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48 Volt 1000 Watt Rear Hub Ebike Conversion
#11
Looks like a 14s4p setup in a single pack? You can't add busbars and fuses in the traditional way running lengthwise along the pack. You have the most positive on the group of four cells on the far left on the picture and the most negative on the group of four cells on the near right. Between the groups of cells on the other side of the battery you'd usually have a total seven "2x4 nickel strips", on the top side you'd have six with the most positive and most negative terminal not connected. But you can put a piece of copper busbar widthwise between each group of cells and attach the four positive and four negative terminals of the adjacent cells with fusewire. You can see an example in Wattsups video.
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#12
I added illustrations to your image. Red lines show the bus bars (the bottom ones are shown by which two rows they would go between), green lines show the fuses/wires, and the blue line shows the flow of electricity through the pack.
EDIT: Whoops, looks like I forgot to deselect some of my lines when changing colors. Silly Paint. the green line near the - (minus) end should be blue, and the + (positive) on the right should be all blue, not blue and red.
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#13
The guys are right and how you have your cells configured is correct.

Just check voltages before you connect them but the look like new cells so should be similar..Best to build the pack with cells around half charge if possible.

Brwainers diagram should help you. 

As DR saiid the opposite and negative are at either end and the busbars alternate on the other side.

I used around 4mm2 twisted copper wire for busbars and 8 amp fuse wire.

I got my bag from an AU ebike company but there are heaps on Ali. I'll link the one I got later because it's a good one!

I'll  add some photos later

You will save heaps of money building it yourself and there is satisfaction in DIY Wink
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#14
Great thanks guys, here is what I have come up with....

Hope its correct!



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#15
If it wasn't correct this would have been indicated by white smoke! Big Grin

Some of your solder connections look pretty bad though, not enough heat and solder didn't flow properly.
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#16
The only thing I worry with a pack this small is the current flow. The fuse rating will be the limiting factor. Since we're talkin about using with an electric bike, amp draw will large.

So, if the motor pulls 100A (not sure what your stats are, just an example), that means 100 / 5 = 20A per cell (as you only have 5p and current is "only" shared across parallel connections).
However, if your motor pulls 50A, then 10A is the amps per cell. I hope your fuses are rated accordingly. If 1 fuse pops, then it will cause a cascade failure.

50A load: 10.0A | 10.0A | 10.0A | 10.0A | 10.0A
Pop Fuse: 0.0A | 12.5A | 12.5A | 12.5A | 12.5A

Now they are having to handle a higher amp, and the next one blows making the other 3 16.6A, then 2 (25A), then 1 (50A). Course, this happens in a relatively short span (<2seconds I would guess)

Just saying. But if your motor pulls 25A, I think you'll be fine if they are rated at 7A
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#17
(03-09-2018, 03:19 PM)zag2me Wrote: Great thanks guys, here is what I have come up with....

Hope its correct!



Looking good!
I'll post some pics of my battery later today so you can see how I did the pos and neg leads.
I just added some new connectors and on off switch as well.

Are you going to shrink wrap?

This is the bag I used. You may be able find it on Ali?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=...2410290674

(03-09-2018, 06:41 PM)Korishan Wrote: The only thing I worry with a pack this small is the current flow. The fuse rating will be the limiting factor. Since we're talkin about using with an electric bike, amp draw will large.

So, if the motor pulls 100A (not sure what your stats are, just an example), that means 100 / 5  = 20A per cell (as you only have 5p and current is "only" shared across parallel connections).
However, if your motor pulls 50A, then 10A is the amps per cell. I hope your fuses are rated accordingly. If 1 fuse pops, then it will cause a cascade failure.

50A load: 10.0A | 10.0A | 10.0A | 10.0A | 10.0A
Pop Fuse:  0.0A | 12.5A | 12.5A | 12.5A | 12.5A

Now they are having to handle a higher amp, and the next one blows making the other 3 16.6A, then 2 (25A), then 1 (50A).  Course, this happens in a relatively short span (<2seconds I would guess)

Just saying. But if your motor pulls 25A, I think you'll be fine if they are rated at 7A
If the controller is same as mine it's 30 amp.

I'm using 8 amp fuse wire and seems fine. 30 / 4 = 7.5A and that's peak, not continuous.

I'm going to add a watt meter to mine soon. 
Wink
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#18
Here's how I did the power leads using 12 AWG silicone wire 



And upgraded the connector to anti spark XT90 and on off switch

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#19
nice job on the anti-spark
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#20
Next additions will be led light bar. Might have to make a mounting bracket



And some mud guards
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