Okey, lets get started on one of my beloved projects, I like this very much.
First of all i don't mean anything negative, keep in mind that i am still learning English, and i don't want to insult anybody!
Those kind of project will consume more time than your average 18650 pw.
I could not figure out exactly where you are going to place your copper coils in your fire box?
If it is directly into the fire, the copper will disintegrate over time and cool off the fire, we are looking on a steam engine based system.
Why reinvent the wheel
So the ideal position would be direct in the heating collum, not in or directly above the flame's.
You don't want to cool of a fire, but get as much heat as possible.
I also could not figure out exactly(or was reading to quick?) what material your tote was made of.
In one of your post, i understand, you want to place the tote in a insulated box, and blow the air around it instead of thru it.(we will get back on this later, how why what pro's and con's)
That would mean a lot more of heat loss.
Before i forget: styrofoam has a other downpoint insulation wise, it can attract moisture, the insolation value will go down more.
There are a lot of styrofoam products, whichone do you have? maybe you have the lucky shot?
I think its more sufficient to gain more heat profit, to take one of your evap coils and submerse that into the tote.
Instead of blowing air thru a pipe thru your tote's medium.
So i think this is the ideal situation:
Your tote is completely insulated with a minimum of heat loss, the insulation is notdirectly pressed against the walls.
Leave a gap of ~0.5 inch? (12mm) to 1 inch between the rockwool and your totes wall.
Insulate the floor as well.
Your tote will have a minimum of 3 copper coils in it, or evap's.
First: the coil/evap to give the heat to your tote from your fire.
Second: the coil/evap to give heat to your tote from your evac tubes or other heat collectors.
Third: the coil/evap to retrieve heat and transfer that heat to your radiator.
For a system like this to work, you probably need a system working temperature of minimum 170F, preferably: 185F.
Temperatures in systems like this can easy go over 230F, that's why i suggested oil.
In my experience and experimenting endeavors, low temp systems does not work properly, speaking frankly: below a system temp of 120F is in
my opinion a waste of time.
You really need to think of heat as mass.
This winter i have a experiment that i would like to do, maybe also nice for you?
Peltier elements: hot water on one side is electricity or cold air on the other side.
In the summer turn it around, but its a experiment.
The so called low temp radiator from aluminium needs a minimum of 100F to give of some proper heat.
Now calculate your transport losses, storage losses and what the radiator must "radiate?".
My honest thoughts about your pipes, i am in doubt if you meant the pvc pipes that a electrician use, or that kind of pvc i use for my pond?
Those pipes will begin todeform at even 115F, or you meant the teflon/pe-rt type?
Tyleen is a pvc kind of plastic that can hold some higher temps, max ~180F.
I made some heat collectors with it, worked perfect, except with full sun.
When we look at water, it will segregate itself at 185F, if we go near those kind of temperatures, or make sure you can cool the system down, or put some pressure into your system.
You really want to keepthe h and o together, even before it hits the boiling point.
A pump does not give any pressure, it just mass distribution.
The simplest way to give 14psi in your systemis a inner tire tube in your tote, with the vent on the outside.
Make sure your system is closed! then pump up the tire.
I like this, i am looking forward for your (and others as well)reply.
Best