X2Power CYL10030 Starting Battery Teardown

[TheBatteries]

Today's starting battery teardown is an X2Power CYL10030. I can't find much at all about this one online. It looks like it may have been sold by Batteries+Bulbs, so maybe something exclusive to them that's now discontinued? I'm not sure. It's a 36Wh LiFePO4 battery that states it's the equivalent of a 9Ah lead battery. I'm not sure how that math works out though because 36Wh / 12.8V (nominal) = 2.8Ah. That's some interesting advertising there.



I used my new heat gun and was able to op it open with minimal damage to the case. It's still broken beyond the ability to put it back together, but slowly getting better at this...


Here's our first look inside. As with all starter batteries I've worked with, the BMS is balancing only, no on/off protection.


The battery pack is glued in pretty good, it took a lot of picking this black stuff off to remove it. It was harder than silicone, not sure...


10AWG 200C standard silicone wiring. It's nice to see #10 as many that I've opened are using #12.


The BMS has some nice-sized balancing resistors.


The cells are pouches again. I guess this makes sense, given they're lighter and can sustain greater burst currents vs cylindrical cells. They are very soft and bendable, which is usually an indicator that the battery had been abused in some way (charging or discharging way too fast). There is no bloating though, which is interesting.


The cell tabs are soldered together though this small board. Look how close that black wire is to shorting out on the adjoining cell!! The paper on top is burnt too, indicating that it had gotten very hot at some point. All cells were around 0.2V, so pretty much completely dead.


This label is the only identifying information I could find on the cells. The part number B5577123LXP didn't return any results in Google and I assume the other number is a serial number.

 

[thunderheart]

The cells are pouches again. I guess this makes sense, given their lighter and can sustain greater burst currents vs cylindrical cells.

Just thanks to different packing?

 

[Korishan]

I would think the weight would be contributed to not being in a cylinder casing (less steel in the build).
Then, because it's flat as opposed to round, there's more space for cells in parallel, which increases the current output.

That's what I was thinking, anyways.

 

[floydR]

4s1p ?
later floyd

 

[TheBatteries]

4s1p ?
later floyd

Yep, 4s1p. It seems these batteries are very simple.

 

[bacardis]

Today's starting battery teardown is an X2Power CYL10030. I can't find much at all about this one online. It looks like it may have been sold by Batteries+Bulbs, so maybe something exclusive to them that's now discontinued? I'm not sure. It's a 36Wh LiFePO4 battery that states it's the equivalent of a 9Ah lead battery. I'm not sure how that math works out though because 36Wh / 12.8V (nominal) = 2.8Ah. That's some interesting advertising there.

View attachment 22889 View attachment 22890

I used my new heat gun and was able to op it open with minimal damage to the case. It's still broken beyond the ability to put it back together, but slowly getting better at this...
View attachment 22891

Here's our first look inside. As with all starter batteries I've worked with, the BMS is balancing only, no on/off protection.
View attachment 22892

The battery pack is glued in pretty good, it took a lot of picking this black stuff off to remove it. It was harder than silicone, not sure...
View attachment 22893

10AWG 200C standard silicone wiring. It's nice to see #10 as many that I've opened are using #12.
View attachment 22894

The BMS has some nice-sized balancing resistors.
View attachment 22895

The cells are pouches again. I guess this makes sense, given they're lighter and can sustain greater burst currents vs cylindrical cells. They are very soft and bendable, which is usually an indicator that the battery had been abused in some way (charging or discharging way too fast). There is no bloating though, which is interesting.
View attachment 22896

The cell tabs are soldered together though this small board. Look how close that black wire is to shorting out on the adjoining cell!! The paper on top is burnt too, indicating that it had gotten very hot at some point. All cells were around 0.2V, so pretty much completely dead.
View attachment 22897 View attachment 22898 View attachment 22899

This label is the only identifying information I could find on the cells. The part number B5577123LXP didn't return any results in Google and I assume the other number is a serial number.
View attachment 22900 View attachment 22901

Hello, this morning I have disassembled my YTX9-BS JMT and it is the same as that ,,, 100% the same
I am looking to increase the power, change the pack for a 4s2p but I can not find anything

 

[kc8adu]

that thing is begging to be destroyed!
no lvd?
crap!

 

[izzzzzz6]

I just picked one of these up from the dump. It appears to have lipo cells but might be li-ion but basically the same thing.
My pack had one dead cell. The trick is to match a new cell. It is not easy to solder to the tabs so try to snip the dead cell off leaving the solder part of the tab to the good cells. If you want to go to town you can charge the remaining cells and do an individual discharge on each one to see the capacity in mAh. Once you know this you can aim to match a cell or replace any further dead cells always leaving the solder side on the good cells, if you can't solder to the tabs you would really need a spot welder to make a good connection, i'm not sure how they solder to the tabs. I'm thinking that perhaps they spot weld a small tab of nickle to the end?
Anyway at a guess they are probably approx 5-10 Ah each. You want to buy a cell with a high c rating if it is for starting a motorbike etc.
If you were able to do a discharge to calculate the mAh rating you could match to the weakest cell unless it also needed replacing. The pack is only as good as the weakest cell.
Man these things stink. This is offgassing some nasty plastic smells. Was a bitch to open. Can probably keep the box and fix this one. I was thinking if it was too bad i would just keep the balancer and box for other projects. Fould some good li-ion batteries at the dump recently.
A dyson battery with 21700 cells and bad bms. An ebike battery with good cells but missing key, found the replacement part with new key on ali ex.
And a load of lipo rc packs many still with good cells, just snip the bad ones out and do some charge discharge testing. All this is very time consuming but a good way to recycle and good practice for some nice free / cheap project power supplies.

I have some cells perfect for this repair, i also have a scooter i found dumped by the bins sonow i have a battery for it. lol

Ps you need a beefy soldering iron when they get this big. I don't like turning my station to the max so i have a 250W gun and a 500W gun. There seems to only be one outlet for the 500W guns but if you get one of the decent ones with thermostat regulation and trigger boost don't turn it to full power if you are on 230V they are rated for 220V at least new ceramic elements are available and not too expensive.
When i had few tools back in the day i used a cheap hand held iron and i added extra heat with a blow torch to get the boost for heavier soldering.

At first the fake glued over screw holes threw me off i drilled one out and could see there was no screws on the other side. It was the old screwdriver along the side trick as seen from the bent plastic in the above photos, if you were that bothered you could add heat with a heat gun and also even try some solvent once you get some of the edges up. The glue in the "Skyrich HJTX-9" same as the others ^^ was a bitch but i got it open with fairly little damage without one. Just skills i've adopted over the years i guess..