IR Meter Recommendations

[cristian7477]

Yes the YR1035+ is a very good Voltage and IR reader. I own just about every sub $100. 00 IR meter from the humble YR1030 (which built my first 14s80p battery) to my favorite the RC3563.
If you read the complete thread I highly recommend the cell holders to measure the cell with. The probes no matter how you use them are clumsy to use for the 18650. You need to use 2 hands (duh) and you have to memorize the readings if you are going to record the results in a spreadsheet.
So unless you have someone to enter the numbers or have a photographic memory I ended up doing the measurement twice once for Voltage and once for IR. The cell holder will keep the measurement and it is very easy to copy both numbers. The RC3563 with the cell holder, the USB interface with a bit of py and VB code this process can be automated.

IR Meter Recommendations

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good meter to check IR (Internal Resistance) of various battery types? I haven't checked this in the past as the testers I use (Opus) aren't very accurate. There have been a lot of requests to test this in some of my videos, so I'd like to start doing so...

secondlifestorage.com

IR Meter Recommendations

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good meter to check IR (Internal Resistance) of various battery types? I haven't checked this in the past as the testers I use (Opus) aren't very accurate. There have been a lot of requests to test this in some of my videos, so I'd like to start doing so...

secondlifestorage.com

The probes on my YR1030 which were chintzy at best but did last and are still useful, Your leads are much better encased in plastic rather than shrink wrap. Still my recommendation is the cell holder.

Wolf
View attachment 26558

I really appreciate your enthusiasm and dedication to the testers, I wanted to inform you so that you can expand your collection that BRT808 came out at the end of last year and now the newest thing is YK-VR1220H since it incorporates two more buttons and measures up to 120V

I hope you can acquire them and put them to the test ✌

 

[2Lime]

Christian7477

now the newest thing is YK-VR1220H since it incorporates two more buttons and measures up to 120V

Hey, I was just about to buy a RC3563, and I get to the end of this thread and see the YK-VR1220H mentioned which seems to be the same thing with a few more features for the same price (or slightly cheaper). @Wolf do you think that's a good choice - or would you suggest the tried and true? I did cobble together my own 1kHz 4 wire AC IR tester (see photo) but it uses two multimeters and it's kind of a pain to use (I have to divide two numbers for each cell I test - lol - you mean I have to do math?) and the battery holders that are available look very nice (my finger tips are getting dented...).

 

[Dr. Dickie]

I will say I just recently tried to measure some very low IR on some LiFePO4 cells (0.16 mOhms) and while the 1030 handled it no problem, the 3563 did NOT like it at all. It just kept bouncing around all over the place (all below 0.25 mOhms).

 

[Wolf]

@Wolf do you think that's a good choice - or would you suggest the tried and true?

I would stick either with the YR1035+ or the RC3563. There is no need for the additional options and it just clutters up the interface.
The one thing I like about the RC3563 is the USB-to-UART Bridge Controller interface. You can also hack the YR1030/35 by adding a CP2102 chip to the main board. I use it to automatically enter the Voltage and IR straight into my excel sheets.

I will say I just recently tried to measure some very low IR on some LiFePO4 cells (0.16 mOhms) and while the 1030 handled it no problem, the 3563 did NOT like it at all. It just kept bouncing around all over the place (all below 0.25 mOhms).

Hm interesting. Although on the LiFePO4 I am assuming you are measuring 16mΩ did you use the Auto setting on the RC3563?
I had absolutely no problems with at least my RC3563 measuring a 10mΩ reference resistor and it was rock solid. 9.926mΩ
Also testing just resistance between solder/cell holder/busbar 0.946mΩ. Also just a small strip of copper wire 0.069mΩ all rock solid.
Not saying you are not experiencing an issue just curious as to why. Maybe its the difference between the YR1035 using relays to switch modes and the RC3563 using electronics/mosfets rather than mechanical. IDK. I have some LiFePO4 cylindrical cells (A123) I can check just to see.
It of course goes without saying that I have tested the other mΩ meters I have esp the YR1030/ YR1035 etc.

Wolf

 

[Dr. Dickie]

I would stick either with the YR1035+ or the RC3563. There is no need for the additional options and it just clutters up the interface.
The one thing I like about the RC3563 is the USB-to-UART Bridge Controller interface. You can also hack the YR1030/35 by adding a CP2102 chip to the main board. I use it to automatically enter the Voltage and IR straight into my excel sheets.

