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Batrium configuration assistance for Leaf Gen 1 batteries
#1
Hello folks, Its Dav here from UK

I have physically installed all the hardware for my Batrium Watchmon 4.3 and 7x Leafmons connected to 28x Nissan Leaf Gen 1 modules in 14s4p configuration using Victron Multiplus II GX Inverter

I am looking for your advice on what settings I should configure the Batrium for, specifically the following:

Cell Hi Cutout
Bypass Voltage
Remote Charging Target - Voltage (High/Low)
Remote Charging Target - Current(High/Low)
Remote Discharging Targets - Voltage+Current
Absorption voltage
Float voltage

Many thanks
Dav
Battery Capacity: 14kwh  = 28x 2011 Nissan eNV200/Leaf Gen1 Modules (14s4p) with Victron Multiplus II GX 48/3000 AC Coupled Inverter
Solar Capacity: 3.18kwh = 12x REC 265PE BLK Solar Panels with SolarEdge SE4000 Inverter
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#2
So assuming you're after good cell life values approx as below would be a good start:
Cell Hi Cutout = 4.25V
Bypass Voltage = 4.1V or close so you get a little bypassing at "full" (set bypass auto balance on >80% SoC), I tweaked mine so it just bypasses a bit to balance the pack.
Remote Charging Target - Voltage (High/Low) = 4.1V
Remote Charging Target - Current(High/Low) = allow charger max current unless cells <~2.5V or charger current is very high (your ~3.2kW name plate, likely actual ~2.5kW current should be OK)
Remote Discharging Targets - Voltage+Current = ~3.0V**, current = doesn't matter
Absorption voltage = 4.1V
Float voltage = 4.05V but could be 4.1V too as you're already under 4.2V max.

** if you look at the graphs here:
https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/arti...ristics_li
You don't want to be on end the parts where the voltage starts to drop off faster, so you might pick ~3.4V as cell min volts where you stop discharge & switch back the the grid /backup gen, etc

Daromer will likely add some values too.
BigDav likes this post
Running off solar, DIY & electronics fan :-)
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#3
These settings depend a lot on how you are using your battery bank.  For example - the key things for me are:
1) Low voltage cutt-off.   When you turn the inverter off.   This should be just ahead of the discharge curve knee.   In my case this is about 3.57v/cell. This isn't a Batrium thing but rather a 'operational design feature'.
2) Do I need daily balancing.   In my case - no.    The last time I balanced was over 6 months ago..  and this is with daily charge/discharge.
3) Max charge voltage.   I set Float to 4.0v/cell for longer life.   Most days I don't get there as the power consumption is high enough that I can limit the battery use - the average daily high is 3.75v/cell.

So I set my values a bit above my normal float - e.g. 4.05v is just above my 4.01v high AND critical such as Hi Cell Voltage to 4.16 for safety just in case I'm fooling around and forget what I've done.     Then when I need to do a balance - such as when adding a new pack or addressing a pack causing > 100mv difference thru the cycle - I can just enable auto-balance for a light touch OR let the charge controller charge things up to 4.05v (instead of 4.00v/cell) to cause top level balancing.

Here are my settings for 'normal' operation.


The key point I'm trying to make - the operational process you settle on can affect how you set things. Once the system is balanced and running (and bad cells replaced/stablized etc) - its a little different than when first building/setting things up.
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#4
OffGridInTheCity Wrote:These settings depend a lot on how you are using your battery bank.  For example - the key things for me are:
1) Low voltage cutt-off.   When you turn the inverter off.   This should be just ahead of the discharge curve knee.   In my case this is about 3.57v/cell.  This isn't a Batrium thing but rather a 'operational design feature'.
2) Do I need daily balancing.   In my case - no.    The last time I balanced was over 6 months ago..  and this is with daily charge/discharge.   
3) Max charge voltage.   I set Float to 4.0v/cell for longer life.   Most days I don't get there as the power consumption is high enough that I can limit the battery use - the average daily high is 3.75v/cell.

