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Laptop Powered E-Bike
#31
The only reason the 400A is turn over a motor that's under compression multiple times. Moving you and the bikes weight would be nothing in comparison to the torque needed.

Starter motors are not designed to run continuously, correct. However, you could probably cut some of the metal shell off, or, better yet, add some heatsink to it. That would help get rid of the heat. Mount it so that the air would blow over the heatsink while moving.
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#32
(12-27-2018, 02:06 AM)Korishan Wrote: The only reason the 400A is turn over a motor that's under compression multiple times. Moving you and the bikes weight would be nothing in comparison to the torque needed.

Starter motors are not designed to run continuously, correct. However, you could probably cut some of the metal shell off, or, better yet, add some heatsink to it. That would help get rid of the heat. Mount it so that the air would blow over the heatsink while moving.

There are videos on YouTube that explain how to turn an alternator into an electric motor. And alternators are designed to run continuously.
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#33
An alternator is not a starter Wink I know alternators can run continuously. But he didn't say he was using an alt, but using a starter.

Now, if rebel mike can get an alt and convert it over, that'd be a far better option.
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#34
The time has been approaching to dismantle my original batteries that I build for the eBike. I suppose I got ahead of myself building the batteries before getting the motor. Since I'll be using a different motor, with different power requirements, these batteries are now useless, so the cells will be better off separated and ready to use for future projects. 


I mentioned earlier that the modem cells I got from BatteryHookup.com are Samsung ICR18650-22F. I went through my stash of good cells, and the cells recovered from the defunkt ebike batteries, and came up with an additional 27 identical to the ones from the modem batteries. Not quite done with testing, but it looks like I'll have 127 identical cells to work with for the new eBike battery.


But I've learned my lesson: I won't be doing any soldering until I've got the actual motor installed on the bike. Especially as now I'm experimenting with unorthodox motors and won't know anything for sure until it's done.
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-Mike G
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#35
Well, I ended up with 132 of the same type of cell, all of which passed testing! The best 128 will get used in the new battery.

I finally took some actual measurements to see what kind of space I've got available in the triangular space in the middle of the bike. Since I've changed my plans, as well as the cells I'm using, I want to put the battery in the triangular section. I got lengths and angles, and It looks like I can make the battery fit.

Here's the new idea as to how the components will go in the bike:


I spent quite a while thinking of exactly how I want to wire things up. I want to use a PWM controller with a remote Potentiometer to control the current to the motor. I also want to use a momentary on switch to turn the motor on and off as I ride. Rather than routing the battery power to the handlebar and then to the motor, I plan to use a relay so I can put little wires to the on/off switch, and thick short wires from the battery to the motor.

Anyway, a diagram will probably make more sense than me writing about it:


Each cell will have a fuse, and the battery will have a fuse. I'll also be using a BMS. Not sure if the motor really needs it's own on/off switch, but I think I want to put a toggle switch somewhere.

I also made a lot of progress on the motor today. Maybe I'll make a video of it. More on that later...
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-Mike G
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#36
Kewls!

I hope the little blue guy isn't an accurate depiction of the rider Tongue

Correct, you don't want to run the power wires up to the handle bars and then back to the motor. Not only is that a lot of extra wiring, but it'd also make steering a little more difficult as the wire would have to be 1 or 2 sizes larger for the double run to minimize losses. Large gauge wire doesn't like to flex all that well, and I doubt you'll use welding wiring for this project (altho, it wouldn't hurt, just be a little pricey)

For the momentary switch/relay, is that so you can get full power when you want without going through the controller? If not, I don't see why you'd have an extra switch. The controller should go 100% duty cycle on the PWM on full throttle.
You could just put the power button right on the battery pack, or right at the controller. It's not like you'd be operating the switch 10's of times a day like a delivery service (or are you?)
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#37
I decided to get back into video recording my projects. Nothing fancy or professional, but hopefully not too awful either.

Anyway, here is part 1 of the dirt cheap ebike project:


Korishan, to answer your question: I want a "dead man" switch on the handle bar to cut power to the motor the instant I take my hand away for whatever reason. I'm not sure yet if the starter motor will work for me, but whatever motor I use, I'm hoping that I can pedal more often than being dependent on the motor. It's all just ideas for now.
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#38
Ohhh, ok. Now the "dead-man" switch I understand. Like one of those keys that are fastened to your wrist/ankle on snowboarders and jetskis. Got it! Smile

You did a pretty good job on the video. Only issue I saw, well more like heard, was that the sound was too low. Even having my volume boosted and turned up, I had a hard time hearing you. If you use your cell phone to do the recording, see about getting a bluetooth headset and record your audio that way. That's how I do mine most of the time and the sound is super clear.
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#39
Thanks Korishan,
I boosted the volume while editing, but I'll have to boost it more. I guess part of the problem is my computer volume is super loud. I keep the volume around 5-10% and I still often have to turn the volume on YouTube down when I watch. I'll keep it in mind for future videos. 

In the meantime, here is a second installment:


Jury's still out on whether this motor will even work, but I still give it a solid "maybe", LOL.
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#40
Another video! Startin to crank them out Wink

The audio is still really low. Maybe you should test the audio on your cell before making the video live. That way you can hear the actual volume. I have Harmon Kardon powered speakers, a Volume Booster extension for Chrome. I still had to turn YT audio to 100%, system volume to 100% to hear things clearly.

That massive heatsink you have will work great. Especially if you were able to mount the motor so that it was parallel to the bike (this would make needing a spider gear to drive the bike, tho)

With the springs on rotor, you should probably leave them alone. Less contact means more potential for spark which will burn up the commutator and brushes faster. The heat would be better to deal with than having to replace the commutator contact pads. IMHO

As for the bearings, I would recommend upgrading them to high output bearings. Remember, the original design of the starter was for minimal use. Maybe the entire life time of a starter, the bearings would be engaged for about 5 seconds at a time, and average 6 times a day. If we figure 6 days a week, that comes to about 180 - 200 seconds per week, or 9,360 seconds a year. This would be a total 156 hours of run time. This isn't much in the life of a standard bearing. However, see if you can find the numbers stamped on the bearings you have to see what grade they are.
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