Hm interesting. Although on the LiFePO4 I am assuming you are measuring 16mΩ did you use the Auto setting on the RC3563?
I had absolutely no problems with at least my RC3563 measuring a 10mΩ reference resistor and it was rock solid. 9.926mΩ
Also testing just resistance between solder/cell holder/busbar 0.946mΩ. Also just a small strip of copper wire 0.069mΩ all rock solid.
Not saying you are not experiencing an issue just curious as to why. Maybe its the difference between the YR1035 using relays to switch modes and the RC3563 using electronics/mosfets rather than mechanical. IDK. I have some LiFePO4 cylindrical cells (A123) I can check just to see.
It of course goes without saying that I have tested the other mΩ meters I have esp the YR1030/ YR1035 etc.

Wolf

View attachment 27122View attachment 27125View attachment 27126
View attachment 27129

Not 16 mOhms, it was 0.16 mOhms.
I think that is just too low for the R 3563

 

[Wolf]

Not 16 mOhms, it was 0.16 mOhms.
I think that is just too low for the R 3563

I do stand corrected 0.16mΩ Nice!
But as stated above ^^^
Also just a small strip of copper wire 0.069mΩ all rock solid.
Which is 0.069mΩ well below 0.16 mΩ


So again not sure what is happening with your RC3563 but in my case it reads low mΩ just fine.
Again not saying your RC3563 is not happy with this low of an ohmage and I certainly don't have as much experience with ELO (Extreme Low Ohmage) nor the Electric Light Orchestra as you have with the LiFePO4 cells.
According to the RC3563 specs it should measure Resistance: from 0.001mΩ ~ 200Ω and they are of course just specs from china which we all must take with a grain of salt.
So in the long run I suppose having an YR1035+ and a RC3563 is a given. Although now with the help and guidance of @Oleksii I have the YR1035+ talking to my PC and can also import that data to excel.
For standard 18650 Li-Ion harvesting I still stand by the RC3563 as my favorite, and with the CP2102 chip mod on the YR1035+ a very close second.

Wolf

 

[Dr. Dickie]

I do stand corrected 0.16mΩ Nice!
But as stated above ^^^
Also just a small strip of copper wire 0.069mΩ all rock solid.
Which is 0.069mΩ well below 0.16 mΩ
View attachment 27148

So again not sure what is happening with your RC3563 but in my case it reads low mΩ just fine.
Again not saying your RC3563 is not happy with this low of an ohmage and I certainly don't have as much experience with ELO (Extreme Low Ohmage) nor the Electric Light Orchestra as you have with the LiFePO4 cells.
According to the RC3563 specs it should measure Resistance: from 0.001mΩ ~ 200Ω and they are of course just specs from china which we all must take with a grain of salt.
So in the long run I suppose having an YR1035+ and a RC3563 is a given. Although now with the help and guidance of @Oleksii I have the YR1035+ talking to my PC and can also import that data to excel.
For standard 18650 Li-Ion harvesting I still stand by the RC3563 as my favorite, and with the CP2102 chip mod on the YR1035+ a very close second.

Wolf

Perhaps mine was just weird. Since I have two RC3563 and YR1035+s. So I got covered whatever I need.

 

[floydR]

Low battery in the RC3563? I have found when The battery gets low in my multimeters, or YR10330+ the meter readings swing wildly.
later floyd

 

[Stingray]

RC3563 is not accurate as 1035+ or Er-D testers
and is not possible to calibrate it well.
just see test of voltage

 

[Stingray]

and also measurement of reference voltages
RC3563 is not accurate as even cheap 15$ multimeters
I have just bought it from ali for relatively big price with premium leads and very disappointed
Er-D tester was cheaper and more accurate but just up to 30V

 

[Wolf]

RC3563 is not accurate as 1035+

Looking at your sheet I was curious as I kind of like this (RC3563) tester. Also you mention the 1035+ I am assuming you mean the YR1035+.
Odd that you didn't show the results of the YR1035+on your sheet. So I did a side by side voltage comparison of my RC3563, YR1035+ and Fluke 8808A powering a copper busbar with my GPS3303 at different voltages. Using the Fluke as the reference I set some voltages and compared them.
Considering my initial measurements for recommendation of the RC3563 where in the 2V to 4.2V range to test 18650 cells and the meter was reasonably accurate enough for a good price. It also was good at IR accuracy. Additionally the main benefit for me was I was able to interface it with my PC and import the V and IR directly into excel which the YR1035+ couldn't do. (Although with adding a CP2102 usb to uart chip to the YR1035+and a bit of code this was also accomplished.)
In your case I do not know what to say other than you may have gotten a faulty unit. Just out of curiosity I checked my RC3563 into the higher voltages as this is where you seem to have the largest divergence and I found nothing really significant.
Pricewise your Fluke 289 is in the same ballpark as my bench 8808A and we are comparing known good DMMs against a sub $100 meter that is made in China.
I'm not sure what you payed for the RC3563 but it should not have been more than $80 with all the high end probes.
Below is my tests and my findings of the RC3563 (at least mine) maximum deviation -0.16%
Wolf

