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Dala's Leaf buildthread (2015 Nissan Leaf)
The Man-in-the-middle attack CAN prototype boards from Muxsan arrived today. This thread is going to get quite technical soon...
Glubux likes this post
(05-16-2019, 10:36 AM)Dala Wrote: The Man-in-the-middle attack CAN prototype boards from Muxsan arrived today. This thread is going to get quite technical soon...

Nice (Hack the Planet!!!)
******Hi My name is Jason and I have SOCD (Solar Obsessive Compulsive Disorder)*******
Current Powerwall - 1400 Cells 7s200p (modular 40p packs) ~ 12kWh of storage     4x 315W Canadian Solar Panels

Working on the next 7s40p packs     ~2.5kWh

Waiting on 2000 Cells of unused Sony vt4 (2000mah 30A) ~ 15kWh      hehehehehe  More Power
And now for something completely different.

My friend Johan was bitten by the 3d-printing bug, and I am so intrigued! I searched thingiverse for a J1772 holder, and found this simple design:

So I sent him a message, and little over an hour later, a prototype was printed.



I was told this was a really fast prototype (Layer-height was 0.3mm), and if I wanted a better looking one it would take roughly 4.5h to print one. I am so excited by such a small piece of plastic Big Grin Thanks Johan Smile
Korishan and lnxpro like this post
So let's talk wheels. Winter is long over and it's time for summer tires. This is the first car I've owned with a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). I got a new to me set of alloys, and naturally wanted to keep the TPMS functioning. First order of business was to order another set of pressure sensors, but the local Nissan dealership had these for 100€/sensor! So ebay was naturally the next place to look, and for 17€/sensor I won't complain.

Here are the wheels fitted, stock Bridgestone Ecopias, 16", 17.1kg rims. The exact same weight as the OEM steelwheels, so not very high quality rims these. But they look better than the steelies Smile

So, let's tackle the TPMS warnings. The Leaf warns you about the TPMS on both the lower and upper instrument cluster. It also flashes them for a solid few minutes, so you'll definitely notice it and want to fix it asap!

The solution is LeafSpy Pro. The instructions are so simple that anyone can remap the sensors. It took me 10 minutes!

After getting the car to accept the new sensors I let it cool down for 30mins. Then I filled the tires up to the eco-miling spec of 3.1bar front, 3.0 bar rear. Instrument cluster is happy again!

My 3d-priting obsession continues, I wanted to personalize the wheels, so 3d printing center caps seemed like a perfect tiny project.

Started by modelling this "Toyota Prius Wheel Center Cap - Power Symbol" to fit my wheels, made new hooks. It's so easy to model, using sketchup since it's free.

Printed a prototype, worked almost too good, now to print more in higher quality and paint them Smile

I promise I'll get back to the CAN stuff soon, just wait Wink
lnxpro, Glubux, Korishan And 1 others like this post
I took delivery of the first batterypack from Norway! It was dusty, came from a crashed 30kWh Leaf

After getting it home and cleaning it up, the label identifies it as a 30kWh pack made in the UK

After splitting the case open. You can already spot the big doublestacked modules! The complete battery weighs rougly 20-30kg more than a 24kWh battery
lnxpro, RikH, Korishan And 1 others like this post
For my own reference, I ran a capacity test on a cell, same test as before

Antimatter Test, 5Amp discharge, from 4.1V -> 3.3V
USA cell: 39,77Ah
Italy cell: 43,30Ah
30kWh cell: 59,0Ah

So if I have a USA cell in my pack now, I would get a 48% range increase by installing the 30kWh pack in my car.

I wonder how do you guys test Leaf cells? Charge them all the way to 4.2V and discharge to 3.0V?
I generally use a few Rigol electronic loads for capacity testing leaf cells, or a single one for complete batteries as their input range is around 150v.

4.2v down to 3v is fine, but there's relatively little capacity below 3.5v - and these tests are mostly comparative against others rather than the original specification.
Dala likes this post
After completing the pilot project upgrade on my personal car, here are some random thoughts and info for the bruteforce 24-30kWh upgrade.

