tin solder

What is your preferred solder?
I've bought 3 on aliexpress and two local.
All 5 had different characteristics.
What would be your coise?

Thanks in advance

100kwh-hunter said:

What is your preferred solder?
I've bought 3 on aliexpress and two local.
All 5 had different characteristics.
What would be your coise?

Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

I useKester 24-6337-0027 Solder Roll, Core Size 66, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149K4JTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I find that I don't need flux - Just solder between cells and copper busbar with no problem.

(As in Soldering Iron - I'm not pushing these products - just sharing what has worked for me for many thousands of cells )

Here's a interesting video:

60/40 rosin core. But do brush off the flux. Don't need a lot of solder either if you do it right. Don't get the large tips, but do get one that is a small chisel point. A 1lb is good for thousands of cells.

Here's a photo of what it should look like.

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Very good info's.
There is indeed a lot of difference, at last now i know why.
The most expensive one that i bought: 41 euro for 500gr.
Is not really good for soldering on the cells, it "splashes" to much and give a lot of small tin drops.
This one i only use for the neg side, til i run out.
The most cheapest one, comes from China, 12 euro incl shipping for 500gr.
I does not have so much resin in it but just enough to let it flow.
You can clearly see the eutectic state when the metal is "freezing".
Both where printed 60 lead 40 tin.

The one from china leaves also nearly no residu from the resin.
It takes a bit longer to make it melt.
I think i stick to this one.
I also going to order the one from the amazon link.

I also had one with 2% copper in it, to save on your tip, my iron was not getting hot enough for it

@not2beme.
I like your pictures, but for you good one, i prefer a little bit more solder.
Your 2 first picture's, well...that how i started, to be honest.
Very quickly it become a nice shining flat drop.

Thanks
I noggtnot2bme2bme

Tip temp is important, as is the ability to respond quickly to a tip temp drop, so thermally balanced irons will see a reducing tip temp if you are producing multiple joints within quick succession.

Splashing and micro-balling indicates to high a tip temp, not matched to the solder being used.

OffGridInTheCity said:

100kwh-hunter said:

What is your preferred solder?
I've bought 3 on aliexpress and two local.
All 5 had different characteristics.
What would be your coise?

Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

I useKester 24-6337-0027 Solder Roll, Core Size 66, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0149K4JTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I find that I don't need flux - Just solder between cells and copper busbar with no problem.

(As in Soldering Iron - I'm not pushing these products - just sharing what has worked for me for many thousands of cells )

Click to expand...

This x1000

Kester 44 in the 63/37 alloy has been about the best solder I have ever used.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_1,searchweb201603_52

This one i use now, i am very pleased with it.
It seems to meet my soldering irons temperature, and leaves a clean spot.

https://www.kabelshop.nl/Alpha-Sold...lood-1000-gram-TIN-WM1000GR-i3620-t16036.html

This one was with a very nice flow, but the soldering irons temp was to high for this tin, it give micro-balling.

My old one from "lotdraht" a.g. with silver was nice but not traceable anymore, probably way to expensive for my taste.
Contained silver tin and lead.

Two other ones where splashing to much.

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@Korishan.
I like that guy very much, he is good.
Especially with those oscilloscopes.

use for soldering Castolin AluFlam 190