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Dave's Build Thread
#11
What are you doing for bus bars?
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#12
(07-03-2018, 01:59 PM)zag2me Wrote: What are you doing for bus bars?

Nickel strips.

I've got a lot of 8mm x 0.1mm nickel which should be good for 4 or 5 amps. So my plan is to run 4 strips per 20 pack, so 5 cells per strip. Should be ok for 1 amp per cell, even though I don't plan to go anywhere near this high. 
Now due to my 20 pack style and that there are currently 3 packs in parallel for 60p, I will run the nickel busbar above and below the pack to I can join the pack below to the string. It will just be a plate with a hole in it. Probably made from copper with the nickel strips soldered to it. Or brazed if required. I plan to work out the method within the next few weeks.
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#13
I've made some progress recently. I've completed the Pack connection for the first row. So that's 14S20P that can be used. Honestly, I'm regretting the 20 cell pack strategy. Each pack took an hour to finish. Its a combination of spot welding and soldering. I presume I could have done an 80 cell pack in about the same time. Hey ho. I still like the way it looks.
now have a Voltacon 4048MS, so basically a pip4048MS. Only went with that because I got it cheaper than the pip on an auction.
I've ordered:
-35mm2 battery cable, 
-lugs, 
-crimp tool, 
-stainless nuts and bolts for terminal connections, 
-40A DC breaker for the solar, 125A DC Breaker for battery connection, 
-DIN rails, 
-2x 15mm x 3mm copper bar as my main busbars left and right side of the wall.
-MC4 Connectors,
-Cable trunking
And got 6mm2 solar able from sonic (cheers dude)

I've also mounted a monitor next to the inverter ready for a pc. I'm looking at options for that. Will probably get a second hand NUC as they are pretty small and low powered.
Also yet to order BMS.

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#14
Looking good. Nice list of parts on order.
Altho, 1 thing to state, Stainless Steel is probably not the best. However, if you are only using that to clamp two pieces of copper together (or tinned copper), then that's fine. Just don't try to rely on the SS to carry the current Wink

Waiting for the next phase of the build Smile
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#15
(07-11-2018, 11:06 AM)Korishan Wrote: Just don't try to rely on the SS to carry the current  Wink
Good point. I did consider this and believe I don't need the bolt to carry current. The cable should be good for 200A and I'll only ever be putting a max 100A continuous through it. But sizing the terminal for 200A just requires that the contact area with my busbar should exceed 35mm2, which it had better do! I'll measure them when they arrive.

(07-11-2018, 11:06 AM)Korishan Wrote: Waiting for the next phase of the build  Smile
Me too!!! 


On a separate note - I'm off to Goodwood Festival of speed tomorrow, purely to get my eyes on the Tesla Model 3. First time in Europe I hear. So exciting!
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#16
The 35mm2 crimp lugs finally arrived today, so I was able to terminate the battery cables. Rigged it up and switched it on. Apart from the one teething issue with the inverter being in parallel mode, which I don't want, its all looking good. WatchPower sees the inverter and reports status ok.
So with that milestone done, I have ordered the BMS. It took many hours of deliberating, but I've opted for the Batrium 14x longmon starter kit (no shunt). I also ordered a spare longmon, you know...just in case I break one.

I plan to just run the garage off grid for a while before getting electrician in to wire up the house for it. It will give me an opportunity to feel out the battery and make sure its performing well enough for the larger load.
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#17
With the 4048MS would that be enough to run the house ? The fridge compressor is the main issue in my mind, not on it's own more of the case when you have the kettle on (2kW) a couple of lights, the computer, etc. so you have an extra 400W, at 2.4kW the inverter is nice and happy and then it get s a kick in the nuts with the fridge switching on..

I tried out running the saw on a 2.2kVA UPS as it has a soft start and it started up, then freaked and overloaded and switched off out because of the reactive power from the motor. That was without trying to cut anything, hence my question about fridge compressors and a like with inverters.

What is the largest or most challenging load any powerwallers are running on which units ? Appart from the large 10kVA units :-)

Did you get to see the M3 ?
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#18
(07-14-2018, 12:18 AM)completelycharged Wrote: With the 4048MS would that be enough to run the house ? The fridge compressor is the main issue in my mind, not on it's own more of the case when you have the kettle on (2kW) a couple of lights, the computer, etc. so you have an extra 400W, at 2.4kW the inverter is nice and happy and then it get s a kick in the nuts with the fridge switching on..

I tried out running the saw on a 2.2kVA UPS as it has a soft start and it started up, then freaked and overloaded and switched off out because of the reactive power from the motor. That was without trying to cut anything, hence my question about fridge compressors and a like with inverters.

What is the largest or most challenging load any powerwallers are running on which units ? Appart from the large 10kVA units :-)

Did you get to see the M3 ?

It sure won't be big enough to run the whole house. I've got an electric range cooker that could potentially call for 7kw of power will all ovens switched on simultaneously and I have a 9.5kw electric shower. So those items are certainly not within the scope of the 4048MS. But everything else.... my honest answer is I don't know if 4kw is enough for peak loads. I've certainly never see my power meter go over 4kw, but it might be more frequent than I realise. So my plan has always been to have switches for each of the house circuits so I can manually change from Genset to Mains. That will give me the freedom to play power manager  Big Grin

I've worked with motors before, and typical starting current is between 6 and 8 times running current. My kitchen fridge frezer is taking about 100W when running so I don't epect it to pull more than 1000w even when starting from warm. I do have a fridge freezer in the garage, which I can run some tests on. Really need to get me a plug-in watt meter!

The pip inverters can also give 2x surge current for a few seconds. So I could be near the rated 4000w and switch on the hoover and exceed the 4000w for a couple of seconds and it shouldn't cut out. But again, I'll be testing all this, as therory and practice often don't agree.

Yes, I got to see the model 3. Sat in the driver seat, and sat in the back. I'm in love and I want one  Big Grin
here's a pic I took. You like Teslas?


So more playing today. I hooked up 2 of the panels and stuck them in the garden, resting against various tables and kids toys! 
It works fine and was putting charge into the batteries. I'l keep an eye on voltages until the bms arrives.
I then really wanted to see some AC output but I don't want to unwire the garage consumer unit, so I pulled the breaker out and connected the inverter to the circuit using a suicide cable. Its just testing so....
But yes, it all works. Runs the fridge fine so far. Now i'm looking at VPN options so I can monitor it from my sofa  Big Grin
So far, its great to see my house baseload drop a lot already. It appears that the garage takes quite a bit of juice!
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#19
I left the garage to run over night. Voltage steadily dropped down to 48V and at 9am, sun came up and started charging. Such a good feeling!! Now want to see how quickly the batteries charge to full.
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#20
Black inverter looks good!
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