External limiting an GTIL2 SUN-1000G2 with raspberry

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Cheap 4-life

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Btw for accurate monitoring logging with Cts in series or parallel, I wouldn’t use the information off of these inverters. They are cheap things. I use an Iotawatt for monitoring/logging. You could get an emporia but their graphing is no where near as accurate/detailed as Iotawatt
 
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ssarabun

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Aug 7, 2021
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Here I have a test program for you, with which you can test the communication to the inverter.
Hello everybody,
Thank you so much for your example.
I connected the ESP-01 directly (without MAX3232). It works well.
Do you know how to get more information? F.e. which register does contain "Grid Watt" information?
 

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ssarabun

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Attachment official RSS protocol in chinese language (needs to be translate with google to english)
I translated document, did some tests, my summary next:
It's a huge headache. When inverter processes modbus request, it stops production, so you cannot poll the device very often(every 10 seconds), because it can't go to needed performance.
I think registers 109-116 are work, but we can't see values cause inverter stops the work in process request.
 

Wleinert

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Sep 11, 2021
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Last Update:
Reading the Inverter data and setting the output power works (via RS232). Thanks for the fine information in this thread that helped me.


View attachment 19415


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View attachment 8663
Hi, does your solution work til now?
I controlled my SUN1000 GTIL2 by use of a digital potentiometer and a raspberry pi. The solution worked for several month but recently the dPot died and I´m looking for a more stable solution.
regards, Walter
 

Wleinert

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Sorry for writing in german, but the following text is an answer to a private message of member @mondurlauber. He has disabled private messaging, so I can't answer him directly.

I will do an answer here later in english with pictures of my actual solution (digital potentiometer on a Raspberry Zero W)

######################### ATTENTION GERMAN LANGUAGE :) ###################
Hi,
Das mit der 0-2V Regelung war nicht stabil.
Ich hab dann auf "Digitalpoti" umgestellt.

Von Anfang an:
Man muss den Inverter ffnen und intern das Kabel einer der beiden externen Buchsen (internal/external Limiter) umstecken auf den freien 3-Pin Stecker gleich daneben. (Ich schau ob ich noch Bilder habe)
Dann das externe Kabel, da normalerweise zur Messzange geht (mit dem Metall-Schraubstecker dran) abschneiden und ein Poti dran (0-10k).
Jetzt ist "manuelles" Regeln 0-1000Watt mglich.
Da das natrlich nicht von einem Raspberry/Arduino/sonstiges gesteuert werden kann hab ich ein digitales Poti an einem Raspberry Zero W angeschlossen und regle das jetzt so. Geht aber mit Arduino genauso, das Digitale Poti ist ein SPI Gert wo man einfach 0x00 bis 0xFF hinschickt. (echo -ne "\x00" > /dev/spidev0.1)

PMODDPOT heisst das Digitale Poti.
https://www.conrad.at/de/erweiterungsmodul-digilent-410-239-1526982.html
Hallo,

ich schreibe jetzt auch mal in deutsch, weiß aber eh nicht, ob du überhaupt in diesem Forum noch aktiv bist.
Ich hatte auch eine Lösung mit diesem dPot (AD5610) umgesetzt, die auch für einige Monate ganz gut lief. Leider ging das dPot vor einige Tagen kaputt, der Wiper hat wohl keinen Kontakt mehr; vielleicht war der Strom zu hoch.
Hast du deine Lösung mit dem dPot zum Laufen bekommen und funktioniert sie noch immer?
 

BartDP

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Jan 22, 2021
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Hallo,

ich schreibe jetzt auch mal in deutsch, weiß aber eh nicht, ob du überhaupt in diesem Forum noch aktiv bist.
Ich hatte auch eine Lösung mit diesem dPot (AD5610) umgesetzt, die auch für einige Monate ganz gut lief. Leider ging das dPot vor einige Tagen kaputt, der Wiper hat wohl keinen Kontakt mehr; vielleicht war der Strom zu hoch.
Hast du deine Lösung mit dem dPot zum Laufen bekommen und funktioniert sie noch immer?
If the wiper current is the problem, you could use 4 modules at the same time : 2 string parallel from 2 in series.
 

Wleinert

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If the wiper current is the problem, you could use 4 modules at the same time : 2 string parallel from 2 in series.
I‘m not completely sure, if the current was to high. I use a resistor of 110 ohms in series to limit the current. Are you using your described solution, sounds theoretically ok? And when for how much time? I‘m looking for a stable solution.
 

