LG LGDAS31865 Cell Specifications

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TheBatteries

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Warning: The information in this thread was obtained from various sources on the Internet, including any datasheets linked below, and is provided for reference only. It is not guaranteed to be accurate. To prevent fire or personal injury, never charge or discharge a cell before verifying the information yourself using the original specifications sheet provided by the manufacturer.

Brand:LG
Model:LGDAS31865 (ICR18650S3)
Capacity:2200mAh Rated
Voltage:3.60V Nominal
Charging:4.20V Maximum
1075mA Standard
2150mA Maximum
Discharging:3.00V Cutoff
430mA Standard
3225mA Maximum
Description:Blue Cell Wrapper
White Insulator Ring
18650 Form Factor


Data References:
http://www.meircell.co.il/files/LG ICR18650S3.pdf

Pictures:

image_pdrunz.jpg

image_smmfcn.jpg

image_ygywkn.jpg

image_bnmijw.jpg
 

ramdileo

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Joined
Apr 20, 2019
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7
These cells are really good. ;)
I used them between 4.25v to 2.88v *
without loss of performance.. or loss of work time between recarges.. (that inoticed at least)
* 2.88v Voltage trigger of the Voltage detector MicroChip TC54 IC

But this cell's have (to my point of view) a great weakness...
some kind of "bimetal fuse" (I think)

When you exceed his amper peak capacity.. for too long..
you hear a very audible "snap" (similar to when you broke a pencil)
and the cell dies completely .. Voltage 0 .. even when a second before you have 4 volt's or more..

I recommend use this ones only for constant consumption .. electronic consumption .. resistive consumption..
i test this ones with a wire resistor.. 1.6Amp of consumption .. and they are fine..
barely warm when it goes under 3.5volts...

I do not recommend using it with a device that produces consumption peaks .. such as motor..
...
Greetings from Argentina... Ramidileo.sys
 

Generic

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Oct 23, 2018
Messages
217
What you are hearing is the CID pop, effectively creating a gap between the positive cap and the positive electrode of the cell. It's not a weakness, it's actually quite beneficial in that the cell cuts power before it can reach pressures that will make it explode or go into thermal runaway. The CID can be reset, but the cell has likely been damaged permanently and the CID may not trigger in a future high pressure event.
 

ramdileo

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Apr 20, 2019
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Dallski said:
What you are hearing is the CID pop, effectively creating a gap between the positive cap and the positive electrode of the cell. It's not a weakness, it's actually quite beneficial in that the cell cuts power before it can reach pressures that will make it explode or go into thermal runaway. The CID can be reset, but the cell has likely been damaged permanently and the CID may not trigger in a future high pressure event.

thanksDallski...
CID Current Interruptor Device... right?
I knew was something there... I just did not know his name .. ;)

"The CID can be reset..."
any good video or tutorial ofhowto do that?? :s

-----
added 41 minutes later...

what bothers me.. is that sometimes you hear them snap..
and they are even hot.. barely warm..
and on the same task .. with the same motor or tool.. other cells like Lishen LS or Shenzhen BAK do not have any problem...
-----
 

Generic

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Oct 23, 2018
Messages
217
Yes, Current Interruptor Device. HBPowerwall (this forum's creator) had a video about resetting CIDs, it's on youtube

These LG cells are "the bottom of the barrel" offering from LG. They are extremebudget cells to keep the laptop battery manufacturers from going theChinese route. They are only rated for 300 cycles, and maximum discharge is 1.5C. Most decent cells that LG and the other name brand manufacturers produce will do at least 2C and will be rated for 500 cycles. In my testing of these cells, I have done 200 cycles of this cell and have only experienced 5.5% degradation, so they are not that bad. But do not use them for any high current applications.
 

Niqyek

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Oct 13, 2019
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I apologize if I'm posting this in the wrong place..it is not my intention to hijack this thread.

Hi...I stumbled upon this forum via a google search.
I'm trying to repair a product called a "HyperJuice" external laptop / tablet battery made by a company called Sanho
I dissassembled the device and I found 12 of these LG 18650 batteries
I'm not an expert on this stuff, I'm more of an IT / compsci guy...but I know my way around a multimeter.

See picbelow --

image_gkovdw.jpg

If anyone can like...idk offer some suggestions on what to test and what to look for,in regards to if there are 1 or more batteries in this circuit that have died and need to be replaced,I'd be eternally grateful. I have a multimeter that does DC.

Here are the values that I am getting when I put one of the multimeter leads on the far right black wire end and the other on the board pin from left to right

1 5.73 V(labeled B3+)
2 5.73 V(labeled B3+)
3 3.50 V(labeled B2+)
4 1.78 V(labeled B1+)

The rest all read 0

I think maybe the problem is not with the batteries :| Oh well
 

reckless

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Oct 27, 2019
Messages
2
ramdileo said:
When you exceed his amper peak capacity.. for too long..
you hear a very audible "snap" (similar to when you broke a pencil)
and the cell dies completely .. Voltage 0 .. even when a second before you have 4 volt's or more..


By how much did you exceed it's current rating? Would it be safe to pull 3.5Amps out of them?


Niqyek said:
If anyone can like...idk offer some suggestions on what to test and what to look for,in regards to if there are 1 or more batteries in this circuit that have died and need to be replaced,I'd be eternally grateful. I have a multimeter that does DC.

