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Copper pipe as bus-bar and ring-terminal connectors
For DIY builds aluminium only makes sense for a busboar. yawn.
If you can't quantify how much they cost, it's a deal, I'll buy 5 of them for 3 lumps of rocking horse ......
Brass busbars are available from electrical suppliers & not expensive - they're a good choice with heaps of options.
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In general what is better?
Is it better to coat the ring terminal with tin and put your wires in and squeeze it tight, or fill it all the way when you squeezed the wires in?

I agree on aluminium for busbars, its cheaper than copper tube.
You must drill anyway for your bold.

Still learning English. Learning Li ion and solar technology.

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1500 waiting for testing.

Saving for 3 times phoenix inverter 48/3000 230v to gain also 380v
3 chargers?

Time is our enemy, must work to, the sun is our friend, must relax to.
With best regards
Purchased lug vs a couple of my early home made ones from copper pipe.    Must have had a couple of beers for that one with drill hole off a bit Smile

The purchased one is so much prettier for only 80c each.
Geek and Korishan like this post
And if you want to go chinesium route, you could get them even cheaper. You can't exactly fake copper, unless the tin plated ones are actually aluminum instead. Easy fix, don't get the tin coated ones.
But even if they are tinned coated aluminum, the size of the lugs are usually large enough to handle any electrical discrepancies.
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Hmmm. I may not be an 'Electrical Engineer', but I'm assuming that using wire is more effective due to the strands because the electrons have multiple paths on each strand to move. This is just a theory/thought.
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Hand wound terminals are sometimes better than lugs depending on the bolts and they are cheap (few extra mm of wire stripped off the end)

These are some bad examples of mine...

Some crimp terminals are way undersized (wall thickness) for the conductor sizes so this is where a DIY wire loop can also distribute the current better and a larger mass (surface area) for heat dissipation.

Redpacket, I like those earthbars.. the 300A 36 hole option.. When I used to use terminals like that I would put the wire so that both screws are applied to a single cable and then tighten the closest screw up to a lower pressure than the furthest. The reason is the furthest is full on, so absolute pressure and lowest surface contact resistance, but not necessarily the lowest resistance terminal due to chage of shape through wire compression. The second terminal is to apply some (90%) pressure buit not to distort the cable conductor as much. Tight terminal is 10% short of the screw shearing off.

The top cable example above is an extra outer binding layer, which makes the cable less likely to be split or cut by screw pressure when tightening and fills the void better as well....

Back in the 1990's you never saw aluminium SWA. The only place aluminium was used was on the likes of 132/400kV overhead lines with a steel wire core and outer alloy wrapper. 33kV and lower lines were all solid drawn single strand copper. Aluminium as a conductor for larger cables can now be cheaper and a lighter cable to move around.... try routing a 200m long 3 phase 300m2 copper SWA cable with a few people and no machinery (other than a manual cable winch) and you get the idea.

The main downside and limitation with aluminium for small cables is embrittlement with bending.

In relation to stranded wire - it has to be insulated for the concept to work if it is for current handling reasons :
The article says RF, high frequency, however it applies to high current conductors as well. This is part of the reason when you have 200+ amp cables you start to need more and more mm2 per amp for a cable.
If you can't quantify how much they cost, it's a deal, I'll buy 5 of them for 3 lumps of rocking horse ......

Well..I am not so pleased with the end result.
Aldo i can make them pretty fast.

Boil the oxidation layer of with vinegar salt and water.

completelycharged, i like that idea very much, its very simple and effective.
But the purchased one of OffGridInTheCity is also very appealing.

Korishan, that chinesium route, you mean this one? cous i planning to buy one of those:


And probably i will share it with some pw builders here in "noord-holland" the Netherlands

Thanks in advance
Still learning English. Learning Li ion and solar technology.

4200 cells in packs Exclamation above 2500mah and 90%soh.
1500 waiting for testing.

Saving for 3 times phoenix inverter 48/3000 230v to gain also 380v
3 chargers?

Time is our enemy, must work to, the sun is our friend, must relax to.
With best regards
(07-05-2019, 08:32 AM):Redpacket Wrote: The user "Owitte" is using tubing - he's flattened just the ends, then drills & bolts together:

thanks for linking to my project thread Big Grin . I decided to go with copper pipes because of mainly four reasons:
  • the price: Even if you can't get used pipes from somewhere, it's available for a reasonable price at any hardware store
  • electrical properties: Copper is a good conductor with minimal resistance
  • physical properties: It's easy to work with, you can bend and solder it easily
  • and last: it's quite solid and strong enough to hold the weight of the battery packs on my wall, so I don't need extra holders
I also made all of my terminals from copper tube by cutting it in small pieces (40mm), than flattening half of it, drill a hole in the flattened part and solder the cables into the hole on the other side. I also tinned the flattened part to prevent corrosion.

But you also have to be careful concerning the electrical contact over a long time. I noticed that most of my packs become loose after a while, maybe because the copper is also a little weak. My solution was using steel spring washers, since then I didn't have any problems anymore.

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