Portable Battery Bank

2146

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Apr 5, 2017
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I have been debating on whether to do a power wall first or work my way up to one. I decided after seeing all the posts of people building Portable Battery Banks to give it a try.

I made a 3S 12P out of a Harbor Freight Case. I used the 4 cell holders just for ease of switching cells out if one went bad. This case will usually stay in the house and not get tossed around so I am not to worried about cells coming out. They seem to be in there pretty tight anyways. I have mounted the cell holders to a sheet of 1/4 inch plexi glass that I had laying around. I used glass fuses rated at 1 amp for positive and negative side of the cell. Then I ran those to a bus bar. I ended up cutting the end of the 4 cell holder off. The part that would go into a circuit board or whatever. I fused on the top side of tab itself. Made it easier for me to switch out fuses and gave me more room to work with.

I have one dual usb port, 2 ( I call them power points) Cig Plug outlets. 1 I use for charging thebatteries externally until I get something better.

I have two NMB-MAT fans up in the corners. One pushing air in and one pulling it back out. It is over kill to have these but I was thinking better to have them and not need them to not have them and need them. They are little 12 volt .15A fans that hardly pull any power.

I ended up putting some lighting under the batteries just for the heck of it. Just some 12 volt strip lighting that I can change the colors on. Mood lighting for the batteries so they don't get lonely :)

I am not sure if I figured the specs correctly but what I got is roughly 24Ah, and 850Wh. For some reason I added all the cells capacity for Wh.

I ran the pack(Starting Voltage 12.46) until it shut down due to low voltage(9.6) volts, (3.2) per cell. After it shut down it rested at about 10.08 volts, 10 minutes later it is up to 10.30 and climbing.
Total pulled from the pack 20.397Ah,221.45Wh, total run time 5 hours 18 minutes.

I did find some deviation between packs that I need to fix and will make it run better im sure. Left row is at 24,361, Center row is at 20,181, and right row is at 24,722. little out of whack. oops. Deviation between left and center 4.180 Ah, center and right pack 4.541Ah.




I am probably forgetting stuff so any questions or improvements are always welcome.

As of right now I use a Antimatter charger to charge the pack. I plug right into the pack after I disconnect it. I would like some way of using a regular lets say laptop charge I can plug right into the wall. I am not sure of what all I would need to do this? Anyone have any ideas?



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WOW, that is just, well, PERTY!!!! :D Very well done!!!

You did make sure to document the whole process to post here, Instructables, and Youtube for all of us to follow, Riiiiiiggghhhtttt??? :p ;)
 
Korishan said:
WOW, that is just, well, PERTY!!!! :D Very well done!!!

You did make sure to document the whole process to post here, Instructables, and Youtube for all of us to follow, Riiiiiiggghhhtttt??? :p ;)

Thanks Korishan

I documented it as far as pictures and specs. No videos yet but will try and make some soon. I get on youtube but have never posted any videos. I think my sons posted more than I have lol. Once I get something better than a phone camera I will get some good videos and pictures. lol. I like lights as you can tell. Since I build emergency vehicles I have plenty of it laying around.

 
ooohhh mood lighting... pretty... is the color changing in function of the state of charge of the batteries??? would be cool.. :)
 
wim said:
ooohhh mood lighting... pretty... is the color changing in function of the state of charge of the batteries??? would be cool.. :)

Wim
No they're not but that is a great idea. Humm maybe ill have to try and figure that out :).
 
wim said:
Yep, make it happen... you need it. ;)

Honestly wouldn't even know where to start lol. Somehow sense voltage drop to maybe go from green as full , and to red as low voltage?
 
No, it aint that easy... :s
You would need a way to keep track to the Wh consumed, and the Wh charged and calculate the state of charge (Soc%)
Voltage is just a indication of full charged and empty, not in between...
A bms like Batrium has this function, but it is overkill for your project, thereare meters like Victron with a realSoc function, but they are also expencive (+200$).
But, yes, full (+11,5V) ingreen and empty (-9,6V)inred and all in between bleumight bepossible...

I suggest you keep a eye on Daromer his project, he just started someting like yours...
 
All ya gotta do is measure how many mAh was stored during charge, and then monitor how many come out and you have a basic battery meter. Not 100% accurate, but fairly easy to implement. You just need a current sense board for the arduino, or a shunt. Either way will work. but the arduino would have to be on the whole time power is charged or discharged so it can monitor what's going on.

You "could" use SoC or Voltage readings, but between 80% and 40% it'd be a big guess as voltage doesn't drop much. So, the mAh gauge, aka a couloumb counter, is probably the easier, more accurate, and most practical way to go.

As far as video for YT, your sons can teach you ;)
 
wim said:
No, it aint that easy... :s
You would need a way to keep track to the Wh consumed, and the Wh charged and calculate the state of charge (Soc%)
Voltage is just a indication of full charged and empty, not in between...
A bms like Batrium has this function, but it is overkill for your project, thereare meters like Victron with a realSoc function, but they are also expencive (+200$).
But, yes, full (+11,5V) ingreen and empty (-9,6V)inred and all in between bleumight bepossible...

I suggest you keep a eye on Daromer his project, he just started someting like yours...

