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Cartridge Style Power Wall
#21
Great work! My build is nearly identical! I used the exact same Reliable brand AC inverter, 1/2 copper pipe as a buss bar, even the same holders and voltmeters. lol.
I just wanted to clear up a couple things that other people commented on. Im new to forums so forgive me for not doing the quote thing correctly.

Regarding the battery holders adding resistance. Yes, while trivial the extra connection, solder multiplied by the number of cells in series then doubled could add up. BUT! Those wonderfully cheap holders have a hidden feature that I like to life-hack a bit. If you buy the ones with lead wires (or just google it) you'll notice the crappy wires are soldered on the top of the clip through the little holes in the top. Inspired by this I buy the ones without leads like in this build then feed my good copper wire through the same hole with enough bare copper to reach far enough down the clip so that the battery makes contact directly onto my copper and I solder it in place using the silver metal merely as a spring and holder!  Wink  You could even do the same thing with the extra slack in your fuse wire.

I too keep my cells spot welded in sets of 3, 6 or 9 when ever possible.  I test them while breaking the packs down until I find the bad cell leaving the good sets in tact. I test mine mainly with my XTAR Dragon, SkyRC MC3000 or Lii-500's but the Opus BT C-3100 is my least favorite charger by far. Even after I soldered in the copper/silicon wire hack inside it still has the least accurate battery resistance readings and its capacity results are at times 20% off when all my other analyzers are within 5%. I just say this because it kind of defeats the purpose of sorting and pairing when the results are so skewed, I really was really optimistic when I first got my Opus a couple months ago.   By the way, the Sky RC MC3000 is insanely complex and the user can program almost anything. Its like a little Cadex C7400.  You can even redefine the timers so that if you had a 1s9p set in one slot it wont time out before it is tested. However I still prefer the XTAR Dragon becuase if you're doing A LOT of charge/discharge/charge tests it will keep doing them automatically without the need to press a single button! The only downside to the XTAR is that there is no resistance test when its in the slots, instead it does the most accurate one Ive ever seen with two high quality silicone probes that you zero out first then test the voltage and resistance of what ever you want. I typically sort a box or two then go through them all and record the resistance and voltages. Then later when you're building your packs if a voltage is off you can avoid using a bad cell that will self discharge the whole pack.  

I saw you're in Iowa. I am in KC and get cheap surplus Zoll medical R series packs and Dell laptop batteries and that are mostly unused Samsung cells manufactured in 2016 with no bad cells and I get boxes of them! Smile   So many I just stopped taking them because I ran out of room, lol,  so let me know if you're ever down this way and Ill hook you up!

Lastly, I just got a 3d printer and have been playing around with printable 18650 holders that look way better than the ones I have been buying!  At $0.08 per print or $0.18 printed with carbon fiber Wink these are extremely affordable. Especially when you can customize any number of cells like a 14 cell wide battery holder!  Check out a site called Thingiverse and search for battery or 18650, it'll blow your mind! lol.


.stl files can't be uploaded here, hint hint Wink , otherwise I would share them. lol. Is there a physiables thread yet?
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#22
(12-28-2018, 12:43 PM)RevampKC Wrote: .stl files can't be uploaded here, hint hint Wink , otherwise I would share them. lol.

No, but zip files can Wink Wink
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Proceed with caution. Knowledge is Power! Literally! Cool 
Knowledge is Power; Absolute Knowledge is Absolutely Shocking!
Certified 18650 Cell Reclamation Technician

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#23
(12-28-2018, 12:43 PM)RevampKC Wrote:  Even after I soldered in the copper/silicon wire hack inside it still has the least accurate battery resistance readings and its capacity results are at times 20% off when all my other analyzers are within 5%.

Nice work on all your stuff.
I do agree with you on the OPUS IR test and it is way off. even if you deduct as the instructions say 30mΩ and take into account a 10% to 20% error on the IR measurement. I even did the mod on one of mine as I have 2 soon to have 3, it made no difference. I must politely disagree with you on the OPUS being 20% off though. Did you test it with brand new cells? I did, and although higher than the rated cells mAh it was so by a max of 3.8%.
You can see my test results in the FAQs.
I also test with the LiitoKala, Foxnovo and the XTAR. I cross check them with each other and all of them including the Opus are within a 5% margin of each other. Yes IR is superior with the XTAR as it runs very close to my YR1030 dedicated IR tester.
So forgive me for respectfully disagreeing with you on the Opus.
Question, are you pre-charging your batteries before you put them into the Opus or are you letting the Opus do it all charge, analyze and recharge?
Now if you where talking about the Zanflair I would wholeheartedly agree with you. Big Grin .

