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Dala's Leaf buildthread (2015 Nissan Leaf)
(12-20-2019, 03:46 AM)Irling Wrote: Hi Dala. My name is Pavel, I’ve been looking for solutions to the turtle problem for my 2014  Leaf t for a long time, but no one can help me(
I installed an additional battery of 14 kilowatts of hours, but the control unit still believes that I have a battery of 24 kilowatts of hours. I have a 285 guide, and as soon as they end, the turtle turns on for the 7 guide, although I have about 40% more energy. How can I solve this problem? You can help?
Hi Pavel, I suggest you make a separate thread on this forum, and add some pictures. It sounds like you need a CAN-bridge too, but we need more details on the build. Make a new thread! Smile
Korishan, hbpowerwall, thanar like this post
Happy new year!

I've been busy troubleshooting a Leaf with no heater working. It's a 2010 JDM model, one of the first LEAFs that ever rolled of the assembly line.

When you open the energy consumption screen (and good luck with everything being in Japanese), the kW meter for the heater shows 0 even though you have the heat on for full blast.

It throws 4x Fault codes

So lets start with the B2772 "PTC Heater Voltage". This points towards no voltage reaching the PTC element. The power distribution module has a 30A fuse inside it, which handles the 400V supply to the PTC element. It's in the bottom middle area inside the PDM

So to get to this fuse, you need to dismantle the whole car. Remove HV battery connections, and take the whole front apart. Even the brake lines need to move out of the way! After 6h it looked like this

After getting the PDM out, I opened it up and verified that the fuse had blown.

I can see now why Nissan charges over 3 grand to do this! All in all I would consider this fuse replacement on a legendary difficulty level. No wonder Nissan redesigned and simplified the system for the 2013+ Leaf! This car still needs a new PTC element, just to wait until it drops in the mail. Hope this was interesting to see something else for a change Smile
hbpowerwall likes this post
All parts have arrived, so I continued with fixing the heat on the customer Leaf.

I replaced the fuse in the PDM and glued it shut. Then installed it back into the car

I then installed the new to this car PTC heater, here you can see the differences. Looks like they switched from safety nuts to normal nuts, and the software version is newer on this one. Also the output is raised from 4kW to 5kW

But after getting a new fuse and PTC heater installed, the car wont start. The P31E0 error code is critical, since it's not even turning on the battery contactors. Seems there is a massive fault somewhere

Turned out to be a loose connection to one of the orange high voltage cables. The style which has the black plastic around it has a design fault, it's really easy to get the teeth to mis-align, which causes the cable to not seat properly. This type of cable is used between the Battery->PDM, PDM->Chademo and PDM->Inverter. It was the Chademo cable that was misaligned. Silly mistake that cost me 3h extra work!

Heater is working nicely now and capable of outputting 5kW of heat Smile
Oz18650, daklein, Korishan like this post
GEN1 Nissan Leaf Battery Upgrade HOW-TO [PART1]

So I thought I would share my deepest secret how to upgrade a 2011-2013 Leaf with the newer 2014+ style battery. I think this is very necessary information to share so that we can keep these cars going for longer. We need more people doing battery upgrades! So let's begin!

Here we have the batteries side by side. On the left is the ZE0 (2011-2013), and on the right we have a AZE0 -15 battery. The same connectors on AZE0 is used on 2014->2020 batteries, so this is the same connectors on all 24/30/40/62kWh batteries.

One thing you might have noticed on the previous picture is that the newer battery has an additional orange high voltage plug on it. This plug is used by the heating system on the newer cars, but the older ones share it with the main HV connection. So this plug will be unused when retrofitting a battery. So to keep it safe I will plug it.

Thankfully I got the plug and a few centimeters of wiring with the battery, so let's de-pin it and fill it with sealant. To de-pin this connector, push the tab highlighted in blue upwards. Then pull down the wiring.

Once that is done you can fill the whole plug with sealant. Once it has cured, re-apply the plug to the battery.

Next order of business is the wiring harness. The ZE0 has a 22-pin connector for CAN and power signals, the AZE0 has a 36-pin connector. So you need to get this part also from a scrapyard, try to 3d-print it, or order a new one. I have the wiring details on this github repository for anyone playing along at home.

Note that they renamed the RLY signals;
RLY1 (ZE0) == RLY P (AZE0)
RLY2 (ZE0) == RLY N (AZE0)

Here is a newer style plug being spliced into the old wiring harness.

