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Dennis' 14s200p x 2.
#41
How can you do more damage to the pack with a spot welder?
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#42
(09-04-2019, 12:50 PM)WuggyBuggy Wrote: How can you do more damage to the pack with a spot welder?

In the case where you have to repair/service a pack. Solder is easy to undo, spot welds may damage/tear a hole in a cell.

The work around would be to spot weld to the cell, and solder to the bus bar.
100kwh-hunter likes this post
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#43
(09-05-2019, 02:58 AM)Geek Wrote:
(09-04-2019, 12:50 PM)WuggyBuggy Wrote: How can you do more damage to the pack with a spot welder?

In the case where you have to repair/service a pack. Solder is easy to undo, spot welds may damage/tear a hole in a cell.

The work around would be to spot weld to the cell, and solder to the bus bar.

It's easy to undo a spot welded pack. Cut the nikkel strips around the battery that need to be changed, then replace the battery. Then overlap the nikkel strips 2 row in X and Y Smile Done. Red = Nikkel strip and lightblue is the cut. 

1 min job. Soooo.... Smile But if you like solder better, that's the way you should do it. Offcause. Melt shit is fun!

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#44
Cool Melting lead tin bismuth aluminium bronze zinc copper silver gold....only iron and steel are somewhat tricky to make good casts.
Lead alloys alu and copper are my favorites Big Grin
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#45
(09-06-2019, 02:31 PM)WuggyBuggy Wrote:
(09-05-2019, 02:58 AM)Geek Wrote:
(09-04-2019, 12:50 PM)WuggyBuggy Wrote: How can you do more damage to the pack with a spot welder?

In the case where you have to repair/service a pack. Solder is easy to undo, spot welds may damage/tear a hole in a cell.

The work around would be to spot weld to the cell, and solder to the bus bar.

It's easy to undo a spot welded pack. Cut the nikkel strips around the battery that need to be changed, then replace the battery. Then overlap the nikkel strips 2 row in X and Y Smile Done. Red = Nikkel strip and lightblue is the cut. 

1 min job. Soooo.... Smile But if you like solder better, that's the way you should do it. Offcause. Melt shit is fun!

(image removed)

The upshot of solder, it's easy to undo, in a case where you need to isolate a self discharging cell. The point I was trying to make in my other reply, but did not elaborate on. Once the initial joint has been done, soldering and desoldering is very easy, and can be done very quickly.

Also, melting shit is fun!
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#46
THE SYSTEM IS UP AND RUNNING!

I started in week 36 last year and now I have power on my first 14s200p pack. 

I mounted everything on some plywood. Was easy and cheap. 


Adjusted the settings in MPP Solar app and Batrium.

My fuse is 80A, so that is why I only charge at 80A. When pack 2 is ready. I will increase this.



Big thanks for everyone on DIY facebook Denmark and the DIY discord, aswell here on the forums.

Any questions, just shoot. Smile Maybe i know it, or know of a video about it.
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#47
@100kwh-hunter
"After soldering the busbars and fuses, i put them to a capacity test, to make sure that all packs are the same in capacity."

Could you describe more precisely how and what you use to measure the module (1s) capacity?
I am currently building 14 ~ 15s160p.
It should enter even 15s (61V) on PIP 5048GK.
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#48





A picture often tells more than a 1000 words.

First its a IR check and volt, below 2v is out odd ir is out(10% deviation max, per manufacture)

After that i tested my single cells with 1a charge on heaters.
After 4 weeks rest, i test volt again for sd and test the capacity, i only keep 90%soh and above

Then i put them into packs according to Daromers method, seems to work very good.
100mah buckets differents, when i have 14 in one bucket, they go to there last working area.

So when i have 14 packs i charge the pack in "station 1" to 4.2 volts with max 10.75ah.
After its full, it goes to "station 2" where the zb's are, they have a discharge rate of max 3 amp.
The resistor board is between 2.4 and 2.7a discharge for each zb unit.
Before i put the initial test on, i discharge with one zb to 4.0 exactly.

I dont know how, but if i put one zb to work it will discharge with just ~0.6ah?

When the zb reaches 4.0 volt it starts blinking, and he is done.
Then i put them all to work to let them discharge to 3.0 v (pre programmed setting), just by clicking ok.

When they are all done, i simply add all the numbers, that outcome i write down on a piece of paper and stick that in between the cells.
After 14 packs are done,i compare the numbers, then i simply take out or add some cells to match the average of all the 14 packs.
With the first 14 packs, my biggest difference was 3.5A(will retest them in November)
The second was bigger 6a, due to temperature, i think.(16c to 24c in a couple of days)
The third 14 are roughly the same, they are still busy.

"station 3" is charging the pack, back up to 3.3v for storage.

This whole process take 24 hours to complete.
After i came home from work i add up the numbers, swap the packs to there next station, discharge to 4.0v, before bedtime i put them to 3.0v discharge.
Next day the same, also with my single cell testing

Best, hope this was helpful


Single cell testing after the ir test with the yr/

Built a tray to accomplish Daromers method.

I used some old photos didn't want to go back to the shed, sorry
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#49
(09-22-2019, 12:10 PM)WuggyBuggy Wrote: I mounted everything on some plywood. Was easy and cheap. 


Adjusted the settings in MPP Solar app... 

Looks really awesome man! But what happened to the racks from the beginning of your topic? What MPP hybrid are you using? And yeah, a video would be very nice!
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#50
Hes using mpi 10kw 3phase.
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