Dala's Battery-Emulator


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Whut are you on about? I am using fully automatic contactor control with SSR relays. The SSR use a 3VDC activation signal from the board, and is used to turn ON/OFF the contactors via 12V. The contactors are INSIDE the battery. The SSR only handles the 3V->12V control logic. It is all explained on the Github: https://github.com/dalathegreat/BYD...4/wiki/Nissan-LEAF-battery#automatic-control-

For fuse, you can use any style (DIN/fuseLink/ceramic/blade) as long as it is OK for 500VDC, and OK for your countrys electrical legislation. Check with your electrician what they recommend!
Well you didnt say any of this at the start and we cant be mind readers. The Devil is in the detail and I find that most promoters tend to conveniently overlook these vital elements - protective circuit devices for high current ELV MGs (Power Engineers call these Solar dc distribution systems Micro Grids and view them with the same rigour as MV grids - ie create single line diagrams). You are dealing with a large amount of stored energy here comingling with the domestic environments - its not to be dismissed as trivial.

The Public Authorities haven't yet woken up to the dangers yet but the latest amendments to the NEC 2020 art 690 in the States has brought in new design restrictions that have the Solar community in uproar. Notably Insurers are requiring declarations regarding the installation of PV and battery systems and are seeking to ring fence their liability accordingly. This leaves the DIY installer solely responsible and uninsured and this may not be acceptable in concerned neighbourhoods - even though your kit might be confined to a shed in the yard.

The same criteria are applied if you store abnormal amounts of flammable materials in your garage - you will find in the small print that you are obliged to inform the Insurer of any abnormal risk. I cant imagine that the EU is far behind in that mindset.

The bottom line here is that it seems essential to disassemble the Leaf Battery and reconstruct in component parts to make a 48Vdc system along established and auditable guidelines and not just plug the whole chassis into an inverter as you are promoting
 
Well you didnt say any of this at the start and we cant be mind readers. The Devil is in the detail and I find that most promoters tend to conveniently overlook these vital elements - protective circuit devices for high current ELV MGs (Power Engineers call these Solar dc distribution systems Micro Grids and view them with the same rigour as MV grids - ie create single line diagrams). You are dealing with a large amount of stored energy here comingling with the domestic environments - its not to be dismissed as trivial.
@Dala's posts are clear enough to those following along and admiring the DIY research / results he's been sharing for a few years now. If I could afford it / find a supplier of 'whole' EV battery packs, and buy a fork-lift, I'd love to jump in and try to build a multi-EV-battery powerwall.
 
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To extend his own analogy, someone needs to pump the brakes...

Cheers, John
 
How are you charging?
The Hybrid Solar inverter charges the battery. It also discharges when needed

I am pleased to announce that v4.1.0 has now been released! 🥳 Just a bugfix version, but oh so needed!
 
The Hybrid Solar inverter charges the battery. It also discharges when needed

I am pleased to announce that v4.1.0 has now been released! 🥳 Just a bugfix version, but oh so needed!
Can I set the hybrid inverter to charge without a bms? I have a large battery bank of Samsung 94AH nmc configured for 48vdc that I have had for 2 years hooked up to my Outback VFX3648 without bms and have no problems as I never go above 3.92 per cell or draw any heavy amperage. I also have each series fused, (13s/6p)
 
Can I set the hybrid inverter to charge without a bms? I have a large battery bank of Samsung 94AH nmc configured for 48vdc that I have had for 2 years hooked up to my Outback VFX3648 without bms and have no problems as I never go above 3.92 per cell or draw any heavy amperage. I also have each series fused, (13s/6p)
No this project is for safe use of complete EV packs as-is. Complete packs, not custom, and no 48V support. This is for 300-400V batteries.
 
Oh, if I sold my whole unit and went with your design, what would be the least expensive inverter?. I live in Alaska and have 15KW of panels, but really only get about 12KW. There is a place in Anchorage that recycles cars and they have EV batteries. Is there a particular EV I should ask for? I am hoping to get at least 50KW for storage.
 
