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Fixing Stuff
Before I throw broken stuff away, I like to try and fix it first. Sometimes I save money. Sometimes I don't. I usually end up with a new tool and sometimes I even learn something.

So here's my latest fix it project. A while back I bought a Black and Decker electric screwdriver. Comes in really handy when I don't want to go find my full sized hand drill. Or it did until it stopped charging.

Well, the thing is powered by 3 AA NiCd 800mAh batteries in series. One cell was completely dead. The other two were pretty far gone, and I decided to replace all three.

I've been using Tenergy NiMH cells for a while and I like them. So I decided to try out their NiCds as replacements.

The new battery is kind of ugly, but it works.

Got it crammed into the allotted space. 

And it works!

At this point I decided to address the charging system. I was a bit confused to learn that the power brick sends out AC current. I guess there's a diode in the wiring somewhere inside the tool.

Yep there's a diode in there under the shrink wrap.

The new charger will be DC current, so the diode is no longer needed.

Also, the barrel connector for the charger is an odd proprietary size. I'm swapping it out with a more standard 5.5x2.5mm one.

Finally, the cable connector is just a bit shorter than the original, which prevents a good connection.

I removed around 1/8" of the finger-holdy bit (that's a technical term) and now it snaps right into place.

Seems quite happy on the iMax charger. And the old charger can be saved for some future thing I don't know about yet.
hbpowerwall, Redpacket, Korishan like this post
-Mike G
Good job and well done for saving another piece from the landfill throw away society we all live in.
rebelrider.mike likes this post
This next one might be improving more than fixing. But I'll share anyway.

My first GPS was a Garmin Nuvi, and I really like it until it refused to turn on one day. I bought a replacement battery, but the unit remained dead. Then it got put on the shelf, and I bought a newer model Nuvi, the 40L, and began enjoying all the improvements that the new model had to offer. Unfortunately, the battery in this unit, which has never lasted more than 2 hours or so, began to have less and less capacity per charge, and also started discharging while the unit was off.

I almost bought a new battery, but remembered I had two good ones sitting in a closet somewhere. So I dug those out and made some comparisons.

The battery for the old unit was physically larger, and had more capacity than the newer one! Shame on you Garmin!
Same Volts, same connector. I decided to use the old battery, since it was basically NOS, and higher capacity. Only problem was that it didn't quite fit in the case. But after removing a few of the structural tabs, or whatever they are, the bigger battery fits perfect.

It worked, and had 3/4 of a charge after sitting for several years. Probably wasn't fully charged to begin with. Also, the tools they sent with the old replacement battery worked on the newer Nuvi, so that was a bonus. Now I have probably the only Garmin Nuvi 40L that will run on battery for 4 hours. (And in fact, it does!)
-Mike G
This one's a little different. The transmission on my old lawn mower broke a couple days ago, and I decided to try to repair it.
I know very little about transmissions, and in fact, I find them a bit intimidating. But this one is very small and simple, from a walk-behind mower, so I thought I'd give it a try. Getting it off the mower was easy enough:

So the short shaft (drive shaft?) is driven by a belt and pulley on the outside of the gearbox. The gears (I think they might be called pinions?) are fixed to the shaft and can only rotate with the shaft. I found right away that the one with 25 teeth only had 23. Obviously a hokey player.

The other shaft I think is called the counter shaft. The gears on it move freely until one is selected by the shifter keys. One of which is broken.

That little bit on the end is important, because without it, the key will be pushed all the way in via the shift ring but it can't be retracted again. Also, those notches on the end hold a spring clip which squeezes them into notches causing them to engage with the desired gear once the key is in the proper position. So with no tension on the spring, there is no engagement and thus no wedding. I mean movement of the wheels.

The whole thing is lubricated with black (moly?) grease, which I had to go through to find the missing bits so they don't jam into anything later. What a mess!
But I got it all apart and more or less cleaned up.

So the really great and wonderful thing is that even though this mower is a 91, I was able to find parts for it! They're in the mail and should show up this week.
I'm very excited to fix my very first transmission! And as I'm doing this, I'm even learning about how it actually works, which is so worth it. Smile
2146 likes this post
-Mike G
I would take the opportunity to convert it to an 18650 emower Smile
 CyberWall #1 DC2DC 7S80P 2300mAh avg Cell #2 DC2AC 7S80P 2200mAh avg Cell LG MF1
Chargers: 1xEV-Peak CQ3 400W 4 Chan(with DIY 6S cradle allowing 4x6S1-3P) 7x Foxnovo 4S  -- 20xTP4056
[diy Wrote:uuyamu[/diy] Scepterr pid='9945' dateline='1500950744']I would take the opportunity to convert it to an 18650 emower Smile

Blew up my twin cyl engine a while back and decided to make it electric. We use it to pull a 62 inch mower deck.  Still got a lot of work to do to it. but she runs, and its very quiet Smile.

It is not powered by 18650s yet but maybe some day.

