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Two TP4056 Questions
#11
I use my RC charger and LiPo storage charge to store my batteries. You can parallel batteries if you like. I have found this charger to be very accurate for a cheap unit. It is great for charging batteries, I parallel up to 8 at a time, it will charge at 6a, and discharge at 1a. It also does capacity checking and cycling. Its a great companion for my Opus. Reverse polarity protection, and even thermal protection, if you buy a temp sensor.
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#12
(10-11-2017, 11:14 PM)watts-on Wrote:
(10-11-2017, 10:51 PM)Eric Koshinsky Wrote: .... (or ask nicely if you have sketch plans ;-)

Ok, since you asked nicely... Blush


This is exactly what Rudy and I were talkin about in slack channel  Smile Thanks for answering it!

@Eric: You might wanna double check your ratings of the PSU's you've been looking at. When advertised, the PSU's are usually rated at 12V @ X Amps. But when you look at the specs of it, the 5V rail is usually a lot higher. So the 12A one you looked at might be on the 12V rail. Check to see what the 5V rail is rated at.
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#13
That is what I have been doing with my hobby charger - 12 in parallel. Works fine. Problem is I have about 1200 batteries to put into storage charge and one hobby charger. I have 60 TP4056 I could possibly use to speed up the process.
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#14
(10-11-2017, 10:39 PM)watts-on Wrote:
(10-11-2017, 05:39 PM)Eric Koshinsky Wrote: Question 1: Is there any way to easily use these to charge up to storage state (3.7v) and stop?  I don't really want to add an arduino or anything...just a simple solution if possible.

I stop mine charging at 4V using a schottky diode, with a 0.2V forward voltage in series with the battery. I also added a switch across the diode so I can easily choose 4V for storage or 4.2V for testing.
It seems to confuse the TP4056 slightly in that both the red and green leds light up sometimes when it hits 4V, but other that that it works great.
I guess a diode with a FV of 0.5V may work to get you 3.7V, but I haven't tried it.


I didn't need to use those huge diodes (40L15CW), but I had free access to some, so they were the right ones. Big Grin

Hi Watts-on, do you find the 0.2 volt drop quite consistent? Are all your charge circuits ending up accurately at 4.0 volts? Do the diodes affect the charge cut off feature?
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#15
Korishan, you're correct if talking about PSU's made for desktop computers (other one's too I imagine). I haven't tried using one yet for our 'non-standard' purposes. I'm not sure about the wiring in them and don't want to get myself into electrical trouble. It's probably easier than I think though.
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#16
(10-12-2017, 07:35 AM)Eric Koshinsky Wrote: Korishan, you're correct if talking about PSU's made for desktop computers (other one's too I imagine).  I haven't tried using one yet for our 'non-standard' purposes.  I'm not sure about the wiring in them and don't want to get myself into electrical trouble.  It's probably easier than I think though.

That it is. Easy as. Just Google  atx pinout. Don't forget you may need a 12v load. YouTube has hundreds of videos on using atx psu for bench supply
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#17
Basically this all depends on how old the power supply is. Newer ones usually don't need a 12V load but don't have much oomph at 5V because that is rarely needed with recent hardware. Older ones have quite chunky 5V rails (and 3.3V for that matter) because back in the days much more stuff inside a computer ran on 5V. And those old ones need any 12V load to start sometimes.
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#18
(10-12-2017, 09:43 AM)Geek Wrote:
(10-12-2017, 07:35 AM)Eric Koshinsky Wrote: Korishan, you're correct if talking about PSU's made for desktop computers (other one's too I imagine).  I haven't tried using one yet for our 'non-standard' purposes.  I'm not sure about the wiring in them and don't want to get myself into electrical trouble.  It's probably easier than I think though.

That it is. Easy as. Just Google  atx pinout. Don't forget you may need a 12v load. YouTube has hundreds of videos on using atx psu for bench supply

no magic, no need for pinout: black=ground, yellow=12V, red=5V, orange=3.3V. And don't forget to connect the green wire to ground in order to turn it on Wink . I recommend using a 12V load in order to stabilize the other voltages, i.e. OPUS chargers:


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#19
(10-12-2017, 12:29 AM)Korishan Wrote: This is exactly what Rudy and I were talkin about in slack channel  Smile Thanks for answering it!

I've no idea what slack channel is, but, your welcome. Smile

(10-12-2017, 04:29 AM)Rad Wrote: Hi Watts-on, do you find the 0.2 volt drop quite consistent? Are all your charge circuits ending up accurately at 4.0 volts?

I just finished storage charging half a dozen cells and the final voltages are:
4.040  4.020  4.038  4.032  4.045  4.020
So, for my purposes that is certainly close enough.

(10-12-2017, 04:29 AM)Rad Wrote: Do the diodes affect the charge cut off feature?

I haven't done any thorough analysis of exactly whats happening. It was just a mad idea I had one day, tried it and presto.. charging stops ~4V.  Cool
Rad and Korishan like this post
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#20
Oooh. Thank you. This is awesome. Never thought about it.
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