new tester from ali? any good

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Actually here is not much energy stored below 3.0V in 3.6-3.7V nominal cells, so 3.0V is fine, many limit their systems to a 3.4V discharge limit.
Later floyd
 
floydR said:
Actually here is not much energy stored below 3.0V in 3.6-3.7V nominal cells, so 3.0V is fine, many limit their systems to a 3.4V discharge limit.
Later floyd
Click to expand...
Thanks floyd
I appreciate the reply and if 3.4 do you still get the correct mah reading?
KH
 
Test 4.2V-3.0V to get the mAh but on your battery packs you make limit discharge to 3.4V a cell
On a jumper pack you would want to limit discharge even more a 3s jumper pack 12.6V - 11.1V.
The 3.4V discharge limit works better with higher voltages,
7s 29.4V- 23.4V 14s 59.8V - 47.6V
Later floyd
 
Thanks for the insight
They have only changed to 4.11, 4.17 none at present have hit the 4.2.
But I take it that these in the 4s are acceptable.
KH
 
Hi Floyd
If you are still about.
How to read the mah!
Discharge is a reading.
Charging is also a reading, the charging mah will be much lower that tne discharge mah. In simple terms what to take notice of.
Thanks
KH
 
You know looking at what is actually on these devices has me thinking I should make my own and sell it.
Anyone want 16 channels with PC Comms

Edit: Actually forget about this, I've too many projects on the go as it is :D
:p
 
Last edited:
Kiwi-hunter said:
How to read the mah!
Discharge is a reading.
Click to expand...
Always use the discharge to get your mAh. Other such as wolf, OffGridInTheCity, hbpowerwall and others have spent days/weeks/months testing and building their 18650 based powerwalls. I would read wolf's threads for details on how to test.
Later floyd

​

 
Each cell is different and these testers are not very accurate. The charger circuit on these testers are based on a TP4056 chip - by spec. they should cut when the cell reaches 4.2V (+/-1.5%) - when the charger cuts at 4.2V then the cell kind of 'settle' and the voltage is shown - it is not exactly 4.2V but 4.16V 4.18V etc. The same happens on the low end, thats why I have set the discharge to 2.5V - because some cells 'settle' to 3.0V 3.1V once the discharger stops. I have not tried with 3V, but I think the cell 'settle' to almost the same voltage. (because thats how this exact cell behaves (my theory))

If you look at the discharge curve, then you can see that it drops very quick when the battery reaches 3V so if you set it to 3V then I would think you get almost the same result as if you set it to 2.7V or 2.5V.
I think, even if you do a test 5 times with the same cell, then the results would be different every time.
 
Yes can play around with it, floyd sort of put it in prospective and it came set at 3.
I've got one on auto now because its first chadge was 4.3 discharge was quick and stopped at 3v with a 26mah really.
Its charging now to4.18 and I think it will cut off soon, its a nvr 18650 B some my old ones from 2014 are still 2942mah.
Well it stopped in writing this and dropped to 4.04 discharge when straight to 3.53 and by the time i thumbed this on its jumping 2.96 then back to 3.89 3.90 3.91 end 22mah. Its not well. Yet it will drive a led torch for?? I'll test that no heat. This B has different caps. Thanks for your imput.
I'll do a drop to 2.5 on this one.
KH
 

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Update it's stop at 3.95 28mah replay quick death 3.88 8mah. Put it back to charge and straight away 4.18. Settled at 4.3 showing 27mah. I gave to another charger and then discharge 36mah.
Isn't this the definition of insanity doing the same thing expecting a different result.
KH
 
Finally got my one of these things. Before I go ahead and do it, has anyone confirmed that it's OK to join both 5V supplies together? I want to connect a permanent 5V 5A charger to it so I don't have to go faffing about looking for 2 5V2A USB-C sources.
 
I ran the two c ports for hours and have finished for now as a tester. I did have a usually thing one batt went to 1280mah and I took it to 2.8 or 2.5 can't remember and it came up, the only one that jumped up significantly to 2675mah.
I did get some different readings on round two but say for example the reading was 2500mah it sayed 2556mah
The first two numbers stayed the same, l'll repeat after the rest test next.
KH
 
grundholm said:
Each cell is different and these testers are not very accurate. The charger circuit on these testers are based on a TP4056 chip - by spec. they should cut when the cell reaches 4.2V (+/-1.5%) - when the charger cuts at 4.2V then the cell kind of 'settle' and the voltage is shown - it is not exactly 4.2V but 4.16V 4.18V etc. The same happens on the low end, thats why I have set the discharge to 2.5V - because some cells 'settle' to 3.0V 3.1V once the discharger stops. I have not tried with 3V, but I think the cell 'settle' to almost the same voltage. (because thats how this exact cell behaves (my theory))

If you look at the discharge curve, then you can see that it drops very quick when the battery reaches 3V so if you set it to 3V then I would think you get almost the same result as if you set it to 2.7V or 2.5V.
I think, even if you do a test 5 times with the same cell, then the results would be different every time.
Click to expand...
Because I don't have any experience with tech gear or much in the way of 18650 cell knowledge, I am heavily reliant on the forum for whats right and whats not.
I pulled down a bosch multi tool batt pack and the mahs weren't great 968mah the lowest and this one only changed to 4.05 and I did this twice changing cell holder with no difference and recharge to 4.04. I removed it and changed it on another charger and it continued to charge, put it on the tester it now read 4.16 then I disc and it settles at 1169mah, the other two cell from the pack read 1183mah and 1189amh.
They aren't high, will see how usable they are. Quite a difference I will rest and retest out of interest.
KH
 
MeHole said:
Who wants to run looking for two USB chargers when they have tons of barrell jack supplies lying about :D

Click to expand...
Nice setup with the bucks, of course all my night vision runs on C ports and the odd mirco on older stuff. I have plenty of units and cables. Just easier for me.
Of course that's one of the things any can do with knowledge or guidance.
Helpful pictures, thank you.
KH
 
I'll scope those pins myself next week.

Until then, while I know this battery is fucked anyway, the internal resistance reading is surely wrong?
 

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Has anyone tried the TS4520 IR Tester??

www.ebay.com

TS4520 Voltage Internal Resistance Tester 1.77-inch Car Battery Capacitor Tester | eBay

Charging module: integrated ternary lithium battery charging module, you can add built-in battery. 1 x Tester. Internal resistance display fine-tuning: support. Compact product, widely used. Built-in battery: no built-in battery.
www.ebay.com

Specification
Product name: TS4520 voltage internal resistance tester
(Precautions: prohibit testing AC power, prohibit testing more than 45V voltage)
Working voltage: DC5V (do not over-voltage power supply), need to provide their own power supply
Power supply interface: Type-C, need to provide their own power supply line
Built-in battery: no built-in battery
Charging module: integrated ternary lithium battery charging module, you can add built-in battery
Energy consumption: 50mA
Display screen: 1.77-inch TFT color display screen
Test Principle: AC 4-wire method
Test Fixture: A type USB to Kelvin clip
Voltage Test Range: 0.001V~45.00V Maximum Resolution 0.001V
Voltage display fine-tuning: support internal resistance measurement range: 0.1mΩ~20.00Ω Maximum resolution 0.1mΩ
Internal resistance display fine-tuning: support
Data Recording: 6 groups of internal resistance data can be recorded, and automatic recording when disconnecting the test clamp.
Auto shutdown: Support 1~9 minutes standby time adjustment.
Backlight Brightness: Support 1~9 levels of display backlight brightness adjustment.
Cable length: USB to Kelvin clip test cable (650mm)
 
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