Oh, if I sold my whole unit and went with your design, what would be the least expensive inverter?. I live in Alaska and have 15KW of panels, but really only get about 12KW. There is a place in Anchorage that recycles cars and they have EV batteries. Is there a particular EV I should ask for? I am hoping to get at least 50KW for storage.
All in the Wiki! https://github.com/dalathegreat/BYD-Battery-Emulator-For-Gen24/wiki Pick something available in your area!
 
Good morning, I did check out the inverter list and I am looking at the AIMS PICOGLF30KW300V480VS 200-600V, any suggestions on EV battery sources? Trying to get the best deal money wise as I only get VA disability stipend each month. I live here in Alaska and shipping from Seattle for around 700 lbs. would be around $300 total.
 
Good morning, I did check out the inverter list and I am looking at the AIMS PICOGLF30KW300V480VS 200-600V, any suggestions on EV battery sources? Trying to get the best deal money wise as I only get VA disability stipend each month. I live here in Alaska and shipping from Seattle for around 700 lbs. would be around $300 total.
A lot of it is going to depend on how much you want to spend and what is available. My personal off-grid powerwall is built from two complete Nissan Leaf (first-gen) packs. This was before Dala's tool was available, so mine was reconfigured into a 14s / 48v configuration. It's been working great for a couple of years or so now. The ability to use the packs without reconfiguration is awesome -- if it had existed at the time, and if I'd had a high-voltage inverter, that would have been a no-brainer. It's quite arguably the route I'd go today, but I'm "too far in" to start over.

If I'm not mistaken, I think you said there's a local wrecker that has packs. Go see what he's got already in the warehouse, and then see if any of those are already on the compatibility list for Dala's BMS tool. Your shipping rate isn't too bad -- moving these battery packs can kill you on shipping rates both because of the weight and their classification (no air freight, etc.).

Alaska, right? The other thing you need to think about is that Li-ion batteries cannot be at freezing temperatures during the charge cycle. I may have missed it if you talked about it elsewhere, but you're probably going to need a heated (or at least really well insulated) shed to keep your packs at an acceptable temperature. Not sure how much sunlight you get during the winter months, but even during the summer it could get cold enough depending on your location that you need to watch this.

Cheers, John
 
A lot of it is going to depend on how much you want to spend and what is available. My personal off-grid powerwall is built from two complete Nissan Leaf (first-gen) packs. This was before Dala's tool was available, so mine was reconfigured into a 14s / 48v configuration. It's been working great for a couple of years or so now. The ability to use the packs without reconfiguration is awesome -- if it had existed at the time, and if I'd had a high-voltage inverter, that would have been a no-brainer. It's quite arguably the route I'd go today, but I'm "too far in" to start over.

If I'm not mistaken, I think you said there's a local wrecker that has packs. Go see what he's got already in the warehouse, and then see if any of those are already on the compatibility list for Dala's BMS tool. Your shipping rate isn't too bad -- moving these battery packs can kill you on shipping rates both because of the weight and their classification (no air freight, etc.).

Alaska, right? The other thing you need to think about is that Li-ion batteries cannot be at freezing temperatures during the charge cycle. I may have missed it if you talked about it elsewhere, but you're probably going to need a heated (or at least really well insulated) shed to keep your packs at an acceptable temperature. Not sure how much sunlight you get during the winter months, but even during the summer it could get cold enough depending on your location that you need to watch this.

Cheers, John
Hello, I am most definitely going to have a separate well insulated shed to keep them above freezing, I will be running a duct from the heated shop so that I can keep the battery bank isolated for safety. The auto recycler is unfortunately 800 miles up in Anchorage, he said he would have to go look and see what he has. He was busy and they got burried in snow a week ago, from our short conversation I am guessing he has hybrids mainly and that would mean I need a few, what would you STAY away from other than the Toyotas? I looked at Dala's inverter list, but I only saw 3 phase. I needed 240 split. Plus like yourself I am way vested over five years of slowly being able to buy piece by piece of Outback equipment. (2) VFX3648M, (4) Flexmax60's, 10KW panels and (78) Samsung 94AH NMC. With a Backup system of (2) VFX2812 and (12) 280AH 6VDC GC2 batteries. Good thing I have a great wife of 23 years! All my friends give me crap for spending so much money, they have newer cars I drive a 30 year old truck, I tell them it's NOT about money, it's about peace of mind NOT if, but when the power goes out. So don't come knocking on my door :) So basically I want to build a huge bank 50KW plus that would not be used heavily, the most it would see is our 240 VAC dryer once a week. Lastly which models to avoid?
 