BartDP

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I‘m not completely sure, if the current was to high. I use a resistor of 110 ohms in series to limit the current. Are you using your described solution, sounds theoretically ok? And when for how much time? I‘m looking for a stable solution.
I don't use this myself. But if it worked with one module for a given time, I would suspect it would work longer ( how much is the question ... ) if you split the power generated in the dpot over 4 dpots. I don't directly see a better/other solution ...
 

luckyerik

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Sep 30, 2021
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Hi, my 2kW unit seems to have some "problems". I really need some helps to verify it and identity the possible cause...

Basically, my unit may suddenly shut itself down after outputting 500-600W for around 3hrs. The LCD goes black and a sparkling sound from the AC plug. Not sure it is due to short circuit or due to quick disconnect.
However, it is not completely dead. If I disconnect the AC, wait for few minutes, then reconnect. The inverter LCD will turns on and works again normally, for a few hours.

One of the possible cause I could think of is overheating. Interestingly, the fan on my unit doesn't spin. When the load is over 1kW, it may spins for like a few seconds, then will turns off completely.

When outputting 500W, the fan on my unit is off. After rebooting it from the shutdown, the temperature shown on the LCD is around 50degC, and the casing is relatively warm to the touch.

Is the temperature readings normal?
Is the fans on my unit faulty? Has anyone encountered similar problem?
 

digelectronics12

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Hi, my 2kW unit seems to have some "problems". I really need some helps to verify it and identity the possible cause...

Basically, my unit may suddenly shut itself down after outputting 500-600W for around 3hrs. The LCD goes black and a sparkling sound from the AC plug. Not sure it is due to short circuit or due to quick disconnect.
However, it is not completely dead. If I disconnect the AC, wait for few minutes, then reconnect. The inverter LCD will turns on and works again normally, for a few hours.

One of the possible cause I could think of is overheating. Interestingly, the fan on my unit doesn't spin. When the load is over 1kW, it may spins for like a few seconds, then will turns off completely.

When outputting 500W, the fan on my unit is off. After rebooting it from the shutdown, the temperature shown on the LCD is around 50degC, and the casing is relatively warm to the touch.

Is the temperature readings normal?
Is the fans on my unit faulty? Has anyone encountered similar problem?
I think your guess is right, that it seems like it is over heating. I run mine at around 250watts each and the fans go on and off frequently. Sounds like the issue with the temperature sensor control having some problem. Maybe check if the temperature sensor has any issues like not mounted where it suppose to be or lose wire or etc. If still not sure then definitely return it.
 

luckyerik

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Sep 30, 2021
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I think your guess is right, that it seems like it is over heating. I run mine at around 250watts each and the fans go on and off frequently. Sounds like the issue with the temperature sensor control having some problem. Maybe check if the temperature sensor has any issues like not mounted where it suppose to be or lose wire or etc. If still not sure then definitely return it.
Thanks for your info! I think my issue is (somewhat) solved. Just an update and maybe can help someone if encountered similar issue.

I think the fan controls in my unit is broken or something. Fans are working fine with I powered them externally. I can measure 3V-5V at the fan connectors (with fan unplugged) when the inverter is outputting 500W, but the fan just doesn't spins. Also, i noticed there is a blinking blue LED inside (see attached image), not sure what it means.
1639557271501.jpeg


So i unplugged the fans and powered them externally at 8V using a raspberry pi power supply + boost converter. There are three fans, two 12V fans blowing air into the unit, and a smaller 9V fan to cool the MOSFETs' heat sink. I just remove one of the screw for the 12V fan, and tuck all the wires through it.
1639557249679.png


Tested few days with the fans powered externally, the inverter stays below 40degC, and no longer has the weird shutdown. :):)
 

Cheap 4-life

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Thanks for your info! I think my issue is (somewhat) solved. Just an update and maybe can help someone if encountered similar issue.

I think the fan controls in my unit is broken or something. Fans are working fine with I powered them externally. I can measure 3V-5V at the fan connectors (with fan unplugged) when the inverter is outputting 500W, but the fan just doesn't spins. Also, i noticed there is a blinking blue LED inside (see attached image), not sure what it means.
View attachment 26627

So i unplugged the fans and powered them externally at 8V using a raspberry pi power supply + boost converter. There are three fans, two 12V fans blowing air into the unit, and a smaller 9V fan to cool the MOSFETs' heat sink. I just remove one of the screw for the 12V fan, and tuck all the wires through it.
View attachment 26626

Tested few days with the fans powered externally, the inverter stays below 40degC, and no longer has the weird shutdown. :):)

The fan issues with these inverters is real.. on that Facebook group, I have shown how I fixed mine and others have shown other ways
 
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