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Playing with transformers.
#11
Finally got all the plates cleaned down to bare metal!

I spent a while looking for ways to get black oxide on the plate, and I think this video sums up the details pretty well:


I've already started degreasing with acetone. It's what I normally use on metal that I'm about to paint.
Not sure if etching is needed, as I've just run them all on a scotch-brite wheel, but it's easy enough, and I've got the distilled vinegar.
I've got the salt, but I'll have to go get some hydrogen peroxide. Unless I can find some around the house...
And it turns out I've already got a little electric burner, so I won't be doing this in the kitchen, LOL.

I think I will use deionized water for boiling. I've got pretty hard water, and deionized is cheap, even for me. Smile
Redpacket likes this post
-Mike G
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#12
It's going to be the most beautiful transformer ever made! :-)
rebelrider.mike likes this post
Running off solar, DIY & electronics fan :-)
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#13
Wow, interesting. Learned something new today Big Grin I didn't know 'rust bluing' was a thing.
rebelrider.mike likes this post
Proceed with caution. Knowledge is Power! Literally! Cool 
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#14
(10-05-2018, 01:19 PM)Redpacket Wrote: Yeah, as you found "auto transformers" are not isolated and the output can just be a tap off at some point in the primary winding.
Aluminium wire is not good & I'd dump it & buy some new copper stuff. it snaps easily & is a pain to solder.
To clean the laminations, maybe a quick sand + use a rust converter with phosphoric acid?
Get some of the proper transformer tape if you're going to use this for safety isolation.

Remember that isolation between the plates must be maintained! No electrical connection between them !!
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#15
Hi folks! It's been a long while, but I haven't given up yet. I've been re-rusting my plates, and though it's not as easy as YouTube suggested, it's still going well.

I got all the plates cleaned with acetone, etched in white vinegar, and the rusting process has been kick-started with hydrogen peroxide and salt.


It's not as uniform as I had hoped, maybe because I didn't get all the coating off like I thought I did. But they're still rusting quite nicely, and boiling them is definitely converting the orange rust into black rust.


I've found that now the rusting process has begun, I only need to let them set out for a few hours, and the bare spots start to rust on its own, and can be re-boiled. Here's a few that are part way through the blackening process:


At this point, it's taking longer because I don't have the time to sit and watch the "soup" boil more than once every couple days. But more than half the plates are just about done.
-Mike G
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#16
I must have missed it, but why are you going to all the trouble?
Are you making something else out of the trans.?
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#17
When I took the transformer apart, the plates were all rusty. What I should have done was to lightly sand the rust down and then maybe boil the plates and oil them so as to keep the insulative coating intact. But I didn't know any better, so I cleaned them all down to shiny bare metal, and then discovered I'd have to re-insulate them somehow. I chose black oxide, as I was concerned with lacquer or urethane being all sticky and making reassembly difficult.

So I ended up making a lot more work for myself than I could have. But there is light at the end of the tunnel! My first few plates are finished, and I think they turned out really good:


I gave them a very light sanding and a thin coat of WD40. I need to test one to see if it's less conductive than bare metal, but everyone says it will be, so I'm not too worried. Only 183 left to go!
Korishan and BlueSwordM like this post
-Mike G
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#18
After trying numerous different products, I found this at a NAMES model expo.
It is the best that I have used.

Trying to get a picture to come up.  Huh
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#19
You have to click the image after uploading
Proceed with caution. Knowledge is Power! Literally! Cool 
Knowledge is Power; Absolute Knowledge is Absolutely Shocking!
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#20
Ok, I thought [ y] I did!  One more time.
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