Starting battery pack build... Comments invited!

Paul
A couple things stand out to me now that I know you are planning on a real 6kw inverter with 2 - 24v packs in series...

8S will give you a nominal voltage of 29.6v and a peak voltage of 33.6v. Which in series will give you 59.2v to 67.2v on the high end. Most inverters can't handle this input. So be sure to check the inverter spec sheet before you get started. I'm going for 7S packs and I will still be a bit on the high side for a 48v inverter.

Also, 6000w / 48v = 125 amps. So you would need a bare minimum of 6 of the packs you describe (2S/3P) just to be able to have a full 1C draw on each cell at max output (accounting for losses).

Hope that helps :p
 
Aspendell said:
Paul
A couple things stand out to me now that I know you are planning on a real 6kw inverter with 2 - 24v packs in series...

Thanks for the confidence, but I just got off the Outback website, and although, its what I need, the Inverter/charger with distribution panel is costing more than my entire 21 panel solar system installed. Back to the drawing board....

8S will give you a nominal voltage of 29.6v and a peak voltage of 33.6v. Which in series will give you 59.2v to 67.2v on the high end. Most inverters can't handle this input. So be sure to check the inverter spec sheet before you get started. I'm going for 7S packs and I will still be a bit on the high side for a 48v inverter.

Maybe I'll be able to nail it with a he 24v packs ...awaiting word back from the (Chinese) mfg. PS how did you go with 7s packs? Can you provide a link?

Also, 6000w / 48v = 125 amps. So you would need a bare minimum of 6 of the packs you describe (2S/3P) just to be able to have a full 1C draw on each cell at max output (accounting for losses).

Aspendell, I think I need clarification on the 2s/3p nomenclature. In my drawing, I thought mine was 8s/20p

Awaiting your response,

Paul
 
pfromero said:
Aspendell said:
Paul
A couple things stand out to me now that I know you are planning on a real 6kw inverter with 2 - 24v packs in series...

Thanks for the confidence, but I just got off the Outback website, and although, its what I need, the Inverter/charger with distribution panel is costing more than my entire 21 panel solar system installed. Back to the drawing board....

8S will give you a nominal voltage of 29.6v and a peak voltage of 33.6v. Which in series will give you 59.2v to 67.2v on the high end. Most inverters can't handle this input. So be sure to check the inverter spec sheet before you get started. I'm going for 7S packs and I will still be a bit on the high side for a 48v inverter.

Maybe I'll be able to nail it with a he 24v packs ...awaiting word back from the (Chinese) mfg. PS how did you go with 7s packs? Can you provide a link?

Also, 6000w / 48v = 125 amps. So you would need a bare minimum of 6 of the packs you describe (2S/3P) just to be able to have a full 1C draw on each cell at max output (accounting for losses).

Aspendell, I think I need clarification on the 2s/3p nomenclature. In my drawing, I thought mine was 8s/20p

Awaiting your response,

Paul
Yes, I did short-hand my response. So some clarification is in order.

The Outback Radian GS 8048 Inverter/Charger will accept a very wide DC input range: 40-64vdc. This is a much wider range than most inverters. However with your 2 - 8s packs wired in series you would exceed this maximum if your packs were ever charged over about 75% of max capacity, and the charger would be unable to charge them to full capacity.

Your second question: Since you said your packs would be designed for 24v at 51 amps capacity, then you would need to wire 2 in series to give you the 48v needed for a 48v inverter. This would give you 48v at 51amps. But since you would need 48v at about 150 amps to generate the max capacity of 6000 Watts, you would need 3 such series packs in parallel to have the minimal amount of current to run this inverter. Hence, 2 in series by 3 in parallel = 6 packs like you described (2s/3p) ;) And keep in mind that if you go with a less efficient asian build inverter, you will need much more than this.

