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60kW Whole House Powerwall build
#31
(10-16-2019, 02:49 PM)Korishan Wrote:
(10-16-2019, 02:13 PM)LPG Wrote: Cleaning is my next step. Before removing the shunt to see if there is a difference in temps.

This shunt should be able to handle the power I'm putting through it, it's rated at 1000A and at the absolute max (which isn't very often) I'm putting 300A through it.

Sounds good.

It's possible the shunt could be hot from the connection, then. Which is definitely more desirable than the alternatives. It's cheaper Wink
At 300A, that thing should be cold to the touch. So yeah, I would guess the connection is causing the issue.

Not sure if you saw Petes video when he checked his connections with his Flir, but he found a loose bolt using it. Even by touching, he couldn't tell much of a difference between that connection and the others. But the Flir caught it clearly. I think he got about a 1/4 turn when tightening. So it doesn't take much to cause heat build up through resistance at those amp levels

Do you have a link to the video?
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#32
(10-16-2019, 03:30 PM)LPG Wrote:
(10-16-2019, 02:49 PM)Korishan Wrote: Not sure if you saw Petes video when he checked his connections with his Flir, but he found a loose bolt using it. Even by touching, he couldn't tell much of a difference between that connection and the others. But the Flir caught it clearly. I think he got about a 1/4 turn when tightening. So it doesn't take much to cause heat build up through resistance at those amp levels

Do you have a link to the video?

I was gonna say no, but I figured I'd scrub his videos and find it for ya:
https://youtu.be/gceZLsR5XSo?t=365

Timestamp location goes directly to that part. The camera detected 76C on the one connection, and only 50C on the other ones.
(Even tho he says 74, the reading said 76 at one spot)
He states in this video about the crimp not being tight enough. I think there was another video where it was the bolt needed tightening. But still, it was a loose connection "on" the lug itself, whether it was wire or bolt. That's a lotta heat generation from loose connection.
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#33
(10-16-2019, 07:23 PM)Korishan Wrote:
(10-16-2019, 03:30 PM)LPG Wrote:
(10-16-2019, 02:49 PM)Korishan Wrote: Not sure if you saw Petes video when he checked his connections with his Flir, but he found a loose bolt using it. Even by touching, he couldn't tell much of a difference between that connection and the others. But the Flir caught it clearly. I think he got about a 1/4 turn when tightening. So it doesn't take much to cause heat build up through resistance at those amp levels

Do you have a link to the video?

I was gonna say no, but I figured I'd scrub his videos and find it for ya:
https://youtu.be/gceZLsR5XSo?t=365

Timestamp location goes directly to that part. The camera detected 76C on the one connection, and only 50C on the other ones.
(Even tho he says 74, the reading said 76 at one spot)
He states in this video about the crimp not being tight enough. I think there was another video where it was the bolt needed tightening. But still, it was a loose connection "on" the lug itself, whether it was wire or bolt. That's a lotta heat generation from loose connection.


Thanks for the link. l put the house on bypass and removed the connection to clean it. I did find the bolt wasn't tight enough to my liking so that could have been it, also while I was at it I cleaned all the black off the lug and left it at bare copper, cleaned both surfaces with rubbing alcohol and tightened them backup. While I was at it I also checked my busbar connections and made them a bit tighter since most of the negatives seemed a bit loose.

Here are the results:



The connection to the sensor is now cold as it should be BUT I have found another issue (which funny enough is the same as Pete mentioned in that video). The lug crimp seems to not have been done to par as it is now the hot spot. That's what I get for using the BMS cables the way they came, I'll have to cut off the current lug and re-crimp them properly.
smaresca and Korishan like this post
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#34
Now you know what to look for Smile

Glad you found out what was going on. Sometimes it takes several steps to get to the root of the problem. It's just a pita to have to keep disassembling/reassembling to find the problem Tongue
But progress is made, and your system will be much more efficient because of it.
smaresca likes this post
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#35
FYI for anyone wanting to recreate my setup. The owner and developer of the EVTV controller I use, has passed away. I'm not sure if anyone is going to continue running the business but at this point I'm considering the controller software to be abadonware with no more updates being available.