 

[Stingray]

thank you! I do-not have YR1035 now (sold recently and ordered RC3563), but I have now ER-tester (ER-D) with color display and it calibrated without problem and accurate as Fluke 289.
my RC3563 has some accuracy issues, the bigger deviation around 20V.
And the problem is - it is not possible to calibrate my RC3563 well - If I calibrated to 20-30V - than 50-100V will be very inaccurate, if calibrate to 60 V - than 20 and 100 will be not accurate. And similar story for 0-20V calibration.
P.S. based on your pictures 1035+ is close to Fluke than RC3563 but deviation is not so big as my. MAX0,16% is very well.

is it possible to fix this accuracy issue? may be check some resistors on the pcb and replace for 0,1% accuracy or something else

 

[100kwh-hunter]

yr1035......all you want...

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003239390697.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.175.5dfe1802OfvkrD

Dont thank me....thank @Wolf

 

[Stingray]

yr1035......all you want.

From the reviews, most of the yr1035s are now with locked calibration mode.
I ordered YK-VR1220H and will try to sell RC3563, due to bad accuracy

 

[Wolf]

I ordered YK-VR1220H

So will I and add another IR meter to my arsenal.
Wolf

 

[100kwh-hunter]

So will I and add another IR meter to my arsenal.
Wolf

It is nice to have a hobby, but the crown to your work?
When you are going to build a perfect IR meter yourself that can calibrate all IR meters: THE WOLF METER.
Make an account on ali amazone ect....you will be rich.
i buy one for sure.

With best regards Igor

 

[Wolf]

All right the YK-VR1220H came in today and I gave it a try.

Here are the Voltage results of my 7 IR Meters. You look at the pictures and make your own judgement.
Remember I am testing cells at a 1.5V to 4.2V range and really never go any higher than that.
2.5051V


5.0059 v


14.0065V


Wolf

 

[100kwh-hunter]

WOW just WOW...
I assume you calibrate them all before making pictures. (retorical question)

So I think the yr103+'s are the most accurate.
But If you have "a" meter and you stick with that one, and dont care about 0,001v you will be happy?

Knowing you, you also recorded the temp of your shed.
Oke, if you can make new pictures, with the same settings/setup and v, i would wonder if you will get the same results, and what i also would do is, redo the test with 5C higher and lower, with all the meters full charged.
But that would be me.

Its really funny to see the deviations between them, on the high and low end.

With kind regards Igor

 

[Wolf]

I assume you calibrate them all before making pictures. (rhetorical question)

Actually no but it is a good question. I suppose I could do that. But I wanted this to be an out of the box test.
Also most people wont have a reference voltage supply that is accurate to at least 0.001V to calibrate by.
Having 7 testers is more or less like a guy having 7 watches on his wrist, he never really knows what the exact time is.
So as far as I am concerned and in my case I use the RC3563. Reason being I can import the values directly into my excel sheets.
It also comes with a very nice holder and it is accurate enough for me to make a go or no go judgment on my cells. No need to second guess with another meter/watch.

test with 5C higher and lower

Since AC is running in my testing area and maintaining 76°F/24.5°C I'll pass on the ± 5°C for now

Wolf

 

[Korishan]

But If you have "a" meter and you stick with that one, and dont care about 0,001v you will be happy?

Pretty much. If you use the meter as a guideline to base all the other cells off of, then you can pretty sure it's accurate enough.

If you group all your 40-50 Ohm cells together, for instance, it doesn't matter if the meter reads 5-Ohms higher than another meter, as long as you use the same meter to do all your testing.
If another meter reads 5 lower, then you can have an issue with cross values. So if you do happen to do calibration, match all the meters to each other, and you'll have a good baseline.

Hopefully you have a spare or two meters that have been calibrated to the first one you've started doing readings on, so that if the first one dies, you have a reliable backup that won't skew the results.

This is of course not for use in professional applications where 0.001 accuracy is required compared to the national standard