Wolf
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- Joined
- Sep 25, 2018
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For those of you unfortunate or maybe fortunate to get a bunch of these Ninebot rubber encased batteries after disassembling a bunch in various ways here is what I came up with to be the best way (at least I think) to recover the cells.
A good set of gloves is recommended and very necessary.
I first take a plastic body molding tool and slide it over the BMS board and get a whole chunk of rubber off in one go.
This exposes the BMS board and I push the little test button there and if the LED blinks I gives me a good indication there are a bunch of good cells in that pack.
Next I clean up the sides and bottom with the molding tool
Most of these packs where forced out of their original containers with some form of prying tool by the "yard apes" (what we called the guys that pulled used engines and destroyed half of the good parts) so you may have 1 or 2 damaged cells on one of the ends.
Once the critical rubber has been removed on to the spot welded strips.
I use a utility knife to flip up the strips on the negative side of the batteries and then use a small set of cutters to pull the strips off.
This is the most time consuming part of the job.
Once the nickel strips have been removed from both sides I use a 7/32 drill and clean out the holes that have the 3 screws holding the assembly together.
I slowly drill down and remove the drill to clean it up several times. Once you hit bottom (which is the head of the screw) you will know it so don't go any further.
With the holes now nice and clean you can use a thin #1 philips to unscrew the 3 screws holding the 2 plastic holders together.
I then use the molding tool again and slide it this time under the BMS and free it from the rubber.
I clean up the remaining rubber underneath the BMS as the next part is the toughest. Separating the holders.
This part will separate the men from the boys. As I was an automotive tech for 25 years of my life and still work on cars on the weekends My wrists and fingers are still extremely strong so with a good set of gloves I pull the shell apart. That is the easiest and fastest way I have found to separate the shell. Once that is done you are almost there.
I then use the molding tool again to push the positive ends out of the remaining holder as I have found that pushing the negative also will concave it a bit and makes cleaning the remaining spot weld slag harder.
The remaining cells will pull out easy enough and you will have a mess of rubber left over.
Once given a quick wipe with the gloved hands and getting as much of the leftover rubber off of the cells I use a flush cutter for a quick slag cleanup
and place them into a box for final processing.
I see that I can only attach 20 files so I only have 2 more which I will post next.
Wolf
A good set of gloves is recommended and very necessary.
I first take a plastic body molding tool and slide it over the BMS board and get a whole chunk of rubber off in one go.
This exposes the BMS board and I push the little test button there and if the LED blinks I gives me a good indication there are a bunch of good cells in that pack.
Next I clean up the sides and bottom with the molding tool
Most of these packs where forced out of their original containers with some form of prying tool by the "yard apes" (what we called the guys that pulled used engines and destroyed half of the good parts) so you may have 1 or 2 damaged cells on one of the ends.
Once the critical rubber has been removed on to the spot welded strips.
I use a utility knife to flip up the strips on the negative side of the batteries and then use a small set of cutters to pull the strips off.
This is the most time consuming part of the job.
Once the nickel strips have been removed from both sides I use a 7/32 drill and clean out the holes that have the 3 screws holding the assembly together.
I slowly drill down and remove the drill to clean it up several times. Once you hit bottom (which is the head of the screw) you will know it so don't go any further.
With the holes now nice and clean you can use a thin #1 philips to unscrew the 3 screws holding the 2 plastic holders together.
I then use the molding tool again and slide it this time under the BMS and free it from the rubber.
I clean up the remaining rubber underneath the BMS as the next part is the toughest. Separating the holders.
This part will separate the men from the boys. As I was an automotive tech for 25 years of my life and still work on cars on the weekends My wrists and fingers are still extremely strong so with a good set of gloves I pull the shell apart. That is the easiest and fastest way I have found to separate the shell. Once that is done you are almost there.
I then use the molding tool again to push the positive ends out of the remaining holder as I have found that pushing the negative also will concave it a bit and makes cleaning the remaining spot weld slag harder.
The remaining cells will pull out easy enough and you will have a mess of rubber left over.
Once given a quick wipe with the gloved hands and getting as much of the leftover rubber off of the cells I use a flush cutter for a quick slag cleanup
and place them into a box for final processing.
I see that I can only attach 20 files so I only have 2 more which I will post next.
Wolf
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