Here are the two battery management systems. Nissan refers to these boxes as LBCs, (Lithium Battery Controller) The top is from the 24, bottom 30.

Serial 24: 293A09RB3A
Serial 30: 293A04NR5B

They are mechanically very similar, but you cannot use the 24 LBC with a 30 Busbar. There are people on the forums who tried this, and supposedly it will short the module, since a pin or two are not the same. It would be good to document this later on, since it takes quite some time to do a busbar swap, but I am playing it safe this time.

Oh, and the 30 box speaks kind of the same language, but pairing it with an 24 vehicle control module will result in a whole can of worms in the form of DTCs and turtle mode, since the bootup handshake afaik is different. This is being worked on by multiple people, so this will change soon.

Speaking about busbars, here is the rear stack of modules.

These are 30kWh modules, identified as "16B70 04###". You can also see the busbars, along with the tiny sensoring and balancing leads. These will only shunt 9mA, so it is OK for them to be such a tiny diameter. I am pairing the 30 cells with the 24 busbars.

Funfact, the 24 pack has 2/3 temperature measurements on the outside edge of the cells, but the 30 pack has temperature measurements directly on the busbars. Measuring it directly on the busbars will for sure result in higher and more responsive temperature measurements, so I guess that is why the 24 pack also "measures" colder than 30/40 packs.

Another thing I dediced to play safe was the contactors

The contactors had slightly different serial numbers, but they probably would have been interchangable. Didn't feel like this was the correct time to gamble Big Grin

Getting the 30kWh cells to fit presented a few minor problems. First, the rear stack's support beams wouldn't fit onto the cells. The cutouts at the end had to be made oval instead of round to fit the stack. Nothing a saw can't fix.

Then, the mounting holes for the rear stack did not align properly with the bottom shell

So I had to lift out the rear stack again (heavy!) and carefully file the holes to the proper shape. After that the bolts could be installed.

After everything was swapped over, I installed the hybrid 24/30 pack into the car, and it happily booted up with the lovely startup sound. After having the 12V battery disconnected the car always goes into miles/Fahrenheit mode, minor annoyance Tongue

I will now do a shakedown of the car before diving into correcting the instrument-cluser with the CAN-bridge.
lnxpro likes this post
very interesting,
you replace all original 24kwh modules with 30kwh new modules, with entire electronics of original 24kwh keep inside original battery

please tell us, if you can, how many kw takes the car on full charge (because 24kwh LBC it know that has only 24kwh modules)
and if you can drive please note how many km can you make extra.

this is a big thing that you make
thanks for sharing info with us.
(07-05-2019, 09:44 AM)ilie Wrote: please tell us, if you can, how many kw takes the car on full charge (because 24kwh LBC it know that has only 24kwh modules)

I now have some data! Did a lot of driving over the past days to get a feel for the new pack. I managed a comfortable 205km at 15-13*C with no AC or heat. I averaged 7.3km/kWh, due to me slowing down after going past 0.0% SOC.

The first 100km I drove 85-100km/h. The second 100km I drove between 70-85km/h. Here is what the 24 LBC instrumentation said:

16% dash, 114km travelled. Low battery warning!
8% dash, 135km travelled. - - - km remaining
- - -% dash, 142km travelled, - - - 3.66V min cell voltage (Leafspy 12.3% SOC)
150km travelled, 3.64V min voltage (3.61V under load), (Leafspy 7.6% SOC)
165km travelled, 3.58V min voltage (3.53V under load), (Leafspy 0.0% SOC)
205km travelled, 3.37V min voltage (3.30V under load) (Leafspy gave up a long time ago...)

I could probably have kept driving until turtle, and waited for the contactors to open, but I really didn't want to strand myself. Taking it slow, it would probably been possible to drive 220-230km on a single charge. I love the 30kWh battery, but the instrumentation needs fixing asap, Half of the range is left after it indicates the first low battery voltage lol!
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