SUN2000GTIL2-LCD On Grid Tie Amoment of your time if I may.


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Old Seagull Man

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SUN2000GTIL2-LCD On Grid System Owners Some Information If You Please?

Hi What i'm trying to find our is what is the recommended battery, voltage and current from your experience to get close to or Full output.
With the 2kw Version. Ca you get usefull output from 48Volts?

I have a 48volt 525Ah battery, and was hoping to be able to use this, unit, or something like it to cover some of our night time load.
We have a constant load of 1650- 2200 watt over night and it would be nice to cover this.

The thinking is to set the limiter function, so we never export to the grid. And that the panels on the roof could be reconfigured to supply perhaps.
A MakeSkyBlue controller, for daily recharging.

Thoughts ideas, and suggestion, and voltage and Current data, from your Inverters. Most very welcome.
 

ajw22

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Nov 16, 2018
Messages
681
OldSeagullMan said:
SUN2000GTIL2-LCD On Grid System Owners Some Information If You Please?

Hi What i'm trying to find our is what is the recommended battery, voltage and current from your experience to get close to or Full output.
With the 2kw Version. Ca you get usefull output from 48Volts?

I have a 48volt 525Ah battery, and was hoping to be able to use this, unit, or something like it to cover some of our night time load.
We have a constant load of 1650- 2200 watt over night and it would be nice to cover this.

The thinking is to set the limiter function, so we never export to the grid. And that the panels on the roof could be reconfigured to supply perhaps.
A MakeSkyBlue controller, for daily recharging.

Thoughts ideas, and suggestion, and voltage and Current data, from your Inverters. Most very welcome.


I have a vague recollection ofsomeone mentioningthat it does not output anywhere near the full 2kW with a 48V battery. Not sure.

You could use the1kW / 22V~65Vversion, 2 or 3 in parallel to cover your needs. I have 4 of those, each limitedto 750W output for cooler running, and they've been working wonderfully for nearly 2 years now. They don't share the load equally, but work remarkably well to keep grid draw down to a minimum.
Make sure to test the devices as soon as you get them - I had one fail after~1hr of operation (full refund!).

Note that these types of devices may not be legal where you live.
 

Cheap 4-life

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380
Both the 2kw and 1kw gtil2 can supply 240v. To get max output from the 22-65v (1kw) model, the best voltage range is 48v nominal. To get max output from the 45-90v (1kw and 2kw) model, the best voltage range is close to 90v making sure to not go above 90v. I use the 2kw model in the USA. I have them running on batteries, the battery voltage I use is 16s Li-ion which I charge to just over 65v.
You have a 48v battery so the 22-65v (1kw) inverter is the inverter for you. Although I feel like the 45-90v GTIL2 inverters are a better inverter. They use less amps because they use a higher voltage which prolongs inverter life. Less amps being used to create the same amount of watts = better efficiency. Unfortunately Most people have a 48v or lower battery bank so they have to choose the 22-65v version.
I have each inverter limited to use 25 amps max from the batteries. This enables each inverter to produce 1500w. I feel like this is safely under the max the inverter can supply to prolong inverter life.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1455824754596738/ This is a forum for GTIL2 users that have split phase main panels (mostly USA users). I am a moderator there. I helped start the group due to confusion about using the 2kw inverter in the USA

Id recommend using an outback victron midnite or similar charge controller instead of the one you mentioned. They are safer and will harvest more power from your panels so the extra cost is made up over time.
 

Wolf

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Cheap4-life said:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1455824754596738/ This is a site for GTIL2 users that have split phase main panels (mostly USA users). I am a moderator there. I helped start the group due to confusion regarding using the 2kw inverter in the USA

Id recommend using an outback victron midnite or similar charge controller instead of the one you mentioned. They are safer and will harvest more power from your panels so the extra cost is made up over time.

Good to know.

I have requested to join the Facebook page.
I have (2) 45-90V GTIL2 working very well.
I also recently acquired (4) 22-65V units. As I am running 48V Li-Ion battery bank, now that I saw your post, I am curious if the performance will be better with them compared to my 45-90V units. Not that I am at all disappointedwith the 45-90V units.
Eventually I want to possibly stack the 22-65V units also.
Wolf
 

Old Seagull Man

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Aug 2, 2020
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Thank you everyone for your comments, and help.

I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a supplier of these inverters? So one in Australia, would be perfect in these strange Covid times.
But a good Asian source is what i will most likely end up with. So if you have one you have use and like, share the joy. And i will join you all in this madness.
I have decided on the 2Kw version, as I now have a 60v battery. So that should suit the 2K unit a bit better.

Thanks Again for all the info.

OSM
 

Cheap 4-life

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Messages
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Which 60v battery did u get? Its been a while ago but I think I got my two inverters from eco-worthy. What kind of power supply do the homes in Australia have?