What I would suggest is going with the highest wattage True-Sinewave unit from the half-dozen or so Inverter manufacturers that have been around for 10 years or more. You would get much more value for your money than buying something of low quality (that will actually deliver less even though its rated 3X as high). So if you have to settle for 1500 watts right now, just be sure to get one that has something like OutBacks FLEXgrid technology so that you can chain more together to increase your total wattage and even go to 240 or 480v 3 phase AC output later.
Real inverters just aren't made much over 3000 watts because this is about the max that 1 or 2 people can lift without a forklift :-/ Instead they chain together the 120 lb or so units to get the desired wattage. So if you see a 6kw asian unit that weighs 50lbs in shipping, run away very fast!

Hopefully that clarified my statements.

Unrelated: I just got back from a rare trip to town (I live pretty far out), and all I could find locally for fuse wire was some 24 and 30 gauge Craft wire from Walmart, LOL. I got 25 yards each of gold and silver spools. I don't know what they are made out of, so gonna call the company and do some testing now :D



Oh, I missed your question about my config 7s.


image_fvazgy.jpg

image_usepth.jpg


3x5 on eBay
4x5 on eBay
I paid $4 usd for 10 of the 3x5s and $4.70 for 10 of 4x5s, but have to wait forever for the free shipping from China of course.
I'd buy the ones being sold here in the forum if you need them in under 4 weeks.



So I connect the long 5 cell sides of these together to get 7x5, then attach another 7x5 behind it to give me 7x10 cells.
Then the rows of 10 will alternate + and - every other row (to minimize buss length).
This will give me a nominal voltage of 7 x 3.7v = 25.9v and a max voltage of 4.2v x 7 = 29.4v (at full charge)

And later when I put 2 packs in series I will have nominal (avg) voltage 51.8v and 58.8v at full charge of 4.2v per cell. All but the cheapest inverters will be able to handle this input voltage range.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331976415700?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Thanks Ave Joe!! I will add a length of #2 awg bus to the ends and double it up, plus some shrink wrap. Thanks again.

I have some questions though,

Ave Joe:
1) I originally had 28 gauge copper wire that I was going to use as fuse wire. When I would short a 18650 battery (+ to -) with this wire, it would blow within 1-2 seconds. Good, I thought, but when I asked you (PM message last week), you told me that you tested a 30 gauge, and it took 15 amps to blow. So, I dont understand!?!

hbpowerwall:
I bought the 20 gauge TWC (from Remington Industries), but Ave Joe tested a 30 gauge version from Mike, and it is not popping at even 15 amps! I tested this 20 ga wire on one of my 18650 batteries, and it didnt even get hot.

All:
With respect to the 30 gauge wire Ave Joe is testing: are we talking about the same wire...i.e. 30 gauge tinned copper from Mike in both above questions?

It looks like I am going to have to go with authentic fuse wire (100g) 5-6 amps. Is my thinking correct?

Thanks,

Paul

Another prime example of why we should test the wire you plan to use if its not actual fuse wire because if we think we are getting what someone else has it could end up popping at a different ampere. 5-6 amp fuse wire would be great IMO.
 
Hi all,

My goal with this re-design was to keep it simple. I wanted a 7p (24 volt) pack that fit in my deck box and will power my 6000 watt/24vDC charger inverter.

I believe I have designed that....

I am running (approx 2.5 gauge) .25" diameter copper bus wire on one side of each cell and 16 gauge (1.31mm2) bus wire on the other side of each cell. The larger diameter cable will "snake" around the cells while the smaller diameter wire will not snake but have a seperate length for each row of cells, being joined at the end with a "bus bar" of the .25" diameter copper. Here is a drawing of it.(see below)

Note:1 where the bus bars cross at each end, they will have insulation around them.
Note 2: I may put both positive and negative leads on one end, instead of one on each end, since this is all 24 volts DC and I can just wire them up in parralel with a larger gauge cable to the inverter.
Note 3: every other row of cells will be inverted (positive side down)

Thanks for looking,

Paul

image_afvoya.jpg
 
Pfromero: 1.31mm2 wire on the 2nd side is huge dimension :) But its always good to not have voltage drop more than needed. Not sure your bus bars by above but looks good.

Did you see my video of a similar pack design? Perhaps that can give you some more hints.
 
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