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Home Data Center Powerwall Build
#11
Well, I did a search for Lowe's in Aus, and was surprised to find that they actually closed up shop in 2016. Altho, they were called "Masters Home Improvement" at the time. "Lowes" is an apparel store down there. I'll have to remember that when recommending people to go there Tongue

However, there is a Home Depot in Sydney, Dartmouth, New Minas, and Halifax.
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#12
(01-24-2018, 02:46 AM)floydR Wrote: Don't you have a Bunnings Warehouse near you? I think that would be the closest you can get to a home improvement big box store there. seemed they were all over Australia back in 2010, I visited spent three weeks flying and driving across the your fine country.

later floyd

Yes, we have Bunnings, but have never seen solar mounting hardware. Be awesome if they had it... but they stock more routine DIY products.
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#13
You could try this place. There are a few solar places in this area

http://www.kingsengaluminium.com.au/
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#14
(01-24-2018, 03:00 AM)Korishan Wrote: Well, I did a search for Lowe's in Aus, and was surprised to find that they actually closed up shop in 2016. Altho, they were called "Masters Home Improvement" at the time. "Lowes" is an apparel store down there. I'll have to remember that when recommending people to go there  Tongue

However, there is a Home Depot in Sydney, Dartmouth, New Minas, and Halifax.

Made contact with a local supplier of Radiant products, and to my surprise the additional rails and mounting hardware is really cheap. So I am going to head over there next week and collect the parts I need. Still haven't been able to find reasonably priced solar panels... so may need to buy these Trina Honey M Plus panels.

(01-26-2018, 09:02 AM)Wattsup Wrote: You could try this place. There are a few solar places in this area

http://www.kingsengaluminium.com.au/

Hi Phil, thanks for the tip. Hope you've had a great Australia Day mate. 

Think I have the solar panel mounting hardware covered. 

Hey, looking for some advice on the circuit design for the solar panels. Is there some specific hardware and cabling I'll need? Seems the Trina panels have MC4 connectors, so I figure I have to run them to the inverter/charge controller... but I figure I have to have some kind of protection in between i.e. an isolator? Any ideas?
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#15
Yes, you'll need (should have) fuses between your panels and hardware. Wire gauge sufficient to handle your voltage configuration and length.
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#16
Check regulations where you need.

Minium is generally fuses + disconnect switch. Then you add upp lightning protection on many installs. Also beware that you need hardware approved for the current/voltage in the system. You can even buy prebuilt boxes like this one
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#17
(01-26-2018, 09:04 AM)gregoinc Wrote:
(01-26-2018, 09:02 AM)Wattsup Wrote: You could try this place. There are a few solar places in this area

http://www.kingsengaluminium.com.au/

Hi Phil, thanks for the tip. Hope you've had a great Australia Day mate. 

Think I have the solar panel mounting hardware covered. 

Hey, looking for some advice on the circuit design for the solar panels. Is there some specific hardware and cabling I'll need? Seems the Trina panels have MC4 connectors, so I figure I have to run them to the inverter/charge controller... but I figure I have to have some kind of protection in between i.e. an isolator? Any ideas?

Thanks mate, was a good day, a hot one but good. Hope you had a great day as well!  Smile

As the other guys mentioned, you will need some disconnect/ fusing.
In Aus you're supposed to have a disconnect on the roof at the panels.

Keep asking questions here, lots of combined knowledge!
It may be worth seeking some advice from an off grid installer.
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#18
Hi Folks,

Wanted to check my thinking from a solar versus battery calculation point of view.

I only have enough roof space to accomodate 6 solar panels, based on the panels being 992mm wide. I figure if I were to purchase 295w or 320w panels that gives me approximately 1800 watts of solar power.

So my questions...

1. Because the panels will be in groups of 3, I assume each group would need to have an isolator mounted on the solar panel racks?

Edit: These are some isolators I've been looking at...


2. Do I base the battery size on the amount of power generated by the solar panels? If so, what would be the best method of calculation for LifePO4 batteries?

3. I assume I must run an earth cable from the solar panel racking to an earth spike driven into the ground?

4. Is there a difference between 24 volt and 48 volt inverters? What would be best for a small array of only 6 panels.

5. Based on question 4, to acheive the optimal DC voltage input for charging the batteries... Do you connect the solar panels in series or parallel?

6. With the DC isolation switches on the roof, what other isolation/fusing is required between the solar panels and the inverter/charger?

I think that is a big enough brain dump for now. I hope the conversations will answer any other questions I may have going forward.

Thanks again for your time, it really is appreciated.

A few pictures of progress... roughing in the power and data is pretty much complete. Focus now on insulation and internal wall cladding.



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#19
(01-26-2018, 02:52 PM)daromer Wrote: Check regulations where you need.

Minium is generally fuses + disconnect switch. Then you add upp lightning protection on many installs. Also beware that you need hardware approved for the current/voltage in the system. You can even buy prebuilt boxes like this one

Thanks for the update. Question... when isolation on the roof is required, do you use a breaker or an isolation switch? Seems to me a breaker would be better because it combines overload protection with a switch, whereas an isolator switch is just that a switch. Would be interested in advice, and what would be minimum to comply with Australian standards.
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#20
I would imagine just a switch. As there will never really be an overload of amp draw from the panels. You wire for the max amps what the panels can deliver, so they'd never get maxed out.
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