What's the best spot welder

Depends on what you look for. 220v then suunko 709ad.

Battery then kweld.
 
daromer said:
Depends on what you look for. 220v then suunko 709ad.

Battery then kweld.


OK thanks. Basically $280 on amazon. But not highly rated.

That's one of the problems I am having. Buying something highly rated as opposed to junk.

Or spending the money on plugins instead like Jehugarcia is now doing.

Any opinions on which way to go ?
 
dont know. We dont know anything on what your goal/aim is. Spot welding is alot faster than soldering. Its ALOT cheaper than using PCB boards and things. And if your goal is a proper powerwall or packs spot welding is they way to go.
 
I am quite happy with the sunko 709ad+ bought it for a good price. Nothing really bad about it. Sometimes blows my fuse :-D
 
malectrics 12 volt welder is good for the 100 dollar price. Uses any 12 volt lead acid or even a 3s battery(latest version) as power source. I get good welds on 0.015 nickle strip on power setting 4 (it goes as high as 9) . Just use 6 gauge pure copper welding cables for the probes for best results. If the welding cables are too thin or use copper clad wire, they get very hot and you have to use a higher power setting. With these 12 volt welders you don't have to worry about your house current being adequate. 12 volt battery easily provides the amps needed.

picture of my welder, this is the older version, the new malectrics is much improve but still cost the same. Very compact and easy to store when not in use. I use xt90 connectors to connect to a 12 volt agm battery. Note how I put the trigger switch right on the probe tip, the probe tips are copper nails, they are cheap and work excellent as tips. I paid about 20 dollars for 6 gauge pure copper wire, easily a major improvement over the 8 gauge speaker wire I was using.

image_yucbvm.jpg
 
Got the Malectrics kit for Xmas. Seems pretty good so far. Trust it way more than some cheap Chinese one for the same money.
 
Still working on it. Small list. Would appreciate any other user comments for each one.

SUNKKO 709A, 709AD and 709AD+ - What's the difference and which one should I shortlist.

KWeld

Malectrics kit.

OK - Disregard. I just ordered the Malectrics kit.

Thanks for all the help.

Always difficult to know what to choose. But price was important and I have a battery and looked at lot's of comments and reviews for all the products listed above.

Thanks again.
 
709ad is digital. ad+ have some more touch buttons kind of.
Same content inside.
 
Thanks Daromer.

We were typing at the same time, I think.

I added to my previous post.

Went for the Malectrics kit.
 
I think you'll like the Malectrics. I've got >8000 welds on mine so far. No problems whatsoever welding 0.015 nickel strip, 30AWG tinned copper fuse wire, and 3A axial glass fuses.
 
Has anyone made the spot welder from parts ordered from Mouser?

Did it work out cheaper than the already assembled unit direct from the EU?
 
I just purchased the Prebuilt unit from Malectrics.
Now to get the source battery before the welder arrives.
And Make some cables.
 
Ben aliexpress JST-IIS ald?m. 0,02 mm'ye kadar kaynak yapar.
50 usd prens

https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot...rderId=8000599773482320&productId=33046034467
[/quote]

These are Heavy and shipping is more than double the cost of the unit for me.
I looked at ordering from China, but decided to stay away for now because of the Corvid-19 delays and China shutdowns.

Was going to make the Malectrics spot welder by ordering the board direct from Germany, the parts from Mouser and the Arduino from China (arduino's localy are 10x more for some reason)
The Delay's from China tipped me in favour of buying directly from Germany.
 
I used a roll of copper tubing from Lowes and a hammer to create my homemade busbars. Much cheaper and easy to get the diameter needed (about 16-18 mm) for this application. Not sure if it will work well, but I literally used crazy glue to attach the copper bus bars to the plastic cell holders. This allowed me to solder everything to the bus bar first with zero heat applied to the individual cells. I then spot welded the fuses and added the BMS.
 
I Ordered and received the Malectrics spot welder. Decided it was too much of a risk getting parts from China at this time and couldn't source the Arduino locally.

Found out the car battery I was going to use isn't any good. Just received another battery today and was able to make my first spot welds.

I am having no problem spot welding Copper wire and the Glass fuse wires to my cells.

Did have a few issues at startup and blew an nice crater in a cell + end. It appears that it's best to have the foot switch. I slipped and one lead was directly on the cell when the automatic trigger went.
 
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