So I set my values a bit above my normal float - e.g. 4.05v is just above my 4.01v high AND critical such as Hi Cell Voltage to 4.16 for safety just in case I'm fooling around and forget what I've done.     Then when I need to do a balance - such as when adding a new pack or addressing a pack causing > 100mv difference thru the cycle - I can just enable auto-balance for a light touch OR let the charge controller charge things up to 4.05v (instead of 4.00v/cell) to cause top level balancing.

Here are my settings for 'normal' operation.


The key point I'm trying to make - the operational process you settle on can affect how you set things.  Once the system is balanced and running (and bad cells replaced/stablized etc) - its a little different than when first building/setting things up.
My goal is to preserve the life of the batteries for as long as possible so having conservative voltages is my plan. I have changed a few settings and would like your advice, or even better send further screenshots of the Critical Control Logic screens for Critical, Charging and Discharging etc and shunt screen

My current settings are below:






Battery Capacity: 14kwh  = 28x 2011 Nissan eNV200/Leaf Gen1 Modules (14s4p) with Victron Multiplus II GX 48/3000 AC Coupled Inverter
Solar Capacity: 3.18kwh = 12x REC 265PE BLK Solar Panels with SolarEdge SE4000 Inverter
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#5
>My goal is to preserve the life of the batteries for as long as possible so having conservative voltages is my plan.
This more about your daily max charge, min discharge (e.g. DOD) and other operational aspects of your system. One of the key things is voltage range of charge/discharge and I control this by my Midnite Classic 150 Aux1 relay. Batrium is not involved. Its not to bash Batrium or suggest that it can't help or control inverter on/off - but rather to point out that I don't see Batrium as the 'answer' to long life - its more of a metric/safety/operational-tool component in the system.


Having said that, let's talk Batrium... I'm an 'intermediate level' Batrium user (not an expert).    For example, I've purchased and mounted my ABB 400a shunt-trip but not hooked it to Batrium yet - this is planned for this winter.    So I use Batrium more for monitoring and balance when adding new packs (so far) than for 'critical shut-trip'.  

Having said that - I do have what I believe are 'sane' settings and the system is operating well for me.

Let's start with CellMon settings (mine is above)...  2 things
* I'm not sure your Leaf cells (e.g. Lithium Ion) are OK to charge at -5C.    You might want to visit this and note that these temp settings appear on other pages.    In particular I think 5C is the lower end of the temp recommended for charging.   Discharge can be lower.
* Notice that I set Bypass Temp Limit to 55C  (and Bypass Current Limit to 1.26a) as a way to 'go easier' on the longmons - e.g. less current / less heat and maybe they'll last longer.    These setting work - especially the temp limit as I can see the affect when balancing.    Full disclosure - not all agree that this is necessary as there has been some discussion on the best approach to these options n the past.   I mention it here just to draw your attention to this.

Shunt Settings - they look OK to me.  I don't really use this.  I get my AH and % DOD from my own calculations based on the overall metrics.    There are far greater experts on this forum on this than me.   As you requested, here's mine.   I currently have 14s  48v@780ah lithium ion battery bank.


Critical Settings -
* As mentioned above, I would revisit Hi/Lo Cell temp and Hi/Lo Ambient temp for the operational (charge/discharge) health of your cells.   
* Your "Low Supply Volt" of 37.8 / 14 = 2.7v/cell.     I set mine a bit higher (more realistic in some ways) at 3.1v/cell.    Seems like this should be consistent with "Lo Cell Volt" settings on this and other pages.
* Charge Discharge Max Current - mine is set (250a) at the overall operational limits of my system.  For example, I have AIMS 12,000w inverter which can deliver a continuous 240v@50a.  This is 250a@48v - e.g. 48v is 3.43v/cell which is about as low as I plan to go.  This is all a bit fussy - but the gist is to set these at the planned (or safe) maximums of your overall system.   
***Remember, I haven't actually put my ABB shunt-trip online yet - so these critical settings have no affect on my system yet.. so this is more "as I say than as I do Smile"  Here's a picture of my settings:



Charging/Discharge Settings....    As you can see from my tone above, simple make the settings consistent with other pages (e.g. Lo/Hi V and Temp and overall system (safe) operating parameters.     I turned off Shunt Hi Cutout for example as I'm not that sure what it does ...  perhaps fire the shunt-trip?    And as I mentioned I don't have it hooked so it doesn't matter for me at this point.    However, I did try to just set consistent/sane values for the system.   Here's charging and discharging is similar.