Wolf
If 18 X 650 = 2200+mAh then we have power! 
May all your Cells have an IR of 75mΩ or less Smile
Last count as of 8/7/2019
Total Number of Cells Recorded and processed                 6106
Total Cells required for PowIRwall                                   2856
Total Cells ≥2200mAh, ≥80%, ≥35mΩ, ≤75mΩ, ≥4.12V   2694
For Info Google Drive
Not your average Wolf       
            Cool
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#24
There hasn't been a whole lot of action on the wall since I originally posted. Everything runs smooth and cool, and I still haven't had to do any balancing. I can't wait for higher and longer sun hours because this charging for a week to get full sucks and severely limits my off grid power potential! Im just about to start capacity testing the next round of cells and start making more cartridges. I'm still at a loss of what to do to extend my buss bars besides just smashing the tips and soldering a longer length of pipe to them...so that's what I'm going to do. I should be adding about another 2.5kwh or so.
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#25
(01-17-2019, 09:51 PM)mr_hypno Wrote: There hasn't been a whole lot of action on the wall since I originally posted. Everything runs smooth and cool, and I still haven't had to do any balancing.

Usually what we strive for Wink
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Proceed with caution. Knowledge is Power! Literally! Cool 
Knowledge is Power; Absolute Knowledge is Absolutely Shocking!
Certified 18650 Cell Reclamation Technician

Please come join in general chit-chat and randomness at Discord Chat (channels: general, 3d-printing, linux&coding, 18650, humor, ...)
(this chat is not directly affiliated with SecondLifeStorage; VALID email req'd)
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#26
(01-17-2019, 09:51 PM)mr_hypno Wrote: There hasn't been a whole lot of action on the wall since I originally posted. Everything runs smooth and cool, and I still haven't had to do any balancing. I can't wait for higher and longer sun hours because this charging for a week to get full sucks and severely limits my off grid power potential!

I wish I was in your situation! The goal is always to have more battery power than what you can produce! You have no idea how aggravating it is to see your batteries fully charged by 1pm and knowing you could produce at least 2kw more and it's all going to waste!!
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#27
Quote:anyways ... how do you capacity test 1s6p?  my Opus only goes up to 10000mAH, so ... ? ? ?  just a wonderin'

Nowadays, I no longer work with groups of more than three (1s3p) cells welded together.  My Opuses cant measure good cells [read: slots] beyond this capacity ...

My Opus changes to Ah after 10,000 mah. I tested a 6p the other day to see what would happen and it switched to 11.27 AH instead of 11270 mAh. v 2.2 on the Opus.
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#28
Good news on the 1st batch of my latest cells. I was kinda iffy because they were all like 1.5v when I liberated them. To my suprise they have held right at 4.2v for over 6 weeks! 1 run is showing 2350-2400mah at 1 amp discharge from 4.2 down to 3.0v. I have about 200 or so of those (CGR1850Ds). They will end up being my healthiest cells in terms of % capacity from new. And they were less than $0.50 a piece!
I have at least 100 Toshiba LGR18650Ps that test almost new too if someone was interested in them. 1400-1600mah @1amp out of a possible 1650mah.
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#29
(12-16-2018, 09:35 AM)DCkiwi Wrote: anyways ... how do you capacity test 1s6p?  my Opus only goes up to 10000mAH, so ... ? ? ?  just a wonderin'

Nowadays, I no longer work with groups of more than three (1s3p) cells welded together.  My Opuses cant measure good cells [read: slots] beyond this capacity ...

DCkiwi
I retested one of my 1s6p for you and took a picture this time. Theoretical is 19.04 Ah the Opus read 19.52 Ah
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#30
do you solder fuses to small pin? isn't that very hard? i'm trying spotwelding (with pain on settings)
Building Lifepo4 Powerwall - atm 1400 cells growing

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