dammit JWINYAP(Just What I Need Yet Another Project)

floydR

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Very much in the planning stage.
Thanks ynot, MFB Dan, cak Just what I need. :)
My parents have a dead lawn tractor craftsman LT2000, This model has a belt driven hydrostatic transmission so with a electric motor that is short enough to fit between the input shaft and the seat would work probably would work with along one too i believe that there is enough room between the transmission and seat firewall. have to pull the body of the tractor and see. This option could work for a large tread mill motor. Will have to remove the tractor body to see if what I think will work will actually work.
Many treadmill motors are rated for 90v-130v dc. although I have read they work at lower voltages. I am not comfortable working with high voltage systems (48v)51.8v nominal is about as high as I want to go. So if I were to parallel boost converters susceptibility as https://www.ebay.com/itm/143731395097 or https://www.ebay.com/itm/402823088655? would that let out the magic smoke from the boost converters . I could get the voltage but in order to get the amps needed I would need to parallel several of the converters. Although I could just go with a new motor from https://www.goldenmotor.com/ and motor controller.
Later floyd
 
We all know you just needed another project! :) Go for it @floydR, seems good!

P.S.
What exactly is a "dead lawn tractor craftsman LT2000"?? 😅
 
riding lawn mower
IMG_20210607_112716526.jpg
later floyd
 
You should check out this website.
They sell a kit to swap out the entire transaxle assembly and replace it with a new rear axle and and electric motor for a lawnmower. I felt the kit was way to expensive for me. Expecally when I could compare it to far cheaper units on alibaba but I have not had luck importing something which is that big. I went down that road once and importing directly from another country wasn't something I wanted to deal with.
But the kits I have seen use either 1000watt or 500watt motors. I am looking at a 4kw motor to use my case ingersoll garden tractor. Hydraulic systems have high losses due to fluid energy transfer losses.
I really gave the kits on that site a lot of consideration it would require so much less battery capacity to do the job and so much less power to charge. But I use the hydraulics on my case ingersoll for splitting wood and other things so I kind of want to keep the portable hydraulic pump even if it costs me batteries to have the multipurpose machine.
But I really like the design where you use a 48 volts electric rear axle swap and electric motors on the mower deck and snow blower deck. But the kit from that website is about $1500 and doesn't include batteries. That just seems to close to the cost of a new EV mower which does come with batteries for me to order it.
I am in comparison looking at about $500 for a new 48vdc permanent magnet motor at 4kw. Going this road for me with the batteries my budget is $3000 for my finished project but it will be a mini truck 4wd which I can either put a mower deck on or convert another case ingersoll for the cost of the motor and use the same batteries to mow the lawn. Having 3 parts tractors doesn't hurt there...
So there is the dilemma as I see it the best design that requires less power is cost effective if you live in Asia. Oh those axle kits I found online are marketed for the trikes they use in Asia. I suspect they are geared for a much higher speed but I don't know for sure. That was my other concern short of ordering from the website I posted I couldn't see how to know I got something that matched the application.
I will follow your progress though because I do have much the same issue my gas mower is very old and hanging on by a thread. It is a JD from the 90s that has mowed way more ground than the manufacturer ever intended for it. I have probably 2 acres of fast growing grass.
But my thoughts at the moment are simply that I will trade higher power consumption for cost if I can get a multifunctional machine because I am also in the process of installing solar and the lawn mowing happens in the summer when I will have excess solar capacity.
Wow that got long. Hope it was helpful.
 
