Conductive Epoxy

farmerjohn

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Apr 19, 2018
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Hey all,

I was just thinking of better and quicker ways to design and build a pack and I stumbled upon this stuff:

https://www.mgchemicals.com/product...s/two-part-epoxy/silver-conductive-epoxy-8331

Instead of soldering the cells to nickel or copper strips - why not glue them?

Could build a pack pretty quick by putting a dab on each cell and then laying down a strip -What do you think? Has anyone thought of this before?

Would make for a physically strong pack too
 
I've tried some of this ... it's just an epoxy with conductive particles added , it will just about conduct enough current to dimly light an led (a few mA) ... it will not work for the currents we want
 
Different brand , this type .... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wire-Glu...972979&hash=item48a38f7c7f:g:GKYAAOSwmcBa4nfX

It was a one part glue so couldn't have been an epoxy I used. My gut just tells me an epoxy will have a high resistance ... but I could be wrong , who knows you could revolutionize our production , so I wouldn't want to put you off experimenting ... I did notice the data sheet in your link was very lacking in examples of joints and their resistance .. listed applications were only "repair and assembly of electronics in microelectronics and optoelectronics." these operate at very low currents.
 
ozz93666 said:
Different brand , this type .... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wire-Glu...972979&hash=item48a38f7c7f:g:GKYAAOSwmcBa4nfX

It was a one part glue so couldn't have been an epoxy I used. My gut just tells me an epoxy will have a high resistance ... but I could be wrong , who knows you could revolutionize our production , so I wouldn't want to put you off experimenting ... I did notice the data sheet in your link was very lacking in examples of joints and their resistance .. listed applications were only "repair and assembly of electronics in microelectronics and optoelectronics." these operate at very low currents.

It boasts "Excellent 0.0007 ?cm electrical resistivity and 1.75 W/(mK) thermal conductivity " In the datasheet

I am using some carbon conductive grease from the same company and it handled 150 amps on a loose connection I had for several hours before I noticed

Not sure how well this compares.. but I would assume its the same or better than tiny fuse wires

Would be interesting to test it out
 
farmerjohn said:
ozz93666 said:
Different brand , this type .... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wire-Glu...972979&hash=item48a38f7c7f:g:GKYAAOSwmcBa4nfX

It was a one part glue so couldn't have been an epoxy I used. My gut just tells me an epoxy will have a high resistance ... but I could be wrong , who knows you could revolutionize our production , so I wouldn't want to put you off experimenting ... I did notice the data sheet in your link was very lacking in examples of joints and their resistance .. listed applications were only "repair and assembly of electronics in microelectronics and optoelectronics." these operate at very low currents.

"Excellent 0.0007 ?cm electrical resistivity "

Strange units to use ...perhaps to confuse ...it equals 0.000007 ohm meter.... 7 ten to the minus 6

copper is 1.7 ten to the minus 8 ... solder is 1.5 ten to theminus7

So that makes it 411 times more resistive than copper ......47 times more resistive than solder

It would be interesting to try , if the wire was pushed into contact with battery terminal and glued it may work .... but any space between the wire and terminal causing theglue to carry the full curent , I would bet it would smoke!
 
ozz93666 said:
Strange units to use ...perhaps to confuse ...it equals 0.000007 ohm meter.... 7 ten to the minus 6

copper is 1.7 ten to the minus 8 ... solder is 1.5 ten to theminus7

So that makes it 411 times more resistive than copper ......47 times more resistive than solder

It would be interesting to try , if the wire was pushed into contact with battery terminal and glued it may work .... but any space between the wire and terminal causing theglue to carry the full curent , I would bet it would smoke!

Yeah, I was wondering the same. But that does kinda confirm what I was stated earlier in chat about the comparison with solder. Solder is very resistive, too. But because it covers such a large area (compared to the wire), it can carry the load due to more material. A solder wire of said size would definitely not be able to carry the same max amps as a copper wire of the same said size.
 
I'm wondering how the epoxy would behave if the battery or copper became hot? At least with solder it's a known quantity, but having not read the expoxy specs what does it say about behaviour under high temperature?
 
Look at the price! Half the price of an el-cheapo spot welder for 14g!
 
gregoinc said:
I'm wondering how the epoxy would behave if the battery or copper became hot? At least with solder it's a known quantity, but having not read the expoxy specs what does it say about behaviour under high temperature?

According to the datasheet - it's working temp is good up till 150 degrees Celsius
 
why not use this to glue a 3*6 nickel coverd magnet on each side of the cell so it stays centerd. and then sandwich the nickelstrip with another magnet. make a dent in the strip in the form of the magnet. so the strip will stay in place.
You can even put a shrinktube over the cell and the magnet so less chances for the magnet to move.
It would just look like a big size AA Battery. kinda.

Im charging my cells with these magnets so im thinking why not make a pack with magnets like this
 
Magnets are poor conductors as they can't make a solid connection with the cell. Plus, the coating isn't pure nickel (assuming you mean neodymium magnets)

Magnets work great for charging w/o doing capacity checks. They could also be used for low mA loads. But anything with substantial requirements they would have too much voltage drop and resistance.
 
yea i tought about these neodymium magnets.
So just get more cells in paralell to keep the current low. Would be really nice to have a setup with easy swapable cells. aspecialliy if ur using used cells. And they are really cheap 150 pieces for about 10

i only could find this online:
maybe it would be a better connection if u have the copper or nickel pressed on the cell by the magnet. u could use a bigger and stronger magnet then.
And maybe use some thermal-paste? Like the stuff u use for ur cpu in the pc?
 
It would be better to use a 4x cell holder with pressure tabs if you need/want quick swapable design (this is what I'll be designing my packs around)

Problem is, the bigger the magnet, the stronger the magnetic field, and the more likely it could interfere with the electronics. Especially if the wires move at all inside the field. There would be spikes that would be produced in the wires.
And when metal is added between two magnets, it's enlarges the magnetic field if they are facing the same direction. It could get smaller if they are N to N or S to S. But, that would also weaken the connection to the cell as well. Either condition not really favorable.
 
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