PIP 4048HS Failure

hbpowerwall

hbpowerwall

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Oct 7, 2016
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So after 6.5 years, my first PIP4048HS has failed with a flashing display & relay clicking :( Aanyone see this and has any pointers where to look first? The comment section of the youtube video has given me hints but after I opened the invert there isn't much to visually see at the moment. Have to wait for an electrician to arrive to disconnect it.

View: https://youtu.be/RhujbR8nWsc
 

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I think it was a solid run considering a true 24/7 use with only a hand full of days in that time spent turned off due to flat batteries. Hope its easily fixable - already reached out to MPP to see what they can do to help, even if it's just advice on where to actually look based on their experience. Likely they'll just try sell me a board but I guess that's still a result. Side note that this inverter is the one that always run much hotter than the other one.. Wondering if that had something to do with the failure.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVlf8Pc0aMg&t
 
It looks like this cap on the right is slightly bulging, but it is hard to really determine without getting better angles.
1685410092836.png

I drew a line to show the edge. You can see it appears to be slightly bulging above the back side of the cap. The one on the left you can see the plastic wrapping around the back side, but the one on the right it is hidden.
But I will say, this could just be the angle the picture was taken that is slightly biased to one side over the other.

The black goo on the windings is normal. That's just there to help keep them from vibrating and/or move for any reason.
 
Dam, didn't even notice that, it doesn't look bad but guessing they are the 450v caps if I remember correctly from mikes video.
 
The cap is definitely suspect. When you get thing properly apart, make sure to really inspect it especially at the circuit board end. Maybe it has leaked.
But again, it could just be the angle/light causing the illusion. Can't rule anything out until it's checked out, tho.
 
I had a MPPSolar inverter once, that completely died after a short on the AC output side after a couple hundred hours of use time.
Nothing inside seemed damaged, no fuses, no mosfets, no capacitors. Only after looking a bit deeper, i found a coil that was getting hot.

So i spoke to the service mail of MPPSolar and got told, every board inside must be replaced, costing more than a brand new inverter. I tried gambling, ordered the board where the coil was getting very hot, it didnt got hot anymore, but the inverter would still not turn on. The salesperson even lied to me and told me, the replacement part would only cost ~250 usd, but didnt mention that i would had to pay extra for shipping, import and tax fees aswell, so it ended up at 450€ for me for 1 of the 3 pcb's.

After that, i tossed the MPPSolar inverter into a corner and bought a brand new one from Deye, which works flawlessly and the support is eager to help.
Honestly, DUCK MPPSolar. Their stuff was 10 years old, 10 years ago, quality is terrible, service is terrible, price is not even that good.
 
hbpowerwall said:
Will have to try fix for sure now.. reply from MPP Solar

REALLY like the 11kw unit but feel it will over power my poor abused battery bank.. it really can't last much longer ...............Can it..? https://maximumsolar.online/product/pip11kw-max-au-warehouse/
Click to expand...
You can always set the output values so that it won't charger more than you want it to do. And with the newer firmwares/sensors, you could even change the charge current based on temperatures of the batteries connected.
And could even connect it to Home Assistant (or similar) and set up all kinds of parameters for it to follow.
 
OR I could upgrade batteries to LifePO! hehe
 
hbpowerwall said:
OR I could upgrade batteries to LifePO! hehe
Click to expand...
Well what are you waiting for??? You have my approval:cool:
If i can suggest, take the lifepo4 as your main battery and keep on adding 18650 cells.

Sinds you have your cells up and running for what? 5 6? years, some of your packs are deteriorating.
Replace them with "new" 18650 and your new gained knowledge to test them.
Cant wait on your new video's about that.

Thanks
 
I have the money for LifePo4 but just don't want to spend it. Also it's a lot of effort lol
 
hbpowerwall said:
I have the money for LifePo4 but just don't want to spend it. Also it's a lot of effort lol
Click to expand...
LOL LiFePO4 would be far easier to set up and maintain :ROFLMAO:
 
Korishan said:
LOL LiFePO4 would be far easier to set up and maintain :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
euh what setup and what maintenance?????:cool::cool::cool::cool:
there is none maintenanco.....!
Setup? screw them down....!
Efford...solder a daly bms....!
Done for the next 40 years.....at80% soh at 1 cycle a day...good morning....
and after that...your bms will still be working and your balancer also....
Oke boehou....i had 280ah 40 years ago, i have left 250ah now.....

Pete:
You founder of the forum and recycler of 18650....you founder of 18650 yt university....must go to lifepo4...and keep 18650 as a extra storage....
I had 100kwh of 18650....i sold them...now i i have 60kwh of lifepo4....
15kwh of nimh....and growing li ion 18650....going towards a ......100kwh again...people find me, i dont find 18650 or nimh....they find me...

What thechie tech do we have in 2033??????DUCK in 2028 even....
18650 will be arounf for a long long time.
Use them, with the knowledge you have obtained....keep an eye on my projects: nimh and li ion.
Thanks to some people here i know they can do 2000+ cycles IF treaded right....but there degray is faster than lifepo4....so what li ion is free ATM
10 years?...so what...use your knowledge and continu with 18650 for "extra" storage....and main lifepo4...

Sorry Peter but lifepo4 is winning right now, 5 years ago li ion was still the winner...15 years ago it was nimh....before that it was nicd....all the way back to edison.....
What is next?....salt....I dont think so, not yet....iron again? who knows....go with the flow.
In 10 years from now, people will give me free there lifepo4 cells? becouse li ion is out....
ect
I still hav a couple of nicad up and running!!!!!
ect

With best and kind regards Igor K
 
100kwh-hunter said:
Setup? screw them down....!
Click to expand...
Practical mode on!
P.S. during holidays I'll try two new things, both to produce current: hydrogen setup and using hard disk plates (I have maybe 50 old HDDs stored, I'll never use them); HDD setup is weird, comments under the YT videos were all skeptical and trolls; but I searched it and it does indeed have literature supporting it, it works because of the chemistry used for HDD plate coating
 
Hydrogen you mean water right????or hydrogen gas and water gas?

What do you want with hdd drives?
i dont get it, new techie thing?
More info is appreciated.

With kind regards Igor
 
Bunch of new photos, no further along with the troubleshooting due to day job, might have a guy that has a better chance of fixing it than me heading around in a few days.. Can't see any caps blown, big ones it's just the heat shrink that makes the back one looked like it's puffed up a little unfortunately i don't think it's going to be an easy (for me ) fix
 

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italianuser said:
same for me... and then I watch that guy on YT fixing GPUs... like a black-screen RTX3060Ti... and I'm there scratching my head, he makes it look sooo simple! :p
Click to expand...

NorthRidge FIX ? I like him but he belittles his clients too much.. there are a few more that do GPU repairs but can't remember their names off hand.
 
Do you have any idea if it's on the AC or DC side? I fixed one of my inverters once, it had a row of capacitors (parallel) - 2 out of 5 was broken - not visible, but they didn't charge - so the two broken caps. dragged the other ones down.... you could make a simple test with a multi meter - (inverter disconnected :) ) set it to measure resistance 10k-20k - then measure the DC terminals - if the resistance go up, then the caps. is charging... then continue to 'charge' 30 secs. the caps should have about 0,5-1 volt - now measure the voltage, if the voltage go down quick, then it's the caps.
 
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