Some tips here if you splice. You can crimp or solder. There are pros/cons to both methods. If you solder, follow the NASA-standard, pre-tin both ends, get shrink wrap with glue inside threaded on, solder wires together and shrink the wrap around it. Once it's all done, electrical tape never hurts. Push/pull the cabling into the car to avoid the splice being exposed to the elements. Again, this is controversial and many swear by their own method of splicing wires in an automotive system for maximum longevity. I will probably be criticized on this, but feel free to give constructive criticism Smile

End of Part 1, Part 2 incoming soon.
jdeadman likes this post

Drill out the two rear supports that hold the battery to the chassis, so that the bolt hole will align with the new pack. Here is a closeup on where material needs to be removed.

After this the battery fits physically. If you connect the battery and try to start the car without modifying any CAN messages, you're going to have a bad time. The car doesn't even start.

Next up installing a CAN-bridge!
Finale, part 3.

Forgot to mention, to get the battery splash shields to match, you have to re-drill some bolt holes, very quick operation. All the push-pin styled ones fit, but a few bolts that go around the edges don't line up. Easy fix.

So the final piece of the puzzle is to get the CAN communication to cooperate. Like you saw in the previous post, the car won't go into ready mode due to multiple CAN issues. The newer style battery sends a few messages too fast, some have different contents and a few ones even have to be blocked out. Depending on which method you use to solve this, the final steps will be different. I am using Muxsan CAN bridges, with custom software, so this step is only applicable to me.

I first localize a good spot to place the bridge. On the ZE0, the wiring is completely different to access the EV-CAN, so I just go in right where the B24 connector enters into the chassis. Under the cup holder is a good place to put it.

I also run fused constant +12V power to it, and ground it to a bolt.

After this, I downloaded the CAN conversion software to the CAN-bridge, and was greeted with this lovely sight. Ready to operate.

That concludes the newer battery into older chassis guide. It's not an easy job! Hope you learned something Smile
not2bme likes this post
Nice job! It's great to hear about hacking EV cars, whenthese days everything is all locked!
Dala likes this post
So there is not much to write home about when it comes to my own Leaf. It just works. The 40kWh battery is awesome in winter, and guarantees me 200+km of range.

But what's really awesome is the starting of pre-heating via the OVMS app. It works everywhere! I haven't touched the windshield scraper at all this winter! This also prolongs windscreen lifetime, since you aren't scraping it with a sharp plastic object every morning, and risking gravel particles scratching it. Picture related, compare my car that preheated for 15min compared to the one in front!

Combine this with the heated steering wheel (that ALSO preheats!) and the heated seats, this is the ultimate vehicle for cold weather. I just cannot imagine going back to a conventional ICE vehicle.
jdeadman, hbpowerwall, ARiis like this post
Hi Dala,

Thanks for a really great tread, awesome job!

I have been replacing the cells in my 2011 ZE0 Leaf. It had 64% SOH left, this after 155k km.
Nissan here in DK refused any warranty and would charge me over 10k € for a replacement battery.
After a lot of searches I found a 2013 battery with 38k KM's from cold Norway. None of the Scrappers was able to give me any info on the actual battery health, only age and km's from the cars.
I have now changed the cells.
To avoid running into the Turtle mode problem I did reuse the BMS from the old battery.
After installing all the newer cells my Leaf did start with no errors. BUT the BMS does still report 64% SOH and 8 bars therefore also less range than it should.
The Nissan service was consulted, but was unable to reset nor the BMS or LBC.
Next step would be either build in CAN bus modifier, to swap BMS or to live with the misinformation my Leafs GOM is giving.
Do you think modifying the data on the CAN bus would be enough to get more realistic readings on SOH, Bars and range prediction ?
Hi Ariis,

Well done completing the long and potentially dangerous cellswap procedure!

The SOH will climb back to 90%ish or whatever the cells actually are. It will take maybe 20-30 charge cycles, and it will NOT update the SOH during cold weather. The BMS holds off on any corrections during winter. But the capacity bars will not grow back. They will be locked to 8 bars.

You have two options (or maybe one)
1. If the newer battery also was a ZE0 battery, you can replace the BMS with the newer one and perform a re-pairing with a tool. I actually have my own tool in development, that you could try with. If the newer battery was from an AZE0 Leaf, this is not possible, since the CAN messages have changed so much between ZE0 and AZE0, see further up in this thread.
2. Install a CAN-bridge. With the CAN-bridge, you can do whatever you want with the data on the bus. This would solve the capacity bars, since you can make your own function that calculates bars depending on SOH. You would still have to wait until the SOH goes up a bit, or hardcode it to a higher value temporarily. This will solve the GOM.


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