AIMS would be a good choice, I've been in contact with their R&D, and they are working on improving the software so it supports the Battery-Emulator project (via BYD-CAN support).

The Nissan LEAF packs have built in heaters that activate when the temp goes below -17*C. I have mine just sitting outside under a roof. The battery pack temp recently dipped below -10*C without issue. I am curios to see when we approach -25C to -30C territory how they will perform. The amount of energy you can store goes down a bit, so insulating the batteries is beneficial. It is a very interesting thing to follow :)
 
AIMS would be a good choice, I've been in contact with their R&D, and they are working on improving the software so it supports the Battery-Emulator project (via BYD-CAN support).

The Nissan LEAF packs have built in heaters that activate when the temp goes below -17*C. I have mine just sitting outside under a roof. The battery pack temp recently dipped below -10*C without issue. I am curios to see when we approach -25C to -30C territory how they will perform. The amount of energy you can store goes down a bit, so insulating the batteries is beneficial. It is a very interesting thing to follow :)
Right on! I really do like the idea of using the EV battery with it's complete operating system and as you said the heater! I am waiting to hear back from the auto wrecker and will post more then, thank you all for your input!
 
AIMS would be a good choice, I've been in contact with their R&D, and they are working on improving the software so it supports the Battery-Emulator project (via BYD-CAN support).

The Nissan LEAF packs have built in heaters that activate when the temp goes below -17*C. I have mine just sitting outside under a roof. The battery pack temp recently dipped below -10*C without issue. I am curios to see when we approach -25C to -30C territory how they will perform. The amount of energy you can store goes down a bit, so insulating the batteries is beneficial. It is a very interesting thing to follow :)
Just to confirm, those heaters are in all the Nissan Leaf batteries (I have a 2014, 24kWh pack)? Does activation of the heaters by the built-in controller just handle prevention of damage from cold while nothing is happening, or does it warm things up to a temperature where it is safe to charge & discharge the battery? And I assume the heaters are fed from the pack itself, but the automated activation requires the battery controller to be receiving 12V from an external source - is that correct?

Thanks!
 
I am not sure, I never heard back from the auto wrecker. My main goal now is to source a battery. The biggest I can get! :) Any suggestions ? I live in Alaska so I know it will have to ship up on the barge from Seattle. I just can't seem to locate anything other than these small hybrid packs and most people want too much for such a small amount of storage. Plus I really wanted to go the same route as Dala with NO disassembling, BUT! I will if that's how I can get to the ultimate goal of 50+ KW
 
Good day, I am thinking about using my Nissan Leaf for powering the house too, but without taking the leaf apart. I'd like to keep the option to drive it now and then, if possible. Unfortunately there is no bi-directional wallbox available (in Germany) yet. Developments are super slow and as much as I'd like to buy one, as much I doub't we will se a lot of them as long as EV manufacturers reduce/limit their warranty when vehicles are used for V2H/VTG.
So...Is there maybe a way to connect the battery emulator and hybrid converter by using the regular CHAdeMO and Typ1 AC connectors ? Or maybe using the aux port ? I do'nt need more than 6kW for sure.
Txs
 
Version 4.2.0 has now been released! Some really cool new features, WIFI server, OTA updates, double LilyGo hardware at the same time, we got it all! :cool:

 
Version 4.3.0 has now been released! Massive thanks to the Tesla battery owners, that keep reporting bugs and improve the software! 🥳

 
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