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Cisco Server Power Supply hack
I snagged myself a Cisco 2500W PSU for dirt cheap. I'm thinking 208A@12v should give me some head room for expansion.

I've scoured the net but cannot find any specifics on how to get it to power up outside its home.

I did find a step by step testing guide that works for most unknowns, so if no help arrives, I'll try that, and report back.

Does anyone know the bypass setup, or at least the pin outs for the PSU connections on a Cisco UCS 5100 Blade server?
Havent touched the cisco psus myself. They mostly die Tongue Only experience in DPS from HP.

But if you found a guide follow it.
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SO that PSU sale fell through. At $26 it was a listing error. I was thinking hard tonight that I had an old HP server that stopped working a few years back. I went to inspect my rack. I also found a DELL that I bought for the drives. Well... it has 2 500W supplies - JACKPOT! I found a couple of vids for this specific model and went to work. I've just finished modding it to work standalone.

I installeld a switch and relocated the the 3 LEDs to the top as well. Whilst working inside I bumped off the top of a trimpot. I summized that it must be a voltage adjustment and considered installing a POT on the case to, but once I got 
it back together and played with under test, it did not change the voltage output at all, so I do not know what it does :/
Any clues?

Here's the finished product. 41 Amps at my service.

I may consider putting a mini voltmeter in place of the switch and put a 240v switch at the back at a later date. Not really necessary, but these things always look cooler with a display Smile Even better with an AMMETER if it could fit - but the larger meters would foul on other components.
I have used some of the larger cisco bricks of different sizes (2800W - 113A at 12V and 26A at 50V) and the pinout needs two pins connecting with a resistor, which is effectively pulling up one of the pins to the logic level. The outputs are fully isolated on the larger supplies so they can be used in parallel or series (but check the logic wiring if you are trying to switch a number of them on/off together and have them in series as they will need isolating). They are cheap, but not as effiicent for long term use and a noisy fan... good for charging on the odd occasion.
If you can't quantify how much they cost, it's a deal, I'll buy 5 of them for 3 lumps of rocking horse ......
The fan on these is tolerable. Nothing like the first HP Proliant I got - got a headache from setting that one up, until I could turn the fan down.

These required 3 pins shorted together - essentially 2 to ground, so that is what I did internally through a switch.

I'll look at series or parallel later if I need the power. First thing is just to power the LiitoKala capacity testers, and then the iCharger when I get that. No reason I can't run that on a separate PSU anyhow.

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