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OffGridInTheCity

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Dec 15, 2018
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1,706
Note that packs 5, 16, 21, 44, 45 have dropped off the "cliff" by around the same amount. I see the same issue in my system, and it's an almost sure sign that one cell in each of those packs have died. Either detached/blown fuse, or popped CID.
Thank you for the comment. I'm slated to move pack 5 later this year, and that will give me a window to investigate for this.

Packs 1 thru 14 are all the same 'grey' modem cell from Battery Hookup that tested very well... and I've wondered why this would occur. I put it down to OPUS testing being pretty fuzzy somehow... but that's just a fuzzy thought rather than anything actual. It would be nice to know
 

OffGridInTheCity

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Dec 15, 2018
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Neighbor sold their house and I was checking zillow.com. Found this pic of my ground mount from their deck. I had wondered what it looked like. Shows you what I mean by keeping a 'low profile' (only 20deg) to blend in with neighborhood - looks like it was a good decision as it doesn't jump out in the view. Its hard for me to believe - but *many* folks do not like panels :(
1626896721802.png
 

hbpowerwall

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Doesn't look out of place at all... Someone once said to me - "A home isn't complete without solar"..
 

OffGridInTheCity

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I also have some mounted at a similar angle. Awesome during the summer, sucks during winter. Maybe mounting additional panels almost upright on the other fence would nicely balance out the output over the seasons?
Agree (about winter) and AGREE on more panels - but I promised the wife... no more panels. I'm working on her - maybe if I build her a greenhouse :)
 

italianuser

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Feb 25, 2020
Messages
335
Neighbor sold their house and I was checking zillow.com. Found this pic of my ground mount from their deck. I had wondered what it looked like. Shows you what I mean by keeping a 'low profile' (only 20deg) to blend in with neighborhood - looks like it was a good decision as it doesn't jump out in the view. Its hard for me to believe - but *many* folks do not like panels :(
View attachment 25670
Oh that does looks great! :love:

Wife... wife... There's a simple solution for wife:

small_diamond.png medium_diamond.png trilogy_diamond.png
LOL:ROFLMAO:
 

OffGridInTheCity

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Dec 15, 2018
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1,706
I'm in Southern Oregon USA.

Smoke from massive forest fires is really taking a toll on PV production this year. Its been continuous for most of August.
PV production for Aug is down to 1,636kwh from last year's somewhat smokey Aug 2020 that yielded 1,899kwh.

The smoke lessons the heat (less AC power required) but it's not proportional - its a net loss in the goal of attaining 100% off-grid and one needs extra PV to compensate.

The worst day was 45.6kwh PV - which is 57% of what it should be on a clear day. Not as bad as a bad winter day of clouds/rain/low-sun but still pretty bad.

Here's what it looks like at the worst - visibility down to 3 blocks
1630508311699.png



Here's what it looks like when it's better.... - 6 block visibility
1630508392973.png


2 posts above you can see what a clear day looks like - the mountain ranges (about 10 miles away) are mostly obscured all month. The wind shifts and we get a couple of hours of clearer air as sun goes down but then right back to full smoke thru the night.
 
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floydR

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The smoke has been bad here in Sacramento too although it has been clearer the last couple days.
Later floyd
 

100kwh-hunter

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Mar 2, 2019
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My dear lord....look who was a very busy bee......

Okee my plans for myself that could turn your plans or give you an idea or two?

A while ago i stumbled upon a guy that harvested/stored his energy from solar into water...
Just dig a hole into the ground insulate with a minimum rd value of 6 with pir sheets or exp or spray foam(pro type water proof btw), get some pvc pond foil, fill with water..
For one person to get comfortably thru those winter months is 1500 liters enough if kept on 85-90 C
One word of advice...make sure that the water is coming out of the crane at least at 48 c minimum.

My house has a 8000 litre water basement(from the old days for drinking water before the plumbing).
Take a guess what i did whit that...

I thought his name was David Poz, thank him for the idea and not me.
Needed in my case:
Two solar panels.
One 48v water heating element.
200 meters of floor heating hose.
Some electronic control equipment.
Insulation.
Pvc or epdm foil
Im my case not even 300 euro's total.

Insulate your house!
To live at neutral you will need to achieve:
For a flat roof a rd value of 13.
tilted roof(45 degrees) a rd of 11.
walls need 8(six is the absolute minimum)
Floor 5.

Your windows need to be a "triple" glass.
When done all this properly, you dont need heating equipment.

If you want help with this or have any questions send me a pm, i have a insulation company (thus a real professional insulator)i can tell you everything you must know and how to do it yourself.

My house? we don't have a home heating system anymore or a wood-stove, when we cook we must open the windows, outside minus 10 C inside plus 24C...520m3 air space..just a warm water boiler(without tank) for insurance and a 1 kwh heating radiator both gathering dust..
Centralised air circulation system with 0 to 5% continues fresh air feed with simple idea of a house has always under pressure and warm air wants to go up :cool:.

And your battery must be bigger? more storage?
Call some car yards and add some of those?

Very good job done

With best regards Igor
 

OffGridInTheCity

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@100kwh-hunter - I appreciate your comments and kind words :)

I do have 3 x 2500 gal rain-harvest water tanks.. and have speculated a bit if I could use them somehow. The immediate problem is I can't insulate them to store hot water. Also, it's not clear the net comparison to hot-water heating vs heat-pump (electrical) heat in my mild temperate zone.

According to my measurements it took an average of 39kwh/day to heat my 2600sq ft house with a top-end whole-house heat-pump and 'average' (1997 standard) insulation. I wonder what the 'hot-water' / 'forced air ducts' equivalent would be.

