode has been implemented!Release v4.0.0 release · dalathegreat/Battery-Emulator
What's Changed ⚠️ NOTE: Due to the refactoring and addition to new parameters in USER_SETTINGS.h, it is required to start with a fresh user settings file when taking this release into use! ⚠️ The ...github.com
Use a Deye or something else with 20kW available!Hi there Dala, would you have a solution to use this method on a 20kw system, in the UK I have access to the Gen24 but they can't be used in parallel. What would be the simplest way to achieve the 20kw, any advice would be much appreciated.
What you describe is what I have. A completely stock hybrid inverter with smart meter.I am looking at setting it up using your Battery-Emulator system, and thinking about what components I will need. I don't know the terminology for this, but if it is practical what I would like to do is set it up so that I can charge the battery with solar as it is available, then draw on the battery via the inverter to run my house, and then when the battery charge gets low or it can't provide enough current it will draw on the grid in the usual way. So I'm looking to have the inverter provide 120V/60Hz (I'm in Canada) synchronized with the grid and offsetting the load. Is that functionality easy to integrate into the system, or are there additional components I would need to achieve that? I'm guessing there must be someone on the North American power grid who's done this already?
Alternatively if it's too complicated (technically or due to insurance barriers) to do that, I also have a PHEV with a CHAdeMO port and a 12 kWh battery, and am wondering how hard it would be to set up a "solar gas station" and just use it to charge the vehicle instead?
thanks!
Ive been banging on about the issue of electrical protective device on PV systems for some time, but mostly I just meet with a big yawn response, no one want to address the basic issue of fuses, circuit breaker + fault trip logic, circuit isolators (lockable). Here we are dealing with 80kW 400Vdc - that is very scary to me. Notice the OP just sketches in a FUSE as an after thought seems a very mickey mouse attitude.Dala: First, let me say that I think it is great that you are doing this. I spent quite a bit of time looking for people with the ability to do this sort of project, and to find a small development team to handle various aspects of a project. What I encountered is people are just too busy, or there were way too many things that they wanted to attempt at one time. I did learn that there are companies building these devices, such as Nuvation Energy.
The companies I found tend to focus on large projects, and are not really geared for DIY.
That being said, things have changed quickly in my USA Midwest State, (and I feel much more widespread across the US) with the advent of the new 2020 NEC. I've posted numerous times in various forums about how restrictive it has become, with the result being it feels like Al Gores "an inconvenient truth". NEC 2020 has made it nearly impossible in many areas to have a DIY project. But what concerns me more is that insurance companies are dong everything they can to limit their exposure. We are still trying to settle a 3 year old claim regarding wind damage. Last night we had 90 mph winds here. Since we are out shopping for a new insurance company, language about solar, batteries etc is popping up in nearly all of the questionnaires they ask us to fill out about our property.
I have a BMW I3 battery sitting out in the garage, and I'd love to use it in the manner your system proposes to do. I could never get it permitted, and if it was in any way involved in a claim, we would be massively screwed.
I'm wondering it would make sense to start a group with people like yourself, with the express purpose of getting a system that can be "Listed" such as by UL, ETL, etc? This is course would be expensive, but there are people like Nuvation making equipment that is already UL approved. The trick is to make it work with a variety of batteries and inverters.
I hope this isn't rambling too much.
which contactor did you use - please share the details, sources etc. OBTW none of your EBAY links for equipment workToday I tested automated contactor closing/opening via the LilyGo board. This will be much safer compared to the manual way I have been using. With the auto control, the system can decide that it is time to open the contactors on its own, to avoid dangerous over/undercharge situations.
I tested this with solid state relays, that can take the 3.3VDC activation source. I also updated the Wiki page (https://github.com/dalathegreat/BYD...issan-LEAF-battery#prechargecontactor-closing) with info on this, will put some pictures of the final install this week Will be nice to sleep better, knowing that the system can now better act on faults autonomously!
Thanks!What you describe is what I have. A completely stock hybrid inverter with smart meter.
I do not recommend Chademo, the connector itself costs 1400€, for that price you can get so many kWh of energy for stationary use
Start looking for an approved inverter for your area that is on the supported list. I contacted AIMS, and they will add support for the Battery-Emulator in a few weeks!
See the Wiki for more safety info: https://github.com/dalathegreat/BYD-Battery-Emulator-For-Gen24/wiki#what-about-safety-️-ℹ️Ive been banging on about the issue of electrical protective device on PV systems for some time, but mostly I just meet with a big yawn response, no one want to address the basic issue of fuses, circuit breaker + fault trip logic, circuit isolators (lockable). Here we are dealing with 80kW 400Vdc - that is very scary to me. Notice the OP just sketches in a FUSE as an after thought seems a very mickey mouse attitude.
Whut are you on about? I am using fully automatic contactor control with SSR relays. The SSR use a 3VDC activation signal from the board, and is used to turn ON/OFF the contactors via 12V. The contactors are INSIDE the battery. The SSR only handles the 3V->12V control logic. It is all explained on the Github: https://github.com/dalathegreat/BYD...4/wiki/Nissan-LEAF-battery#automatic-control-Any SSR relay will work, that can trigger on 3VDC
IIRC the SSR is for ac current only and switch off on the negative cycle - basic stuff here
Power mosfets dont do the volt levels you are looking at? In ELV<48V systems mosfets are paralleled together and derated to 1/10th of full power. Even this system can have problems with timing as they all have to operate simultaneously to share the load - that doesnt always work with meltdown consequences - its not foolproof.
So what you are saying is you dont have a proper live load disconnect device - your Git link is a diversion.