Which bms to use

Doin it

Doin it

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Mar 17, 2019
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Some help figuring out which of these two bms to use?..
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Ill just be using one of those battery modules in the pic for now.. If I was going to have a large setup Id get batrium..
Also do I have to have an Android? Or can I use my iPad to adjust whats available to adjust aside from needing a pc..
 
if you are going to use solar get the chargery bms16t, its in the first picture with the battery. I been using the bms8t on my battery pack and its working excellent. It use external contactors/relays to disconnect the charging/discharging, no need for bluetooth it has its own bright lcd screen to program it, you can set the cell cutoffs at the voltage you need. It also balances at 1.2a per cell and has audio alarms/temp sensors.

Its more expensive then a regular bms but it can handle whatever amps you need, limited by the size of your contactor. The amp rating for the chargery is for the shunt use to measure amps, I have the 100a model, they have some that go to 600a. I use a 30amp automotive relay on my system since I never use more then 15 amps.

On ebay I see a chargery bmst16 (300a shunt) for 109 dollars, you have to supply your own contactors/relays. I use a 4 dollar 30a relay on mine. You can download the manual for the bms16t from the chargery website soyou can read all the parameters it can monitor.

The reason to use external contactors/relays on solar is for the bmsto disconnect (with external relay)the solar panel when any limits are exceeded. On a regular bms, if the mosfets stop the charging you get voltage surges from the solar controller.

The drawbacks are its larger, its 2 units one goes on battery and the other (lcd screen) you place close to you. The 2 units are connected with a cable (not wireless)so its always ready to read with no delays to logon. The shunt is also large and heavy. There's wires everywhere. Its not something small and compact like the regular bms.


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Tbh jony I was wanting to use one of the 2 bms in the pics (excluding the chargery which just happen to be in the pic) because Im thinking they would be easier to install, which is good for someone that doesnt have much experience with this stuff like myself..
That being said I can see why it would be important to use a relay/contactor instead of mosfets due to the reason u explained..
The chargery on eBay for 109 seems like it is only the lcd screen.. Dont I also need the module that goes on battery? heres some pics
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The module u said goes on battery, is that just the relays/contactor.. u said Id have to buy them separately...
looks like a lot of the ports that exist on the module that goes on the battery are actually on the lcd module for 109 on eBay?
 
SIMP BMS - it will connect to the OEM Chevy Volt BMS slave on the 16s volt pack.
 
Yeah I did the search before I asked for the link.. not able to find a 16s for sale for gen2 of that type of bms
 
Doinit said:
Yeah I did the search before I asked for the link.. still not able to find a 16s for sale for gen2
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Gen 1 Ampera/Volt is supported - you're using a Gen2 pacK?
 
From what Ive researched, Seems like the overall consensus of these batteries (60v gen 2) is that they do not need to be balanced often or if at all...unless they are discharged to low or charged to high.. These modules have a cakewalk life being designed for EVs higher power needs but only using them for small solar setups that use much less power..
 
I use those bluetooth BMS boards... I have one in 7s and 15s

That said, for my 15s setup which is for my EV packs, I only really use it for monitoring. The packs are too big for the BMSto provide any balancing and the packs will far exceed the currency handling of the BMS as well. Most of my large intermittent loads are connected directly to the batteries though a LVD, and small persistent loads which are always on are connected though the BMS.

Its not perfect, but it works for me, and its cheap.


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Crimp I want one that I can just read the cell voltages in a screen so I dont have to use Bluetooth due to bluetooths distance not being far enough so Ill just go to the battery to check the cells voltage.. something like this one in the pic but Im trying to find one for 16s.. the ev module I am getting has the male plug to connect to the battery then has all the wires there to monitor each cell.

I guess I could use one of those cheap bms like u use for your 15s pack.. problem is why have the bms with Bluetooth if I have to be right up the batteries ass anyways for the Bluetooth to connect.. also do the chinese bms connect to ios, I see it says android.. Ik most things can use both.
 
You don't need one that can do 16s, you need two that can 8s, or 3 that can do 6s

I would buy the ISDT BattGo I have in the photo I posted. Its a nice unit.
 
your saying get 2 battgos that each read 8s.. I wasnt going to leave them plugged in all the time.. Ive read they are generally not supposed to stay installed, that they are more for testing.. so I guess I could just get 1 of the battgos and split my 16 cell wires into two 8s connectors.. do they not make one that I can just plug up the same way but with a 16s connector so I can read them all at once..

Which Lvd would I use that can be adjusted to roughly 58v?
If I knew those Chinese bms could be configured using IOS I would just get one of those, due to them having the LVD and viewing of all 16 cells at once. If I had to Bluetooth my pc to set parameters Id be ok with that as long as I only had to do it once in the beginning
 
Im not really trying to tell you what to use. I was primarily responding to your comment about trying to find a 16s cell monitor as you posted a picture to the HobbyKing Cell Medic unit which has a screen but only does 6s. The point I was trying to make is you dont need to find a 16s unit because they dont really exist in that cell monitor format. You can simply get two 8s cell monitors and accomplish the same thing.

I dont see the harm in leaving them plugged in all the time either, at least not on large packs like these. My BattGo unit spends a ton of time attached to my system for monitoring, at least until I need to use them somewhere else for testing.

Yes, you can and should split up the JST balance leads into two 8s connectors. That said, why stop at one BattGo or similar? Moving them from 1 connector to the other sounds pretty lame. Get 2 and see all 16 cells at once. I bet it still cost less than some other solutions you might want to consider including that Bluetooth BMS board I like. At least you get your local screen without need for an Android device, from what I understood this is what you were trying to do in the first place.

For a LVD I would use the Victron BMV-712 Smart battery SoC monitor and the Victron battery protect unit, contactor, or something similar which is rating for the application.
 
I want u to tell me crimp.. lol u know more about all this for sure.. thx for letting me know they dont make a 16s monitor.. I will get a few of the ISDT units to not have to disconnect-where out the connectors.

Yeah I guess u correct about letting them stay connected to a bigger battery, they said on the site not to due to draining battery but thats probably for smaller packs..

So for the Lvd I could use my charge controllers aux to set off a contactor when battery voltage is to low? My inverter already has a low voltage disconnect aswell.. although it doesnt actually disconnect
 
Doinit said:
I want u to tell me crimp.. lol u know more about all this for sure.. thx for letting me know they dont make a 16s monitor.. I will get a few of the ISDT units to not have to disconnect-where out the connectors.

Yeah I guess u correct about letting them stay connected to a bigger battery, they said on the site not to due to draining battery but thats probably for smaller packs..

So for the Lvd I could use my charge controllers aux to set off a contactor when battery voltage is to low? My inverter already has a low voltage disconnect aswell.. although it doesnt actually disconnect
Click to expand...

I don't think you can program the aux relay in an outback MX/FM controller to act as a low voltage disconnect, from memory.
 
The low voltage disconnect should be connected between the battery bank and the load(s) to protect the battery from over-discharge. There could be multiple ways to do this depending on what you are trying to accomplish

Dumb loads like lighting would need a LVD, but if you can set your inverter to cut-off at a specific voltage, that may be sufficient if its the only load and had a low idle current.

The smaller Victron MPPT controllers with a load output have a programable LVD, unfortunately the larger ones dont, but the communication port can be used to control the battery protect units from what I understand. This ultimately save you the cost of the BMV monitoring unit in my previous recommendation. I have a Victron 75/15 and I find it to be a very useful feature.

As far as monitoring I didnt want to make a blanket statement about cell monitors, but it would be rare, very rare to find anything larger than 10s. At least in those little convenient plug and play models.
 
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