Back to water - one can easily see PV -> Hot-Water. If only there were only a way to do Hot-Water -> Electricity. Then I could use the natural sun on the water tanks -> Electricity. They get up to 90F/32C in summer time just by sitting out in the sun. This does contribute to lower hot-water heat-pump kwhs (200kwh/month winter -> 140kwh/month summer). Maybe 1kwh due to hotter ambient air (more efficient) and 1kwh due to 90F water (less to heat).

Again with water tanks - I look at storing energy by lifting these tanks in the air. After all 2000gal of water is roughly 2000 * 8 = 16,000lbs or 8 tons. However, when I did the math of raising them 6 feet and then running a generator as they went back down 6 feet I got numbers like 200w total per day. Kind of like wind and water turbines and even gas/propane/steam generators - it seems to take incredible amounts of physical push to get any decent wattage.

Panels are just amazing inventions .... :)
 
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100kwh-hunter

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Mar 2, 2019
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I will give you a proper reply that you deserve tomorrow, i am a bit to tired now, yes they are amazing inventions
 

100kwh-hunter

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Mar 2, 2019
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Those are serious water tanks

What i would do with first one:
I don't think they will ship to the US of A, price wise i dont even think you want that.
But i am very sure there is a simulair product over there.
Keep the next rules as basic rules:
Make sure your barrel is full and with a water temperature about 85F/30C
Make absolutely sure that the foam your are going to apply can handle a heat of 230F/110C, some foams will not take higher temps as 190F/90c or even 165F/75C and will get brittle.
Practice on a sheet of wood, before starting to spray on one of your tanks
Most packs needs to be pre heated to 85F/30C, i use some simple electric dog blankets.

The rest will be a bit the same as Divid Poz:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryJmtItfaXQ

Instead of using copper coils from boilers for heat exchangers you could use those plastic floor heating tubes.
One coil for floor heating or radiator heating, your closed system.
And one coil connected to your drinking water supply.
Make your coil for drinking/shower water a 110 yard or so, so the water will have time enough to get the heat from the water.

Dig that one into the soil, it is big enough to heat up your house, shower, dishes...

All you need are some 48v water heating elements a small circulation pump(50-55 us gal/200 litres an hour is more than enough, give it time)
Some small regulation electronics with a small sensor, warmer than 190F/90C cut off the panels, below 190F open the panels.
Make sure all of your plumbings are isolated aswel to prevent extra heat loss.
Get pir sheet of 4 inches thick and a "flat" wood drill (speed drill?) extend with a copper/alu/steel pipe of 3-3.5 foot
Wedge the drill in it, pir does not need a lot of torck.
20210911_170807.jpg
Cut the sheets in 4x4 inches length wise, drill a hole thru the middle, shove your pipe in it, next.....
Between the joints use insulation foam, i don't think you can get my favourite foam but any similar to "fm330 or fm350" will do its job perfect.

39kwh/day to heat my 2600sq ft house
:eek::eek::eek:
My house is double the size and we use not even 9 kwh, if we start cooking we must open the windows.
Next to the amazing inventions is insulation.

If only there were only a way to do Hot-Water -> Electricity.
I would hesitate (not really btw)to do this, but as a experiment it would be very nice: create steam.
What i did for one of my school projects was a sheet of rockwoll in a wooden box of 20x40 inch and 10 inch high.
I put on top some copper pipe with a centre to centre distance of 4 to 6 inch and 1 inch above the rockwool.
2 inch higher i had nailed a epdm pond foil on it and cover the whole thing up with a glass sheet.
Connected to the water pipe and waiting 5 minutes, we could made very hot coffee.

Once i did the same experiment on my pond with a 28 sq ft sheet...the pump was a bit to weak to push a needed amount of water thru it, it was coming out boiling with full sun on it.
On a Saturday morning the pump was jammed with algae, pure steam was coming out.

Oke we are going to second base:
Heat up the steam more to get it more dry: 230-255F/110-125C equals ~12 to 16 bar of pressure(considered as hi pressure for in a steam loco!), now this would make a nice set up to run a steam cylinder to get a generate going (dont run off to get a big boy's or the AA20's cylinder equivalent)
Steam cylinders are pretty easy to make if you can handle a reamer and can do some silver soldering.
But be careful please, steam is not only very hot but also incredibly strong, pay attention when your are going to make your valves and your connections.
Low pressure steam can do the same 212-230F/100-110c equals ~1-12 bar.
If they could do it in 1820-1840, then we can do it better

With the other two i would also dig them in for rain water harvest, one for the garden and one for washing machine (shower) and toilet.
Filter up to 130 micron with a small pump in it and some oxygen ball.
For drinking water you need a setup that would need more space, technology and measurements than your power wall, but yes it can be done.
Preferably a contentions system of 10 to 20 gal an hour, the exes water can be returned into the filter.
An on demand system, nope.
Both cases will also drain your wall faster than you can charge it, thinking of uv-c, ozon, hi pressure pump, filters.
You want to get some dirt, industrial pollution and bird droppings out.
Especially the droppings are making it expensive.
Yes i hear you think: what about the old days...
We did not have industrial pollution thus healthy bacteria that good do the job easy, less dirt in the air also.
If you want to get a ruf idea, google for koi pond filters for a starting set.

Btw lifting a bucket of that size....got any idea what structure you must have to support that amount of weight....
Sorry but the myth of the bricklayer and his bucket of bricks is playing in my mind now...up and down and here we go up again.

With best regards Igor
 
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