If you're going to buy a controller I'd highly recommend first checking if the company is going to stay in business without Jack Rickard or go with the SimpBMS instead.
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#36
(09-14-2020, 12:27 PM)LPG Wrote: FYI for anyone wanting to recreate my setup. The owner and developer of the EVTV controller I use, has passed away. I'm not sure if anyone is going to continue running the business but at this point I'm considering the controller software to be abadonware with no more updates being available.

If you're going to buy a controller I'd highly recommend first checking if the company is going to stay in business without Jack Rickard or go with the SimpBMS instead.

Hello LPG just cruised over your thread.  Nicely done!  I would love to do this to my home some day!  I have the same BMS in my motorhome.  I am running 5 Modules @ 22v nominal with 4800 watts of solar.  The EVTV BMS has been great for the last year that I have used it.  I had the same issues with the heat on the shunt as well.  I also attributed it to the crimps that came from EVTV.  I would take a look at the temps inside the BMS as well.  Mine were even hotter in there than at the shunt.  I ended up replacing their 2/0 cable with 4/0 cable while I was in there.  I also must have ignored the warning a few times about not turning on the BMS while the Laptop USB is plugged in (bypassing the pre charge resistor) as I damaged my contactors (Wouldn't open, kept getting the "Welded" messages).  It could have been the heating but i'm guessing it was my error there. Emails to EVTV a few weeks ago were unanswered (not surprising) so I went straight to Gigavac to replace them, that's on me though.  Definitely check those terminal crimps inside on the contactors!



The community lost a great asset when Jack passed away.  He always emailed back promptly during my build. His lengthy videos were always very helpful.  Hopefully someone takes over as this is a great product.  RIP

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#37
Does that connection point have two holes there like the lower end? would dual cables be an option?

Also check the crimp is good - these need to be done with a high pressure hydraulic crimper.
Wire stands inside should be neat & parallel not crossed or tangled.
You might need to find a lug with a longer "cylinder" where in contact with the cable.
Might also help to have a washer under the bolt to keep the lug flat not "curving up" from bolt pressure?
Running off solar, DIY & electronics fan :-)
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#38
(10-11-2020, 05:46 PM)wifi442 Wrote:
(09-14-2020, 12:27 PM)LPG Wrote: FYI for anyone wanting to recreate my setup. The owner and developer of the EVTV controller I use, has passed away. I'm not sure if anyone is going to continue running the business but at this point I'm considering the controller software to be abadonware with no more updates being available.

If you're going to buy a controller I'd highly recommend first checking if the company is going to stay in business without Jack Rickard or go with the SimpBMS instead.

Hello LPG just cruised over your thread.  Nicely done!  I would love to do this to my home some day!  I have the same BMS in my motorhome.  I am running 5 Modules @ 22v nominal with 4800 watts of solar.  The EVTV BMS has been great for the last year that I have used it.  I had the same issues with the heat on the shunt as well.  I also attributed it to the crimps that came from EVTV.  I would take a look at the temps inside the BMS as well.  Mine were even hotter in there than at the shunt.  I ended up replacing their 2/0 cable with 4/0 cable while I was in there.  I also must have ignored the warning a few times about not turning on the BMS while the Laptop USB is plugged in (bypassing the pre charge resistor) as I damaged my contactors (Wouldn't open, kept getting the "Welded" messages).  It could have been the heating but i'm guessing it was my error there. Emails to EVTV a few weeks ago were unanswered (not surprising) so I went straight to Gigavac to replace them, that's on me though.  Definitely check those terminal crimps inside on the contactors!



The community lost a great asset when Jack passed away.  He always emailed back promptly during my build. His lengthy videos were always very helpful.  Hopefully someone takes over as this is a great product.  RIP




I did not know the usb was causing the welded contactors thank you for posting that I thought that the contactors were getting welded when the controller shuts off the inverter while loaded  I had the same problem with the welded contacts  I finally read a Gigavac manual which stated to cycle the contactor 10 -20 times to break the weld and that has been working for me.  Its sad that jack wont get to see FSD because I know he thought that Elon was wasting time with that and it wasn't going happen but he thought wrong 
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