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Dala's Leaf buildthread (2015 Nissan Leaf)
Hi Dala,

Thanks for your reply and suggestions, I do really appreciate !

I am pretty sure the newer battery was from a AZE0 as the cells was not the 'sardine can' type, busbars and wires was all different.

The CAN bridge, can I purchase this from ?

If I had known that it was possible to swap the complete battery box as you did, I would have done that.

You are right, it was a risky business to swap the cells, I'm well aware of the danger involved.
A few years back a guy working at some pipes over a large bank of power-backup batteries.
He dropped a spanner, shortcutting the busbars connecting the batteries.
The spanner completely 'blow up', literally vaporising. Luckily no-one was injured during this accident!

Next project is to modify my charger to be controlled remotely ie. through MQTT.
This way I would be able to charge my car when my SolarPanels are producing power or when the tarif on power is low during nighttime.
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(02-05-2020, 12:50 PM)ARiis Wrote: Hi Dala,

Thanks for your reply and suggestions, I do really appreciate !

I am pretty sure the newer battery was from a AZE0 as the cells was not the 'sardine can' type, busbars and wires was all different.

The CAN bridge, can I purchase this from ?

If I had known that it was possible to swap the complete battery box as you did, I would have done that.

You are right, it was a risky business to swap the cells, I'm well aware of the danger involved.
A few years back a guy working at some pipes over a large bank of power-backup batteries.
He dropped a spanner, shortcutting the busbars connecting the batteries.
The spanner completely 'blow up', literally vaporising. Luckily no-one was injured during this accident!

Next project is to modify my charger to be controlled remotely ie. through MQTT.
This way I would be able to charge my car when my SolarPanels are producing power or when the tarif on power is low during nighttime.

Good, so you didn't use the newer busbars! Good thing you didn't because the wiring changed, so the only way to do the bruteforce is to only use the newer cells.

You can fill out the contact form on my website, www.dalasevrepair.fi But the price of a can-bridge, the time needed to install it, I would recommend you to simply wait until spring, and let the BMS learn the capacity. The SOH and range estimation will go up! It's just the capacity bars that wont come back. So the bridge will only fix those, not worth it imo.
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I delivered two cars this week!  Big Grin

First one up was a JDM 2010 that needed a new battery and a new heater system (Fuse and PTC). This was the one I posted about a few posts up.

Second one was a USDM 2011 that came from a Texas flood. The car was did not go in ready mode and threw 100 error codes. After some tinkering with some connectors, and a fresh battery, the car sprung to life. Picture related.


Feels good resurrecting something that was completely dead Smile

So now for something completely different. Both customers were generous, and left me with the original EVSE that came with the car. This is due to them not being useful in Finland, due to 230V mains.

So lets look a bit closer at the OEM Nissan "granny"-chargers.

First up is the OG Japanese 2010 unit. This one is specified to run at 200VAC, and charge with 15A. This totals up to a total watt draw of (P=UI, P=200*15) 3000W. Note also the exotic plug.


Next is the USDM 2011 unit. This one is specced to run at 120VAC and charge with 12A. This totals up to (120*12)= 1440W. This one is really slow! Note also the exotic plug.


So lets take the USDM unit apart and inspect it. To take these apart you need to drill out the backside to expose the screws. Good way to spot any voided warranties.


And here is the inside. It is extremely well put together. Note the glued PCB, GFCI circuit and general sturdy construction. This thing is built to last. The transformer could in theory be swapped from an 120VAC IN, 20.9 VAC OUT to a more EU friendly 230VAC IN, but I think that is more suited to the JDM unit that already is made for 200V and 15A. So from this unit I will be salvaging the Type1 cable.


And what to do with the Type1 cable you might ask? I ofcourse put it into good use for the OpenEVSE unit that I ordered last year. I mounted it at my parents garage, foreshadowing something Wink
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Hahah, I like how you say they are exotic plugs Tongue That's what we use over here in the US.



This one I think has one of the blades turned 90* to the other blade, correct? If so, this is standard for plugs here to designate they are 240V. However, it is strange that it specifically says 200VAC, not 220VAC or 240VAC. Most of our devices run between 210 - 240VAC that uses a full phase (we have split single-phase standard house installations. 3-phase is not common here)



And this one is standard 120VAC plug Wink

Perhaps the owners either bought the vehicles in or from the US or the wrong chargers were included for your area(?)
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I'm pretty sure the charger came from Japan, more than that I don't know Smile

So I went on a mission last Sunday. A customer wanted help with a ZE0 24->30kWh swap, so I compiled software and hit the road. Here are some of my thoughts on using a Leaf for longer journeys.

I started the day by collecting all tools that I would need. The customer already did all the heavy lifting and only needed the CAN-bridge and a new main fuse. And yes, you always need duct tape and zipties Wink


I checked the route with 'A Better Routeplanner', this will be extremely easy with the 40kWh Leaf. This is a really good tool for planning longer trips, and gives you a good estimate on how long you'll need to charge. In the end, I spent less time charging, since I could also charge while working on the customer car. The trip was about 500km in total.


