DIY BMS possible upgrade

AndyMc1970

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Oct 22, 2017
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Hello All
i am looking at building the DIYBMS by Stuart Pittaway and Colin Chickey.https://github.com/stuartpittaway/diyBMS
I am hoping they read this as well and get in touch with me. So hard to do private messages on Youtube.

However after reading the documents, the BMS can only run 1000w therefore on a 48v system of 14S???p that is 1.5A, i want to run a 3000w inverter on 48v system, so that would be 3 times the amount, so around 4.5A each cell.

Firstly am i correct with the above numbers and how the BMS would operate.

The main question is can the BMS cells be upgraded to handle the 4.5A and if so which componentsetc.
Any help would be great.
Thanks
Andy

PS please dont suggest Batrium as i cant afford it.
 
I think you misunderstand the limits. You talk about balancing limits on the BMS comparing to the current on normal draw/charge.

First of all 4.5A per cell is way to much if you go for 2nd hand laptop cells. Thats like 3.5A above what they should have as a max current.

The BMS balancing is something you factor based on how much issues you might have with the battery pack getting out of balance or how big pack compare to time it potentially can take to get into balance.


You can potentially have what ever size you need of system to the BMS. What the BMS need to be able to handle is the total current going through for those having contactor or mosfets to be able to disconnect the load or charge. Same goes for the shunt.

So the actual slave nodes have nothing todo with the current as such unless you plan to have them to protect against over charge as well. That on other hand can be taken care of much more elegantly on the charger or with external control.
 
Sorry when i said CELL, i am not sure what the correct name is called, but one of the parallel packs. I use 14modular cells the same as Paul Kennett.
 
From the FAQ: https://secondlifestorage.com/t-Definition-of-Battery-Pack-Module-Cell-What-are-they]Definition of Battery, Pack, Module, Cell - What are they?
Battery:
The completed end product, a usable DC source for the intended application, made from a number of modules or cells, connected in series and/or in parallel.
Such as a car battery. The unit as a whole is referred to as a battery.

Pack/Module:
Sub-component of the battery, the battery is made of packs/modules. This is "optional", the battery is not always devided in packs or modules.
Sometimes the word pack is also used for a battery (as in power pack).

Cell:
Sub-component of the pack/module and/or the battery. This is the individual 18650 cell (or any other format) and the smallest component.
As in the car battery, it is made up of 6 cells, each cell is ~2V-2.3V each. These cells are connected in series to give an ending result of 12V-13.8V

As for the BMS, that limit is how much it can "balance", not how much it allows through the string. If your packs are only connected together with the balance leads then the string isn't connected together properly.
Basically, if you were to remove the bms entirely, the string will function just fine for charge/discharge. The BMS does not handle throughput amperages. However, there can be a master shunt that is limited and that will be at the end of the string, not between each pack.
If there's a shunt, then upgrading it to one that can handle higher amps will help, but the software has to be adjusted to compensate for the different resistance of the replacement.
 
Or contactor/ mosfets... To disconnect when it fails.
 
AndyMc1970 said:
Sorry when i said CELL, i am not sure what the correct name is called, but one of the parallel packs. I use 14modular cells the same as Paul Kennett.

As they said - basically the current it handles has nothing to do with the current of the overall pack, but just the balancing current. Additionally, you will still need an overall master controller. Maybe it's because I didn't look long enough, but all I saw were slaves - ie: you have individual slaves which read each "cell" (for us each cell is each string of cells connected in parallel such that we have around ~4v which we call a pack) for voltage. It sends that voltage reading to a master module which then tells a slave whether it should start to balance that pack or not. The current rating of the slave modules is how much balancing current it has - ie: how quickly it can burn off excess power in that "cell"/pack.

You still need a master module which reads the voltages from each slave device to determine if balancing is needed, and to tell each cell when to do that. It'll also need to control something else for over/under voltage or current protection.

Maybe it's because I'mobtuse, but it seems to be missing most of what it needs to really work properly - ie: the master module that controls it all.

Also, it just generally seems like you might need to spend more time reading about BMS systems in general.

They are really complicated just in general, which is why the commercial units cost so much. ANY DIY solution is going to require you to spend hundreds of hours learning in a horrifically painful way to get it up and running - there is no easy way out. I'm currently working on a BMS that should be less expensive than any of the other systems out there, but it will still be a DIY solution with bugs and issues that a battriumor electrodacussystem won't have. Your BMS is just as important as your batteries - so it isn't worth skimping on. There are people on here that seem to be manually monitoring their packs and then balance them manually as well. In the end, it just isn't worth it.

Basically, if your battery pack is not going to be that big - buy a pre-made chineseBMS and hope for the best. You can always monitor your pack via bluetooth or whatever, and if it looks strange manually balance or fix it. If you are doing a large battery pack like for a home or over 2kwh that you plan on using constantly - why bother with a manual solution? the reality is that any half-done measure will either be a safety risk, or it'll take so much time to use it properly that you'll just give up on it because it's such a pain in the butt. Or if it is a decent sized battery (think 2-7kwh), and you will use it very infrequently, you can go with the smaller pack BMS systems and their low balance currents will be OK since you are using it so infrequently the BMS will have time to fix any balance issues.

If you decide to go the DIY route, good luck! If you look around, there are dozens of DIY projects from professional electrical engineers that were started, and then months into the project dropped. i couldn't really find any that were "finished" or particularly well documented. One of the best ones I saw (very well documented) is is the Libresolar one, I'd check that one out as it probably has everything you want and need for your BMS - except it's on-board balance current isn't high enough for the super large packs that most of the people on here are using.
 
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