Here are the values that I am getting when I put one of the multimeter leads on the far right black wire end and the other on the board pin from left to right

1 5.73 W (labeled B3+)
2 5.73 W (labeled B3+)
3 3.50 W (labeled B2+)
4 1.78 W (labeled B1+)

I seems like you don't even know how to properly use a multimeter. It does not measure W(Watts). I suggest you to tear them apart and measure them one by one.
 

Niqyek

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Oct 13, 2019
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You're absolutely right reckless --my bad, I meant Volts
I drew this diagram of the circuit


image_vjvmez.jpg


Anyway...I managed to revive this,by charging the segments individually with a nitecore charger that I use for my vape batteries
I did each segment of four for about 4 hours with that charger, and the next day I plugged the controller board back in

The controller board was then able to turn on andtake it the rest of the way up to 96% using its AC adapter

Here's the conundrum I'm in now though...I'd like to replace these batteries (all of them, might as well)and get new ones and use this again when I travel to power my laptop & phone

However the batteries areall welded together

I can get used batteries that are tested andsimilar to these for cheap (actually from site from an ad on this forum, thanks!), but they don't come with tabs welded to them or wires on the terminals ... I see there are some eBay sellers who do sell batteries with tabs welded on the terminals, but they're way more expensive...like wayyyyyy more. And I need 12 of them.

I see there are some DIY solutions for people who make their own bike batteries, and they look pretty neat, but none of them that I've seenwillwork, the case is too small

Here's what it looks like:

image_skxqoy.jpg

Any ideas?
I suppose at the end of the day I could just use electrical tape and tape some copper wires to the terminals of each battery...but that's not very elegant :|
 

reckless

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Oct 27, 2019
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Niqyek said:
You're absolutely right reckless --my bad, I meant Volts
I drew this diagram of the circuit


image_vjvmez.jpg

However the batteries areall welded together
Any ideas?
I suppose at the end of the day I could just use electrical tape and tape some copper wires to the terminals of each battery...but that's not very elegant :|

Tear appart the nickel weldings and solder some copper wires (nickel strips and point welder would be the best but I assume you don't have access to that). Just make sure that you use batteries of the same type and charge them at the same voltage before assembly. I'd rather not use tape but you can give it a try if you don't have tin or soldering iron.
 

Minor

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Mar 22, 2020
Messages
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Maybe someone will be useful
6 cells 2009 m.d., 3 pairs - I did not separate them. iMAX B6
Initial voltage: 2,3 V

Sequential testing each pair:
1. starting circle: charge CC-CV (1A, 4,20V; further similarly) - pause 22 days - discharge (1A, 3,00V);
2. capacity testing: charge (1A) - discharge (1A) - storage (1A);

Results:
capacity -4180-4240mAh;
efficiency - 0,90-0,91;
residual capacity - 0,96;

Resume: very good cells
smile.png
 

Roz_in

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Jun 9, 2020
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I have 6 cells. 2009 model. From a lap battery pack. Its been 10 years and while charging lap says battery can't be charged.

Is there any way to revive them? Restore their life?
 

Minor

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Mar 22, 2020
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Roz_in said:
Is there any way to revive them? Restore their life?
Battery - most likely not (controller is blocked).
Cells - most likely yes. At least some of them are probably goodand can be used.
They must be removed from the battery and individually charged.
If there is no charger or if the charger refuses to charge (residual voltage less than 2.5 V), you can use the old MP3-player or eBook for this (those that I have are charged from 0 V and can even charge inversely).
 

hameringnail12

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Jul 12, 2020
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hello need some advise. i want to make a powerwall with these cells (lgdas1865) for offgrid.i have about 1000 cells, but i read they are only good for 500 cycles, so if i cycle them once a day they would only last about 2 years. so if thats true that it would be cheaper to buy golfcart batterys because they last 5 to 10 years......

please help
thanks in advance
 

gauss163

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Jun 28, 2020
Messages
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^^^ Cycle life depends on many factors, including depth/height/location of discharge, (dis)charge rates, average temps, etc. There can be 10x difference in life by optimizing to avoid major causes ofdegradation. To evaluate therelevancy of saidclaim of 500 cycles lifetime you need to know how it was derived (do you have a link?). If it is from a datasheet then you need to look at the parameters they used during (accelerated) life testing in order to determine how closely they match your intended usage.

Btw, when comparing lifetime claims be careful not tocompareapples vs. oranges. For example, if yourdischarge cyclesuse only50% capacitythen that is equivalent to half ofa full cycle. In order to properly compare cycle lifetime tests using different depths ofdischarge weneed to normalize them to use the same units, e.g. convert all toequivalent full cycles, or analogous methods, e.g.compare cumulative (total)energy delivered over the entire lifetime of the battery.
 

hameringnail12

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Jul 12, 2020
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i found this link (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_pDil2dkRPTTXIxRi1kenRKY2s/view)

so if i needed them to last 2000+ cycles at what voltage do i need to set?
temp may be 42C highest and 0C (summer, winter) they will be in a steal box outside.
discharge rate max 2A

and after the life cycle it still has 80% capacity correct?

i'll ask my question in a diferent way, example: my house uses 17kwh per day i want to go offgrid and use the grid as a backup, i have a 5000w inverter, inverter uses 48v battery. so how would you set it up so the battery bank would last 10+ years?

how many watts panels?
how many batteries?
i can set the discharge voltage and max charge volts.

thanks again in advance.
 
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