iCharger X8 Died - Took it apart

ALL NEW - Battery Finder Search for 12/24/36/48v or by capacity www.batteryfinder.net
New & used Batteries, Solar, accessories, LifePo4 cells & more 5% Coupon "Powerwalls" www.batteryhookup.com
kje said:
Is there a way to check the power mosfets?
Click to expand...
Yeah, you can check the continuity between the 3 pins. Just do a search for 'mosfet continuity check' or similar. You may have to desolder them to get accurate readings, but generally you can get an idea while they are in place.

Once you know that, you can just replace them by buying the mosfets separate. That is, as long as other chips didn't get fried. Not likely, but not impossible
 
  • Like
Reactions: kje
Over the last 6 yrs, I've had 2 of these die - I'm on my 3rd one. First one (the 1st post of this thread) was in 2020 and I may have had a hand in it due to shorting the sense leads. The 2nd on died in 2024 - no particular reason.

Use profile: I don't use mine extensively, but mainly to draw down 260ah @ 4.15v packs to 3.7v'ish in preparation for paralleling them into the powerwall. So let's estimate - 130ah/pack discharge * 4 batteries per iCharger = 7280ah of discharge over 42 packs... normal discharge (I don't use regenerative).... and then something goes wrong.

Maybe it's the heat as this is aprox 300-400hrs of discharge at 30a (max non-regenerative) and the fan is going full bore the whole time.

Can't endorse the robustness of iChargers but they are a clever unit with good features and purchasing a new one every 4 yrs has been one of the 'costs of doing DIY batteries' along with many other costs - so it hasn't jumped out as something to get hot about.

In contrast, my OPUSs lasted 10x better? Don't know exactly but significantly better.
 
Last edited:
Oleksii said:
You was just unlucky. Most likely some power mosfet got shorted because of ceramic caps inrush precharge or so.
It likely can be fixed.
Click to expand...
Is this how a power mosfet looks like?
s-l1200.jpg


I can't see a power mosfet like that on the iCharger circuit board?

Screenshot_20250831-122035_YouTube.jpg
 
kje said:
Is this how a power mosfet looks like?
Click to expand...
That is just what they are most commonly look like. You are looking at the wrong side of the board.

However, these ICs are probably the FETs you are looking for:
1756639288993.png


You'll need to take the heatsink off to see them
It's also possible that these are also part of the power circuit:
1756639141301.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: kje
Korishan said:
That is just what they are most commonly look like. You are looking at the wrong side of the board.

However, these ICs are probably the FETs you are looking for:
View attachment 33558

You'll need to take the heatsink off to see them
It's also possible that these are also part of the power circuit:
View attachment 33557
Click to expand...
Thanks. 👍
I've opened it up and found the IC FETs you are talking about.

How can I test without desolder?

20250901_100346.jpg
 
Problem is, if one of them is shorted closed, it will make them all read bad. So first step is test continuity between the pins. If anyone of them shows a short, you'll need to pull them out and test individually.
There's a Diode between 2 of the pins, so you should have continuity in one direction, and not in the other direction. This is usually where the short is at.

However, it might be best to pull them out and replace them all. Because if one went bad, the others could be not far behind. At least they aren't laser cleaned the label.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kje
Korishan said:
Problem is, if one of them is shorted closed, it will make them all read bad. So first step is test continuity between the pins. If anyone of them shows a short, you'll need to pull them out and test individually.
There's a Diode between 2 of the pins, so you should have continuity in one direction, and not in the other direction. This is usually where the short is at.

However, it might be best to pull them out and replace them all. Because if one went bad, the others could be not far behind. At least they aren't laser cleaned the label.
Click to expand...
There was continuity between the red markings in the picture here. Should it be continuity here?
20250901_131602.jpg
 
They are in 3s. Continuity between ICs is normal as they are all connected together through the traces of the PCB.

1756725933294.png

There'll be a diode between Pins 1 & 3. You should get diode continuity between them in one direction (ie, Red Probe on Pin 1) and no connection in the other direction (ie Red Probe on Pin 3)
There will be resistance between Pins 1 & 2, but I'm not sure what that should be without current flowing.
 