Remote - Don't know what this is for / maybe someone will comment.

VoltView - info, there are no settings. I dump the Batrium info every 5 minutes (Tools -> Snapshot Report) and parse it into a database. This info combined with Midnite Classic 150 metrics form the basis for custom info and reports that I use.
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#6
I just put a new 14s100p 'battery' online last night and have started the balance process - to bring it in line with the others and to tidy up the drift from the last 6 months of the other packs.   Since I don't  (top) balance it's time for Batrium Auto-Level... and it occurs to me that you may find it as useful a technique as I do - but you might not be aware. So let me bring your attention to Batrium Auto-Level.

Shout-out to @Daromer (Diy Tech and Repairs) for doing youtube on this explaining it -  Batrium - Auto level and balancing of your battery packs   https://youtu.be/qNNffhusbXQ

Auto-Level works on the voltage difference between cells rather than the Bypass (top) voltage.   It lets you balance cells while the system is active/producing-power and doesn't care about some arbitrary top level voltage - which is difficult to maintain in a live system because Sun/charging and Inverter/discharge cause the battery voltage to go up/down unpredictably all day.  

Auto-Level is enabled on the Hardware -> CellMon page -> Bypass Extra Mode dropdown  - set it to "Auto Level".   Then the More link will open the auto-level pop-up screen and you can set the "Gap"  (mine is 0.01v) and Banding (mine is 0.03v) to cause it to balance all day...
Here's my settings:


Here's a view of the Chart showing Auto-Level in action - notice it does 'bands of cells' because I set Banding to 0.03v difference.  


After a few days I'll be all synced up and can turn it off for another 6 months and/or until I get my next battery ready Smile
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#7
OffGridInTheCity Wrote:I just put a new 14s100p 'battery' online last night and have started the balance process - to bring it in line with the others and to tidy up the drift from the last 6 months of the other packs.   Since I don't  (top) balance it's time for Batrium Auto-Level...  and it occurs to me that you may find it as useful a technique as I do - but you might not be aware.  So let me bring your  attention to Batrium Auto-Level.

Shout-out to @Daromer (Diy Tech and Repairs) for doing youtube on this explaining it -  Batrium - Auto level and balancing of your battery packs   https://youtu.be/qNNffhusbXQ

Auto-Level works on the voltage difference between cells rather than the Bypass (top) voltage.   It lets you balance cells while the system is active/producing-power and doesn't care about some arbitrary top level voltage  - which is difficult to maintain in a live system because Sun/charging and Inverter/discharge cause the battery voltage to go up/down unpredictably all day.  

Auto-Level is enabled on the Hardware -> CellMon page -> Bypass Extra Mode dropdown  - set it to "Auto Level".   Then the More link will open the auto-level pop-up screen and you can set the "Gap"  (mine is 0.01v) and Banding (mine is 0.03v) to cause it to balance all day...
Here's my settings:


Here's a view of the Chart showing Auto-Level in action - notice it does 'bands of cells' because I set Banding to 0.03v difference.  


After a few days I'll be all synced up and can turn it off for another 6 months and/or until I get my next battery ready Smile
I was not aware of this feature. I have run in on auto level for 3 days and the cells seem to be better balanced because of it. THANKS AGAIN
daromer likes this post
Battery Capacity: 14kwh  = 28x 2011 Nissan eNV200/Leaf Gen1 Modules (14s4p) with Victron Multiplus II GX 48/3000 AC Coupled Inverter
Solar Capacity: 3.18kwh = 12x REC 265PE BLK Solar Panels with SolarEdge SE4000 Inverter
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