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Watchmon 4 onboard output
#1
Can anyone help me with the onboard mosfet output on the watch mon 4?
I connected a fan to output A on the watchmon based on the info provided  on the batrium site however when I set the output to manually on nothing happens same thing with output B. The software shows the on indicator but nothing at the terminals.


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#2
It's hard to see how you've got yours wired, but the A and B outputs are switched zero volts (0v/gnd/negative)

The schematic on the Batrium site is correct and does work, assuming both of your outputs do actually function.

Have you seen Brunos video on fan control ? (Its a Batrium video) although it relates primarily related to the expansion the principal is the same.

https://youtu.be/SAFrvQbJ_lU
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#3
(07-15-2019, 08:50 PM)Sean Wrote: It's hard to see how you've got yours wired, but the A and B outputs are switched zero volts (0v/gnd/negative)

The schematic on the Batrium site is correct and does work, assuming both of your outputs do actually function.

Have you seen Brunos video on fan control ? (Its a Batrium video) although it relates primarily related to the expansion the principal is the same.

https://youtu.be/SAFrvQbJ_lU

It is connected exactly as shown on the website but still nothing I even did a software update still nothing
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#4
Then it's time to enter the black hole of Batriums support system.

Perhaps one last thing to try, assuming you have some mons - connect a few up, and use the cooling enabled logic to switch A or B - you can set a temperature a few degrees above ambient and use body heat to take a mon over that temp, or a heat gun/hair dryer - you should see the cooling icon appear at the bottom of the toolkit software, and you can see the state on the logic page - the only reason to try this alternative method of triggering is to eliminate the remote possibility of "manual on" being the cause, rather than the physical FETs.
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#5
I am currently working on the same problem ...and have been in the black hole of Batrium support ...with a lot of communication there but no solution yet.  I too have it wired up as described on the Batrium website.  I am going to try something different today and see if it works and will post if it does.  Are you using a dc-dc transformer for 12 volt fans?  The shunt trip breaker that I have wired up as per the Batrium diagram works fine so I know my outputs are working properly.
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#6
Just for convenience ...



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#7
(07-16-2019, 08:32 AM)Sean Wrote: Then it's time to enter the black hole of Batriums support system.

Perhaps one last thing to try, assuming you have some mons - connect a few up, and use the cooling enabled logic to switch A or B - you can set a temperature a few degrees above ambient and use body heat to take a mon over that temp, or a heat gun/hair dryer - you should see the cooling icon appear at the bottom of the toolkit software, and you can see the state on the logic page - the only reason to try this alternative method of triggering is to eliminate the remote possibility of "manual on" being the cause, rather than the physical FETs.

I will try that. I tried it with the high cell voltage trigger and  the software showed it being active but nothing at the output. I contacted batrium support but its like a damn merry-go- round

(07-16-2019, 01:38 PM)Headrc Wrote: I am currently working on the same problem ...and have been in the black hole of Batrium support ...with a lot of communication there but no solution yet.  I too have it wired up as described on the Batrium website.  I am going to try something different today and see if it works and will post if it does.  Are you using a dc-dc transformer for 12 volt fans?  The shunt trip breaker that I have wired up as per the Batrium diagram works fine so I know my outputs are working properly.

I set it up as a 4s to test it so no converter was required. maybe its a strategy to force you to buy the expansion board
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#8
To further pursue this topic ....let me see if anyone agrees with my reading of that second diagram that Sean highlighted from the Batrium website for wiring up the fan assembly with a DC-DC converter without an expansion board.

1. Negative on the Watchmon input connects to negative on the battery.
2.  Positive on the Watchmon has a 2 amp fuse in line and is connected to the positive side of the battery.
3.  Positive on the input side of the dc-dc converter goes through a 4 amp fuse and connects to the positive side of the battery. (Mine is a 48 volt to 12 volt Dc-DC converter).
4.  Negative on the input side of the dc-dc converter connects to one of the switched outputs on the Watchmon 4 (Output B in the diagram).
5.  The positive and negative outputs of the DC-DC converter 12 volt side connects to the fan assembly.
Thereby once a logic parameter such as thermal/cooling reaches its threshold the switch output turns on the 48 DC-DC converter by supplying its negative side.  

Batrium has not answered these specific questions so I am reaching out here.  I believe I have it right but would like someone else to confirm it.  It is not working when wired up this way but Batrium again does not offer any response (yet) on confirming this method of wiring.

Thanks 

Richard
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#9
That's correct, other than clarification of the word "input" refers to the WM4 supply rails rather than the WM4s two terminals for connection inputs.

The schematic is very simple, Batrium should credit its customers with having the ability to follow simple schematics.

Additionally, I can confirm, that the above schematic is also correct - all of the WM4s that I've purchased have had functioning A & B outputs that operate as expected, so I suppose you should be providing clear evidence to Batriums "support" that yours are correctly wired, but non functional - there should then be no issues with having the unit replaced.
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#10
Thanks Sean.  Yes that is how my wiring is.  I can read simple schematics and Batrium keeps pushing back with maybe your wiring is incorrect or you did not fuse properly etc.  Have you actually wired up a fan assembly with this wiring diagram and had it work?  It certainly makes sense but again mine is not working.  I have checked my wiring left and right and that is exactly how it has been wired form the get go with fuses in place as described.  Thanks, Richard
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