Korishan said:
They are in 3s. Continuity between ICs is normal as they are all connected together through the traces of the PCB.

View attachment 33569
There'll be a diode between Pins 1 & 3. You should get diode continuity between them in one direction (ie, Red Probe on Pin 1) and no connection in the other direction (ie Red Probe on Pin 3)
Click to expand...
Should I desolder them from the PCB for this test?
 
to get the best accuracy, yeah. But you should be able to do the Diode test w/o doing that. If one is shorted, you'll know. At that point, start popping them off.
However, if one failed, the others may be damaged or weakened, which would mean replacing all of them anyways. You could also upgrade them when doing the replacement to allow for a higher heat rating and current capabilities.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kje
Korishan said:
to get the best accuracy, yeah. But you should be able to do the Diode test w/o doing that. If one is shorted, you'll know. At that point, start popping them off.
However, if one failed, the others may be damaged or weakened, which would mean replacing all of them anyways. You could also upgrade them when doing the replacement to allow for a higher heat rating and current capabilities.
Click to expand...
Seems like all the IC FETs are working;
There are diode continuity between Pins 1 & 3 in one direction.

Is there anything else I could test before I buy another iCharger S6?
 
Post some pictures of the board from a few different angles. It's possible another part has failed. I would also check continuity between various "bar" components to make sure you get a value of some sort. It's not 100%, but it can help narrow down a blown fuse, perhaps.

Also look at the tops of other ICs and make sure there are no "bubbles" or "bulges" on any of them. If there is, they are toasted
 
Korishan said:
Post some pictures of the board from a few different angles. It's possible another part has failed. I would also check continuity between various "bar" components to make sure you get a value of some sort. It's not 100%, but it can help narrow down a blown fuse, perhaps.

Also look at the tops of other ICs and make sure there are no "bubbles" or "bulges" on any of them. If there is, they are toasted
Click to expand...

20250901_231736.jpg

20250901_231725.jpg

20250901_231816.jpg

20250901_231754.jpg
 
I don't see any wrong with those components. It's also possible the main chips, the STM IC, got friend.

Does it turn on at all? Or just a dead screen and no output?

1756764358448.png

If you have a Serial USB device, you could connect it to these 4 pins and see if the STM is powering up at all and get out. I'm not sure what would be needed to be configured to read the data, though.
 
Korishan said:
I don't see any wrong with those components. It's also possible the main chips, the STM IC, got friend.

Does it turn on at all? Or just a dead screen and no output?

View attachment 33575
If you have a Serial USB device, you could connect it to these 4 pins and see if the STM is powering up at all and get out. I'm not sure what would be needed to be configured to read the data, though.
Click to expand...

Do you mean It's possible the main chips, the STM IC, got fried?

It doesn't turn on at all.
What is a serial usb device and how do I connect it?
 
kje said:
Do you mean It's possible the main chips, the STM IC, got fried?
Click to expand...
Yes

kje said:
What is a serial usb device and how do I connect it?
Click to expand...
If you don't know this bit, probably better to just buy a new unit. As this would be introducing a whole other rabbit hole and gadgets to get. A good device would be at least $10USD if not more, and then all the time trying to figure out how to use it properly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kje
Korishan said:
Yes


If you don't know this bit, probably better to just buy a new unit. As this would be introducing a whole other rabbit hole and gadgets to get. A good device would be at least $10USD if not more, and then all the time trying to figure out how to use it properly.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure I tested the mosfets correctly. What are they called? I tried searching on 2045 J42CG mosfet but couldn't Find Them.

20250902_120840.jpg


What is the PIN configuration? (Source, Ground, Drain)

I tried learning about testing mosfets:
View: https://youtu.be/0uY9gczh2fk?si=bXyXbmhWjuhVECv8
 
I'm considering buying a new iCharger. But I came over a cheaper one, anyone familiar with HOTA H6 Pro?


I'm mostly using it for preparing cellpacks (charging/regenerative discharge) before connecting to the powerwall.

It says
- Up to 700W unique regenerative discharge capability
- External Discharge Current: 1~26A

Does it mean I can use regenerative discharge up to 26A?

If this is correct that's good enough for me and cheaper than the iCharger. 😊
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top