Just remembered I have a 48vDC ryobi lawnmower motor sitting in the closet if not powerfull enough for powering the hydrostatic transaxle it should work for the mower blades. I have two of the motors one is still on a mower. I don't know the wattage of the motors only clues are the most it would be is50 15 amp CB x 48v?= 2400 720w? I think they are much smaller maybe 1000w 720w. the motor is heavy 10 lbs 4.8 Kg I tested the motor last night @ 24v and it ran, then tested with the mower @48v nominal it worked mowing the smallback yard self propelled sorta worked. Then I tested in with hoverboard batteries.
I just tested the one in the mower with two 36v hoverboard batteries connected in series. It works although I bypassed the safety switch unintentionally. The motor seemed to work ok at 72v nominal propably close to 80-82v. But it was a very short test once around the small back yard. The self propelled feature actually works. @58v it was barely working. I need a dc amp clamp meter.
I believe the speed control is a mechanical lever that pull the transmission to the rear tightening the belt drive.
I know this isn't about a tractor but it is sort of an EV, Very limited range EV.
later floyd
misread the CB
 
Last edited:
Just remembered I have a 48vDC ryobi lawnmower motor sitting in the closet if not powerfull enough for powering the hydrostatic transaxle it should work for the mower blades. I have two of the motors one is still on a mower. I don't know the wattage of the motors only clues are the most it would be is50 15 amp CB x 48v?= 2400 720w? I think they are much smaller maybe 1000w 720w. the motor is heavy 10 lbs 4.8 Kg I tested the motor last night @ 24v and it ran, then tested with the mower @48v nominal it worked mowing the smallback yard self propelled sorta worked. Then I tested in with hoverboard batteries.
I just tested the one in the mower with two 36v hoverboard batteries connected in series. It works although I bypassed the safety switch unintentionally. The motor seemed to work ok at 72v nominal propably close to 80-82v. But it was a very short test once around the small back yard. The self propelled feature actually works. @58v it was barely working. I need a dc amp clamp meter.
I believe the speed control is a mechanical lever that pull the transmission to the rear tightening the belt drive.
I know this isn't about a tractor but it is sort of an EV, Very limited range EV.
later floyd
misread the CB
The biggest thing to watch for with over voltage on an electric motor would probably be arcing out for insulation failure. Which wil probably happen first with the internal air gaps. Higher voltage will mean lower current to provide the same power to the load. Of course if you put a heavier load on the motor it will draw more power to meet the load at higher voltage. But in general the issue I have run into in industry is people who didn't take the air gap into account when they choose to run something at a higher voltage. It is actually more common that you might think when installing manufacturing equipment in different countries with different standards. I ran into it with a rotary power coupling in the middle of an install in Tiawan of a system that had run for over a year in the USA. It was designed by a different controls engineer and it took me a few minutes to figure out what he had done simply because it wasn't a design choice I would have considered myself on new equipment.
 
The motors I bought Tennant Nobles B10 motor, ELE 24-72VDC 3300 RPM 9.42HP, 35lbs 16kg and an IMPERIAL 36VDC 2000 RPM 2.5HP 70 A PM P66SR381(MARS?) (25lbs 11.35kg) arrived today. One thing I hadn't realizied was that o the Tennant motor the positive connection was broke off. clean to the nut against the motor. Can i use an easy out to remove the broken stud and replace it with another stud? Or will I have to open the motor up to replace it? Anyone Know?

Later floyd
 
Floyd, the positive lead usually connects straight to the brushes, you are going to have to open 'er up to make sure you are connected on the inside.

Or try the mower this way.

Tony.
 
:) like the mower. I did open up the larger of the two late last night, looks to be an easy fix. A new brush carries plate. 4 screw on the back of motor 4 more screw on the carrier plate. or once I have the brush carrier off the motor I should be able to replace the stud. hopefully the brushes still have some life in them i nrrd to open it up again and use the air compressor on the motor to better gauge it.. I believe it is a detuned version of this motengery motor http://motenergy.com/me0709.html the dimensions are spot on. probably wishful thinking. the price for a tennant brand brush carrier in 3 times as much.

Later floyd
 
Tested the motors today at a reduced voltage of 12v Both ran fine Yay!. They are now in the barn next to the mower. Got out there late although it is cool compared to last week was still too warm for me to do any work on the lawn tractor. If i was being paid to work I would have been working. Need to force myself to get up around 5 am and drive there to start working on it around 7am.
Later floyd
 
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