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sustainholmes

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Apr 28, 2020
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hi so I just took delivery of my brand new MPP PIP-3024GK PF1.0 series hybrid inverter.

However I think I made a mistake. (I am learning). I assumed that it can give me 3kw of solar, and if there is any additional load above 3kw, that it can somehow bypass this from grid. but I didn't know that the 3kw on the inverter is the maximum solar + utility or visa versa it can put out so I cant have absolutely everything connected to it??. this means that If I wanted to plug this thing it into the MDF it will overload if the wifey throws clothes in the dryer?!

so is there a special trick or is there another way that I can wire it to have a load bypass instead of using the built in circuitry?. or do I basically have to wire only certain things to the output of the unit like... for eg. lights, powerpoints. but no stove or dryer.

I have not connected it yet. still designing the wiring and how it will work, so I can tell the sparky what to wire up.

Cheers,

D
 
You could set up 2 sub-panels. 1 is solar/inverter, and the other is mains.

There are also Auto-Transfer Switches. But they usually switch under conditions of when power is no longer available, like mains is offline or battery power is too low.
However, if you use contactors you could configure to auto transfer non-sensitive loads.

Look up daromers (DIY Tech & Repairs) videos on YT and search for "contactor" to get ideas on how to configure it.
 
Best is to buy an inverter that can do it properly. Switching is last resort and the inverter have built in ats. Note that thid is also not rated to switch constantly during full loaf
 
daromer said:
Best is to buy an inverter that can do it properly. Switching is last resort and the inverter have built in ats. Note that thid is also not rated to switch constantly during full loaf


ATS?? what is..
 
ATS = Automatic Transfer Switch
 
sustainholmes said:
daromer said:
Best is to buy an inverter that can do it properly. Switching is last resort and the inverter have built in ats. Note that thid is also not rated to switch constantly during full loaf


ATS?? what is..

Korishan said:
ATS = Automatic Transfer Switch
Some examples of ATSs that I use
- Go Power! (30a@ 120v) -https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00153EYTO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-
Progressive Dynamics (50a @ 240v) -https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0136U0QU4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

T
hese have a shore (grid) side and a generator (inverter) side on the input and then power out - like a Y. When an inverterturns on / provides power, the ATS senses the power and automatically switches over to the inverter power. When the inverter turns off, it automatically switchs back to grid.

My system is 100% off-grid and when the battery voltage reaches X the inverter goes on and when the battery voltage drops to Y the inverter turns off -and I use several ATSs (of the types above)to provide the inverter power to circuits around the house.

One of the downsides of ATS is that computer/tv (senstative) equipment willpower off as the power switches over- so you need UPS(s) to smooth the transitions between inverter and shore power.
 
OffGridInTheCity said:
One of the downsides of ATS is that computer/tv (senstative) equipment willpower off as the power switches over- so you need UPS(s) to smooth the transitions between inverter and shore power.

This isn't "always" true. Daromers transfer switches can fully switch over in about 10m or less. Which is within the buffer range of the computers. Do they like it? Maybe not entirely. The wave form is interrupted and reset during the transfer.
 
20ms is more the timeframe of most ATS switches. And yes switching between 2 sources that arent synced... Can result in some magic smoke...
 
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