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LG LGDAS31865 Cell Specifications
#1
Warning: The information in this thread was obtained from various sources on the Internet, including any datasheets linked below, and is provided for reference only. It is not guaranteed to be accurate. To prevent fire or personal injury, never charge or discharge a cell before verifying the information yourself using the original specifications sheet provided by the manufacturer.

Brand:LG
Model:LGDAS31865 (ICR18650S3)
Capacity:2200mAh Rated
Voltage:3.60V Nominal
Charging:4.20V Maximum
1075mA Standard
2150mA Maximum
Discharging:3.00V Cutoff
430mA Standard
3225mA Maximum
Description:Blue Cell Wrapper
White Insulator Ring
18650 Form Factor

Data References:
http://www.meircell.co.il/files/LG%20ICR18650S3.pdf

Pictures:
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#2
I found 2 variants of the same model

mike likes this post
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#3
Variants with three line print

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#4
These cells are really good.  Wink
I used them between 4.25v to 2.88v *
without loss of performance.. or loss of work time between recarges.. (that i noticed at least)
          * 2.88v Voltage trigger of the Voltage detector MicroChip TC54 IC

But this cell's have (to my point of view) a great weakness...
some  kind of "bimetal fuse" (I think)

When you exceed his amper peak capacity.. for too long..
you hear a very audible "snap" (similar to when you broke a pencil)
and the cell dies completely .. Voltage 0 .. even when a second before you have 4 volt's or more..

I recommend use this ones only for constant consumption .. electronic consumption .. resistive consumption..
i test this ones with a wire resistor.. 1.6Amp of consumption .. and they are fine..
barely warm when it goes under 3.5volts...

I do not recommend using it with a device that produces consumption peaks .. such as motor..
...
Greetings from Argentina... Ramidileo.sys
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#5
What you are hearing is the CID pop, effectively creating a gap between the positive cap and the positive electrode of the cell. It's not a weakness, it's actually quite beneficial in that the cell cuts power before it can reach pressures that will make it explode or go into thermal runaway. The CID can be reset, but the cell has likely been damaged permanently and the CID may not trigger in a future high pressure event.
Formerly known as Dallski
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#6
(04-20-2019, 11:25 PM)Dallski Wrote: What you are hearing is the CID pop, effectively creating a gap between the positive cap and the positive electrode of the cell. It's not a weakness, it's actually quite beneficial in that the cell cuts power before it can reach pressures that will make it explode or go into thermal runaway. The CID can be reset, but the cell has likely been damaged permanently and the CID may not trigger in a future high pressure event.

thanks Dallski...
CID  Current Interruptor Device... ¿right?
I knew was something there ... I just did not know his name ..  Wink

"The CID can be reset..."
any good video or tutorial of how to do that??  Confused

-----
added 41 minutes later...

what bothers me.. is that sometimes you hear them snap..
and they are even hot.. barely warm..
and on the same task .. with the same motor or tool.. other cells like Lishen LS or Shenzhen BAK do not have any problem...
-----
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#7
Yes, Current Interruptor Device. HBPowerwall (this forum's creator) had a video about resetting CIDs, it's on youtube https://youtu.be/cILuXf3N5jQ

These LG cells are "the bottom of the barrel" offering from LG. They are extreme budget cells to keep the laptop battery manufacturers from going the Chinese route. They are only rated for 300 cycles, and maximum discharge is 1.5C. Most decent cells that LG and the other name brand manufacturers produce will do at least 2C and will be rated for 500 cycles. In my testing of these cells, I have done 200 cycles of this cell and have only experienced 5.5% degradation, so they are not that bad. But do not use them for any high current applications.
Formerly known as Dallski
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#8
I apologize if I'm posting this in the wrong place..it is not my intention to hijack this thread.

Hi...I stumbled upon this forum via a google search.
I'm trying to repair a product called a "HyperJuice" external laptop / tablet battery made by a company called Sanho
I dissassembled the device and I found 12 of these LG 18650 batteries
I'm not an expert on this stuff, I'm more of an IT / compsci guy...but I know my way around a multimeter.

See pic below -- 



If anyone can like...idk offer some suggestions on what to test and what to look for, in regards to if there are 1 or more batteries in this circuit that have died and need to be replaced, I'd be eternally grateful.  I have a multimeter that does DC.

Here are the values that I am getting when I put one of the multimeter leads on the far right black wire end and the other on the board pin from left to right

1 5.73 V (labeled B3+)
2 5.73 V (labeled B3+)
3 3.50 V (labeled B2+)
4 1.78 V (labeled B1+)

The rest all read 0

I think maybe the problem is not with the batteries :|  Oh well
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#9
(04-20-2019, 07:48 AM)ramdileo Wrote: When you exceed his amper peak capacity.. for too long..
you hear a very audible "snap" (similar to when you broke a pencil)
and the cell dies completely .. Voltage 0 .. even when a second before you have 4 volt's or more..


By how much did you exceed it's current rating? Would it be safe to pull 3.5Amps out of them?

(10-13-2019, 06:09 PM)Niqyek Wrote: If anyone can like...idk offer some suggestions on what to test and what to look for, in regards to if there are 1 or more batteries in this circuit that have died and need to be replaced, I'd be eternally grateful.  I have a multimeter that does DC.

Here are the values that I am getting when I put one of the multimeter leads on the far right black wire end and the other on the board pin from left to right

1 5.73 W (labeled B3+)
2 5.73 W (labeled B3+)
3 3.50 W (labeled B2+)
4 1.78 W (labeled B1+)

I seems like you don't even know how to properly use a multimeter. It does not measure W(Watts). I suggest you to tear them apart and measure them one by one.
Niqyek likes this post
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#10
You're absolutely right reckless -- my bad, I meant Volts
I drew this diagram of the circuit



Anyway...I managed to revive this, by charging the segments individually with a nitecore charger that I use for my vape batteries
I did each segment of four for about 4 hours with that charger, and the next day I plugged the controller board back in

The controller board was then able to turn on and take it the rest of the way up to 96% using its AC adapter

Here's the conundrum I'm in now though...I'd like to replace these batteries (all of them, might as well) and get new ones and use this again when I travel to power my laptop & phone

However the batteries are all welded together

I can get used batteries that are tested and similar to these for cheap (actually from site from an ad on this forum, thanks!), but they don't come with tabs welded to them or wires on the terminals ... I see there are some eBay sellers who do sell batteries with tabs welded on the terminals, but they're way more expensive...like wayyyyyy more.  And I need 12 of them.

I see there are some DIY solutions for people who make their own bike batteries, and they look pretty neat, but none of them that I've seen will work, the case is too small

Here's what it looks like:

Any ideas?
I suppose at the end of the day I could just use electrical tape and tape some copper wires to the terminals of each battery...but that's not very elegant :|
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