Wolf said:
Cheap4-life said:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1455824754596738/ This is a site for GTIL2 users that have split phase main panels (mostly USA users). I am a moderator there. I helped start the group due to confusion regarding using the 2kw inverter in the USA

Id recommend using an outback victron midnite or similar charge controller instead of the one you mentioned. They are safer and will harvest more power from your panels so the extra cost is made up over time.

Good to know

I have requested to join the Facebook page.
I have (2) 45-90V GTIL2 working very well.
I also recently acquired (4) 22-65V units. As I am running 48V Li-Ion battery bank, now that I saw your post, I am curious if the performance will be better with them compared to my 45-90V units. Not that I am at all disappointedwith the 45-90V units.
Eventually I want to possibly stack the 22-65V units also.
Wolf
I am also curious which one would perform better. Im thinking they will perform similar since the battery voltage used will be the same for both. But the 22-65v will be able to produce more power due to the battery being at the top of its voltage range. A higher voltage battery than 48v nominal in combination with the 45-90v inverter would certainly perform better.
 

Old Seagull Man

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Aug 2, 2020
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Which 60v battery did u get? Its been a while ago but I think I got my two inverters from eco-worthy. What kind of power supply do the homes in Australia have?

Just a bunch of old CALB cells.
Australia runs 230v Ac 50 Hz Single Phase.
So somewhere between 220 and 245volts is what you get.
 

Old Seagull Man

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Well its ordered from Avian Wind@Solar Store on AliExpress and UPS says its on it way so we will see in a week or ten wont we.
And my Old BMV 700 from the boat will be used as a temp so things are under way.
 

RangerGress

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Aug 25, 2020
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OldSeagullMan said:
SUN2000GTIL2-LCD On Grid System Owners Some Information If You Please?

Hi What i'm trying to find our is what is the recommended battery, voltage and current from your experience to get close to or Full output.
With the 2kw Version. Ca you get usefull output from 48Volts?

I have a 48volt 525Ah battery, and was hoping to be able to use this, unit, or something like it to cover some of our night time load.
We have a constant load of 1650- 2200 watt over night and it would be nice to cover this.

The thinking is to set the limiter function, so we never export to the grid. And that the panels on the roof could be reconfigured to supply perhaps.
A MakeSkyBlue controller, for daily recharging.

Thoughts ideas, and suggestion, and voltage and Current data, from your Inverters. Most very welcome.
I have that grid tie inverter and it feeds from my 48V batt bank just fine. You can control how much power it pulls from the batts by the GTIL's limiter settings. There's 2 settings to play with:
Bat or solar limited Current Mode
Bat or solar limited Power Mode

I'm using Power mode. Yesterday I tried 800W with a V cut-off of 49V. It pulled around 10A and I think that it would have stopped if the batts got down to 49V. I've only had it for a week so I'm still playing around with it. Tonight I'll try 1000W.
 

Cheap 4-life

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Ranger, if you are using the 45-90v inverter then a 48v nominal battery is not the correct voltage for that inverter. The inverter will have to use a lot more amps to supply its max power because the volts that it can use is at the lower end of its operating voltage. The inverter will also have to use more amps at any time for any load due also to the battery voltage being at the lower end of the operating volts of the inverter. This will cause more heat and shorten the life of the inverter. A 48v nominal battery should be used with the 22-65v version of this inverter. Following this same principle the 22-65v inverter shouldnt be powered by a 24v battery because thats at the lower end of that versions operating voltage causing the same amp issues.
 

Old Seagull Man

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Quick Update And Thanks to everyone who commented..

Well the inverter arrived from china via Singapore with UPS. Took about two weeks so not bad. Undamaged and unmolested, by customs.
So we thought we should test it. As everyone had suggested, as some have had DOA's. On the bench it the workshop it went, hooked up 60v at 250AH just to check if it worked.
Powered up perfectly and was showing 1850 watts at 26 amps. So all good, or so it thought, till i rested my hand on the steel bench to change a setting and got quite a kick.

Out with the multimeter and what do you know 108v between the heatsink and earth. That explains the little tingle. Off with the covers, meter earth pin in socket, to lead. All good, contact pad on pc board to chassis, not so good. Remove lovely black anodized screw, replace with stainless steel with spring washed. Dead short on multimeter, from earth pin in plug, to heatsink. Happy Andrew. Re-powered, no tingle, so testing will begin.
 

Roland W

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Oct 9, 2017
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The 2000 GTL will start reducing output with battery voltage below 51V. Any Lifepo 16s or Lipo, NCM 14s battery will do well for that inverter. The output can be set, but max is somewhere around 1920W. As that inverter is active cooled by 2 fans, i wouldn't run it on full power if you live in a hot climate same me. I have set it to max 1250W just to go safe ;) , but i am still running about 10 kWhs over it each night. Limiter works great. It will reduce the load to around 10-7W remaining on that phase. Bought my inverter on Aliexpress for around 220 usd (no Wifi)
 
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