Home PowerDrive V2 - Germany ** 50+ kWh ** Big Power ++

I have 3 Different UPS's and they all have floating Neutrals (120V versions) So they cannot be neutral bonded to ground as far as I know. So I decided to go to a inverter Charger unit (pip 2424-HS) Works a treat now
 
I have the PIP working again. Error 09 is fixed.
Have all IGBT and MOSFET and ESD diodes changed and a few more components.

More information can be found at http://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=6007

There have also more photos to the components and repair.


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21700 Cell batteries are being tested.



Let's see what they can do.




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For the opus, I first had to design an adapter.

Is ok as the first version but will work on an improved version.
 
Today the new power lines are finished 25mm and 35mm.
Unfortunately only 35mm fit in the 125A DC fuses.
Would have preferred 50mm but 35mm are absolutely sufficient on the spot.

The whole thing is expanded with a copper distributor rail to 10x5mm which is designed for 230A
and to the batteries there are 2x35mm or 1x50mm via the 160A breaker.


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Nice build. Thanks for sharing. But what is/are "kW/h" ?
Kilowatt per hour? Never heard of such unit.

Kilowatt per hour acutally describes (in a strange way) power.

If you want to express energy (capacity) you need to use Ws or kWh (Wattesconds or kilowatthours).
 
Just a FYI:
Those TOMZN DC breakers have a polarity ( ie. flow direction of electrons matters), thus are theoretically not suitable for use on batteries that can get charged ordischarged (thus the direction of current flow can switch). It's probably ok in this case, considering you're operating at less than 1/10 the rated voltage. In the worst case, the breaker on tripping will not be able to kill the electric arc inside, and start to catastrophically burn/melt. A little demonstration:


PS. DIY (Do-It-Yourself) spricht man"Die, Ei, Wei" aus
 
ajw22 said:
Just a FYI:
Those TOMZN DC breakers have a polarity ( ie. flow direction of electrons matters), thus are theoretically not suitable for use on batteries that can get charged ordischarged (thus the direction of current flow can switch). It's probably ok in this case, considering you're operating at less than 1/10 the rated voltage. In the worst case, the breaker on tripping will not be able to kill the electric arc inside, and start to catastrophically burn/melt. A little demonstration:

Do you have better DC fuses that must have more than 60V for me with about 125A maximum power.
I haven't seen any problems with the TOMZN DC fuses in the forum in the past 2 years.
I have the TOMZN DC TOB1Z-125 C125 (2P 125A DC 600V) On the fuses there is also a file with two tips / thought that there are two way fuses.

Can someone give me an alternative? Which manufacturer would otherwise have the right fuses for me, which one do you have in use. e.g. HBPowerwall

I always charge and discharge two directions with the batteries and the inverter only with the PCM60 charge controller and with the solar modules themselves it is only one direction.
And there I have the Schneider DC fuses with 32A and 64A.
I also had it at the beginning with the transformer and the batteries, but that was just too little to go for full performance.

For information: And lines must fit in with 35mm or AWG2 or AWG1
 
No particular recommendation for breakers from me. But from my understanding, all DC breakers that have marked (+) and (-) terminals are probably not suitable for bi-directional DC current.

So while it may function correctly when the battery short circuits (stopping charger->battery current flow), it may fail when the charger short circuits ( battery->charger flow).
Or vice versa, depending on which device is wired to the top/bottom side of the breaker.
And it may just work fine if the voltage is low enough to not cause any major arcing issues in the first place.
 
ajw22 said:
No particular recommendation for breakers from me. But from my understanding, all DC breakers that have marked (+) and (-) terminals are probably not suitable for bi-directional DC current.

So while it may function correctly when the battery short circuits (stopping charger->battery current flow), it may fail when the charger short circuits ( battery->charger flow).
Or vice versa, depending on which device is wired to the top/bottom side of the breaker.
And it may just work fine if the voltage is low enough to not cause any major arcing issues in the first place.

I can't fully understand what you are saying. In the house electricity network I also have fuses that can do two ways and my car fuses can also do two ways. So far it is unknown to me that fuses only work in one direction.

Maybe others have an opinion about it. Would love to hear that the subject of security is important.

:huh:
 
For homeACcircuits, the arcing-on-tripproblem is very small, because the voltage drops to zero every 100Hz/120Hz, at which point the arcing naturally dies off.

Polarity doesn't matter toDC Fuses - both ends are generally the same design. But beware that fuses also havemaximum voltage ratings, above which arcing can become an issue.


Here is a DC breaker from a very respected manufacturer. "DANGER: Correct voltage polarity required"!
It's got theclearest diagram and markings I could find. Most polarized DC breakers have similar, but far less clear markings.

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My poor attempt at trying to illustrate the problem when connecting a battery with such a breaker. The solar panel was perhaps a poor choice... imagine a charger or a hybrid inverter instead.
Normal operation:

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When there is a short circuit on the battery side, the breaker trips successfully, as it was designed to do. So far so good.

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But when there is a short circuit on the PV(/charger/hybrid inverter) side, things can get ugly. The power is now at the bottom, andcurrentthrough the breakeris now flowing in the wrong direction. It's not designed to trip safely in this configuration, and could start to burning like in the YouTubevideo I posted earlier.

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Here's another video showing the dangers of wiring a polarized DC breaker thewrong way.

Now,personally, I assume that a polarized DC breaker rated for 600V will work correctly bi-directionally when running at less than 60V. But nobody will guarantee that.
 
Nice work
 
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