So the route from Vaasa->Rauma is E8, though a bit desolate, which has some really nice Fortum fastchargers. These run entirely off renewables!


So the job went extremely well, had the customer car up and running in about an hour and a half. I then drove back to Vaasa. After the last fastcharge, the temperature of the battery pack was approaching the thermal limit. The 40kWh pack suffers from something called rapidgate (which is overheating after many quickcharges in a row). Thankfully it's now winter, so the battery did not hit the thermal limit, but if this would have been +25*C ambient conditions, it would have throttled the charging for sure.


Mux' blog has a great post with technical explanations on this topic if someone is interested in learning more how to manage a battery. https://ssj3gohan.tweakblogs.net/

So to summarize, awesome trip, extremely cheap way to travel, satisfied customer and hot battery Smile
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The MUXSAN CAN-Bridges are now available to the public to buy. I just received a pack of 10 that I will put into use over the next few months.

The final version has 3-ports, the pre-production version that I've been using had 2-ports. So the new version will allow for even crazier modifications Smile

v1.0 [2-port]


v2.5 [3-port]


Here's a link to where you can buy them, in case you have a car that needs modifying Smile
https://www.tindie.com/products/muxsan/c...rt-rev-25/
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So this weekend I finished up a quick customer job, and then had some spare time to mount the Brink towbar that I bought a few months ago. Here is a brief overview of the installation.

Started with removing the rear diffuser. Lots of 10mm bolts and plastic clips.


Next on the list was the rear bumper. I also removed the rear taillights. Check out the amount of mud that had been collecting there! Had to pressure wash it before re-installation.


The towbar uses the stock location for the RH hook used to strap down/pull the car. This is a very sturdy place to bolt it in. Here is the old one removed.


Next up the bar can be fitted up, and holes drilled on the LH side chassi rail. The kit mounts it with beefy inserts and 10.9grade bolts. It was a bit tricky to drill the 18mm holes needed, but I finally got it done after about an hour of drilling!


The diffuser needed a tiny section cut out to make way for the protruding towbar. The instructions were really good here, a pair of metal scissors did the job.


And here is the final result


The ball is quick removable with a key. The whole construction is really, really sturdy. Keep in mind that this towbar is officially only rated for 52kg when fitted on the Leaf (bikes only), but the exact same towbar when fitted on other Nissan models are rated for 750kg, hmm. Do what you want with this information Smile I still need to hook up the electrical outlet, but that was enough tinkering for this weekend.
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Bit of an update to what I've been up to the last week. I helped remotely to upgrade a customer car in Estonia. The upgrade was physically performed by a local garage that I sent detailed instructions to and a CAN-bridge that was pre-programmed for the specific car.



Feels very cool to do these remote support missions Smile And due to the coronavirus it's definitely best to avoid human contact!
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Hope everyone is staying at home during these times!

To stay creative this week, I pushed firmware updates to all battery upgrade customers. I've done some general bugfixes, but more importantly increased the maximum voltage the car charges to.


The 2011-2013 Nissan Leaf originally charges to max 394V with a cell maximum of 4.1V. I've overridden this, and the on-board charger will now happily go to 404V with a cell max of 4.2V. This will unlock a bit more capacity out of the battery, with the downside being that if you leave it fully charged for a long period of time the pack will degrade faster. But this can be managed with smart charging, timers etc. Anyways, me and the customers are seeing quite substantial range improvements, so I'm quite happy Smile
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I got an excellent question regarding how is this safe and does it affect degradation? So here is my copied answer

"So if you are worried about overcharging, let me do some more technical explanation on this.

Here are some snippets from the datasheet that Nissan did not provide. First, here is the state of charge for open circuit voltages.


As you see, true 100% state of charge for LiMNO2 cells are at 4222mV. Note that we taper off the charge AND do emergency stop if one cell hit 4200mV whilst charging (incase a heavy imbalance would occur). When you stop charging, the cells don't stay at high voltage, they usually sag down by a few ten mV's.

The LBC will throw overvoltage DTCs if you would reach the 4260-4400mV range, and there is no chance for this since we also limit regenerative braking when we get into high SOC.

But what about situations other than 25*C you might ask? Here is the max charge current and temperature come into play.


Note that for slowcharging (0.01->0.20 [if you charge with 6.6kW]) the max voltage is almost always also 4.2V or above. This table is being backported into the conversion software.

The 2011-2013 ZE0 LBC is filled with bugs in the lookup tables, the charging behavior doesnt follow characteristics at all. We are actually going to manage the battery better than Nissan did! And remember that we also provide the BatterySaver functionality to limit the charge-%. So you will have more usable battery and the ability to preserve your battery for longer.""
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