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60kW Whole House Powerwall build
#21
I'm a bit behind on updates to this thread but so far I've gotten my solar AC coupled and everything is working fine. Today being the first day after Dorian the sky was just about cloudless and I was able to test the max output of the solar going into the pack.



The inverter and pack were able to take about 12kW of AC (less on the pic due to AC->DC losses). However, at one point the AC solar jumped to 13kW and the inverter took it fine, but it did light up the overload LED, no alarm went off though (I think the manual states that once the audible alarm is heard then the inverter is not happy).

Either way I solved that issue by just turning down the AC, I figured may as well use the power to cool the house rather than waste it by turning off a branch of micros. I plan on setting up an API connection to the ecobee and as a secondary in case internet is out the water heater using a contactor and MQTT. Talk about first world problems because I'm generating too much power.

I've also gotten a bit further on my custom control dashboard where I can control charging, take the house off the grid, etc. I have run into an issue that the Rpi I was using for this doesn't have enough resources so it looks like I'll be moving it to a VM.

Crimp Daddy, AaronM, Solardad And 2 others like this post
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#22
Beautiful work man! Very very nice!
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#23
I've been debating adding some cooling to the pack since it's getting above where I want it. Still within range but I'd rather cool it but I can't seem to find any info on how many gpm I need in order to move fluid through all the modules. I guess I should go look in some EV conversion forums.
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#24
Very, very nice. Thank you for the excellent write-up. It is inspiring and will be put to use soon. My plans are similar; the use of Volt batteries instead of Tesla is the major difference. I received my Sigineer 12kW inverter straight from China last week and found your write-up this week.
In particular your use of the transfer switch and hacking the charging dial switch on the inverter is exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks!
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#25
(10-15-2019, 10:58 PM)swoozle Wrote: Very, very nice. Thank you for the excellent write-up. It is inspiring and will be put to use soon. My plans are similar; the use of Volt batteries instead of Tesla is the major difference. I received my Sigineer 12kW inverter straight from China last week and found your write-up this week.
In particular your use of the transfer switch and hacking the charging dial switch on the inverter is exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks!

Here's a breakout of the rotary switch. To enable charging on the lithium profile, connect 1 and 8 together into one of the common pins. For me I use a relay in the C pin of the relay I connected a common pin from the switch. On the NC side of the relay I connected 1 and 8 together. This makes it so that when the relay energizes both 1 and 8 get connected to common.




On a side note, keep in mind you don't need the ATS panel I installed. The sigineer has an ATS built in. I simply wanted a way to bypass the inverter for maintenance or if something failed to not end up without power.
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#26
Yesterday I pointed my thermal camera at the battery cables while my solar system was at full output and I noticed some disturbing temps. The cable I'm using is EXRAD XLE which is rated to 390A the cable itself while hot is still within NEC allowed temps.



Then I moved over to the current sensor and I think I may have to find a way to make a better connection here.



You can see where the connection between the cable and the current sensor is causing the whole cable to heat up.




The funny thing is that the connection to the module is nowhere near that hot (there's a lot of reflection on the picture below but you can see the connection that goes to module is blue/purpleish). The positive cables are also not hot either.


 

The heat has turned the lug black




For a comparison, here's the positive side.

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#27
is there a manual with a guideline how you should connect / mount the shunt?
a Quick and Dirty solution would be to add a metal plate to one side of the Shunt and use it as a Heatsink.
but i dont understand why the Lug is now black. maybe the connection itsealf is not good.
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#28
Usually a hot connection like that is due to a loose or poor connection. Perhaps take the lug back off, hit the contact points with a brass wire brush (either manual or rotary) to get it nice and clean. Then use some alcohol to make sure there is no residue on the surfaces. Tighten the bolts down nice and tight.

I would not put a heatsink on the shunt. This could throw off it's measurements. However, if the shunt is getting hot, perhaps you need to upgrade the shunt to a larger rated one. I haven't read everything here, but depending on the BMS you're using, you might be able to put two shunts in parallel and make the adjustments needed in software to compensate. Two shunts in parallel will report 1/2 the amps used. So the calibration would need to be double the values read. But I'd say replace with a larger one, less work/hassle/chance of goofup.
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#29
There is a datasheet but it just states that when connecting to a busbar you should make a connection to the whole plate.

https://www.isabellenhuette.de/fileadmin..._IVT-S.pdf

I may temporarily remove the shunt and connect directly to the bus bar to see if the temp gets that high again, if they don't then it's on the sensor, if they do then it could be the lug itself.

(10-16-2019, 02:13 PM)Korishan Wrote: Usually a hot connection like that is due to a loose or poor connection. Perhaps take the lug back off, hit the contact points with a brass wire brush (either manual or rotary) to get it nice and clean. Then use some alcohol to make sure there is no residue on the surfaces. Tighten the bolts down nice and tight.

I would not put a heatsink on the shunt. This could throw off it's measurements. However, if the shunt is getting hot, perhaps you need to upgrade the shunt to a larger rated one. I haven't read everything here, but depending on the BMS you're using, you might be able to put two shunts in parallel and make the adjustments needed in software to compensate. Two shunts in parallel will report 1/2 the amps used. So the calibration would need to be double the values read. But I'd say replace with a larger one, less work/hassle/chance of goofup.

Cleaning is my next step. Before removing the shunt to see if there is a difference in temps.

This shunt should be able to handle the power I'm putting through it, it's rated at 1000A and at the absolute max (which isn't very often) I'm putting 300A through it.
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#30
(10-16-2019, 02:13 PM)LPG Wrote: Cleaning is my next step. Before removing the shunt to see if there is a difference in temps.

This shunt should be able to handle the power I'm putting through it, it's rated at 1000A and at the absolute max (which isn't very often) I'm putting 300A through it.

Sounds good.

It's possible the shunt could be hot from the connection, then. Which is definitely more desirable than the alternatives. It's cheaper Wink
At 300A, that thing should be cold to the touch. So yeah, I would guess the connection is causing the issue.

Not sure if you saw Petes video when he checked his connections with his Flir, but he found a loose bolt using it. Even by touching, he couldn't tell much of a difference between that connection and the others. But the Flir caught it clearly. I think he got about a 1/4 turn when tightening. So it doesn't take much to cause heat build up through resistance at those amp levels
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