Sorry bout the duplicates in pictures. Didn't see it adding them to the post.

Parts came in, and now the transmission works!
I took video of the assembly, but its pretty long. Even after editing. Feel free to skip around or use it as a cure for insomnia:
2146 likes this post
-Mike G
My desk fan quit spinning, and I'm too cheap to buy a new one! Sad

I've had it apart a couple times to clean out the motor and re-lube the bearings, but this time I decided to take it a step further.
This time I polished up the drive shaft and the bearings with some 800 and 1000 grit sandpaper and a little oil.

You can't tell from the picture, but here's the fan working!  Smile  Spins really nice now.

I used to have to start it on High and give it a little nudge to get it going. Now I can start it on Low and it spins up by itself. I'm interested to see how long this fix will last compared to just putting new oil on the bearings.
-Mike G
For the transmission terms, the differential part is where the ring and pinion are. The ring gear connects to the output shaft and is the largest gear of what I can see in the photos (90 degree stryle gear) and the pinion is the smaller gear that drives it. I'm not sure what the transmission gears are called, probably just based on what gear set they are from if it's a multi speed transmission.

I do similar as you, if something doesn't work I'll be pulling it apart and seeing what's useful or fixable. Both my car and my truck were "dead" when I got them. The pickup had a bad ecu from a rust hole in the front fender well and salt water shorted it out. Didn't have the right part and a similar (not correct) one ran $250+ on ebay. I had another ECU from the same truck but automatic trans instead of manual. $15 for the wire harness diagram and some time to match the pinouts up, it runs better than any other pickup I've had with the same engine/trans setup. The car just needed normal repairs like struts, tires, alignment, and tune up from being neglected. Happily have gotten 78k miles out of the car so far and is sitting at 303k miles. I'm sure the engine/trans won't be the first thing to fail since I live up north in Michigan, we have major rust issues and this car is showing signs of it.
rebelrider.mike likes this post
My first attempt at really restoring something, as opposed to just fixing it up:

Also my first try at making a silent video and adding music to the background. So the music didn't go so well. I found a few songs I wanted in You Tube's list, but I couldn't figure out how to add more than one to the video. So it just ends a couple minutes in, and y'all have to watch the rest in actual silence.

Also, as it's silent, may as well speed it up so folks don't get (as) bored watching it.

The subject itself though, is an old Black & Decker 1/2" drill I found at my local Habitat store. It worked ok, but it was all rusty and covered with paint and crud. Also, the stickers were all chewed up. Definitely a well used and slightly neglected tool.

It worked fine once I got it home, but I figured I'd take it apart and clean it up.

The hardest part for me, is getting the wires all back where they go. I sort of know how the motor works, but not well enough to have an intuitive sense for what each wire does. Fortunately, there are digital cameras.

Finally got it all apart. I had to watch a few videos on how to get the chuck off. The hex wrench and hammer method wasn't working, so I used an electric impact driver. Love that tool!
Also had to watch a few videos to figure out how to get the chuck apart. Lots of people clean them up as a single part, or replace them, but I wanted to be thorough.
The stator was riveted in, so I had to drill those out and find bolts that were long and skinny enough to replace them. Everything else was pretty straight-forward.

I ended up sanding and polishing all the paint and crud off the plastic parts. The steel parts cleaned up great, and I plated and polished them. The aluminum housing, I wanted to paint. The primer went on great, but the paint I used didn't seem to want to cure, even after a few days. By the time I got everything back together, It was smudged, scratched, and had finger prints pressed into it. I ended up stripping it and polishing it.

Not pictured is my attempt at putting white paint back into the lettering that's sunk into the back of the handle. What's that called anyway? Sunken lettering. Embossed is raised lettering, right? Inlayed? Anyway, sunken lettering. It went ok. I used some enamel paint and sandpaper. I found out later that most people use nail polish and acetone-free nail polish remover. I'll try that next time.

I also made up my own way of making new stickers. I'm sure there's a better way, but I designed new ones as close to the old ones as I could in PowerPoint, and made a few prints until I got the best results I could with my printer. Used double stick tape to stick them to the drill, and put packing tape over them to protect the paper.

I had to get a new chuck key. Also, this was a Christmas gift to my son who is just about half way through college. So he'll be needing stuff like this when he's out on his own. To get him started, I threw in some cheap drill and screw driver bits.

Also, there was a socket for a side handle, but no handle, so i made one out of a bolt, wood, an old handlebar grip, and some JB Weld. 

I'd like to make a better repair on the power cord someday. The outer jacket came apart right at the end by the handle. But the wires and their jackets were fine. Each end was too bulky to fit shrink wrap over it. I did a lot of searching, but only found various products that are basically electrical tape. So I wrapped it in electrical tape, and tied that off with some stainless wire to keep it from unwrapping. Hopefully, I'll come up with a better solution in the future.

Other than the power cord, I think the restoration is pretty good. Considering I don't really know what I'm doing. Smile
Redpacket and Korishan like this post
-Mike G

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