I figured it wasn't. I think as for right now its a good idea but too much work. It is something to do on my next one I build.
I have been following Daromer as well. Sounds like a interesting box he's going to be building.


Korishan said:
All ya gotta do is measure how many mAh was stored during charge, and then monitor how many come out and you have a basic battery meter. Not 100% accurate, but fairly easy to implement. You just need a current sense board for the arduino, or a shunt. Either way will work. but the arduino would have to be on the whole time power is charged or discharged so it can monitor what's going on.

You "could" use SoC or Voltage readings, but between 80% and 40% it'd be a big guess as voltage doesn't drop much. So, the mAh gauge, aka a couloumb counter, is probably the easier, more accurate, and most practical way to go.

As far as video for YT, your sons can teach you ;)


That makes sense. I have a arduino I have been messing with for a while but still learning on them. Heck im still learning this whole process. just glad I got one thing done that works lol.

I will definitely get with the kid when it comes tovideos :). Thanks for all the input.


Geek said:
That's really neat. Just curious are those fans noisy?

Geek,
They are noisy but not much more than a computer. They kind of sound like a server fan. Luckily I only have them on if I want them on. lately to test the pack I have been pulling 6 amps trying to see what the capacity is and for a 12P with cells between 1900-2200 cells in it its not pulling enough to even get them warm. They stay cool to the touch.
 
You can probably run those fans off 5V. Wouldn't push as much air of course but it's a small case and they'd be much quieter.
 
Mazlem said:
You can probably run those fans off 5V. Wouldn't push as much air of course but it's a small case and they'd be much quieter.

I have tried that and they barely move. Wouldn't do me any good then if I needed them to cool the stuff inside the case. I can deal with the noise and hardly ever use them. I always try to see what voltage I can get these fans down to just to see what voltage they shut off etc. usually not efficient enough below a certain voltage. These run pretty good down to +/- 10 volts.




As of right now I use a Antimatter charger to charge the pack. I plug right into the pack after I disconnect it. I would like some way of using a regular lets say laptop charge I can plug right into the wall. I am not sure of what all I would need to do this? Anyone have any ideas?

I know it would take longer to charge but want to make it easier than having to use the rc charger all the time.
 
[quote pid='24334' dateline='1516896603']
As of right now I use a Antimatter charger to charge the pack. I plug right into the pack after I disconnect it. I would like some way of using a regular lets say laptop charge I can plug right into the wall. I am not sure of what all I would need to do this? Anyone have any ideas?

I know it would take longer to charge but want to make it easier than having to use the rc charger all the time.
[/quote]

How about something like this?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/272881562678
 
Wattsup said:
[quote pid='24334' dateline='1516896603']
As of right now I use a Antimatter charger to charge the pack. I plug right into the pack after I disconnect it. I would like some way of using a regular lets say laptop charge I can plug right into the wall. I am not sure of what all I would need to do this? Anyone have any ideas?

I know it would take longer to charge but want to make it easier than having to use the rc charger all the time.

How about something like this?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/272881562678
[/quote]
That just might work :).Now I will have to look around to find a plug that I can mount thru the case so I can just plug it in from the front and not have to open it. Thanks,


2146 said:
Wattsup said:
[quote pid='24334' dateline='1516896603']
As of right now I use a Antimatter charger to charge the pack. I plug right into the pack after I disconnect it. I would like some way of using a regular lets say laptop charge I can plug right into the wall. I am not sure of what all I would need to do this? Anyone have any ideas?

I know it would take longer to charge but want to make it easier than having to use the rc charger all the time.

How about something like this?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/272881562678
That just might work :).Now I will have to look around to find a plug that I can mount thru the case so I can just plug it in from the front and not have to open it. Thanks,
[/quote

I have a question about power supplys. I know there is a difference between chargers/power supplys etc so that being said can I use a AC/Adapter that puts out 12 volts and 3.33A? I found this on battery university but have not seen any one use this before. That would give me only 4 volts per cell which is what I want anyways.

Lithium-ion
Lithium-ion charges similarly to lead acid and you can also use the power supply but exercise extra caution. Check the full charge voltage, which is commonly 4.20V/cell, and set the threshold accordingly. Make certain that none of the cells connected in series exceeds this voltage. (The protection circuit in a commercial pack does this.) Full charge is reached when the cell(s) reach 4.20V/cell voltage and the current drops to 3 percent of the rated current, or has bottomed out and cannot go down further. Once fully charged, disconnect the battery. Never allow a cell to dwell at 4.20V for more than a few hours. (See BU-409: Charging Lithium-ion.)

Please note that not all Li-ion batteries charge to the voltage threshold of 4.20V/cell. Lithium iron phosphate typically charges to the cut-off voltage of 3.65V/cell and lithium-titanate to 2.85V/cell. Some Energy Cells may accept 4.30V/cell and higher. It is important to observe these voltage limits. (See BU-205: Types of Lithium-ion.)
 
The "Extra Caution" part is about when switching over to Constant Voltage and dropping Current to 0mA between 4.1 and 4.2V / cell and making sure to NOT go over voltage.

Using a regular charger is all fine and dandy, as long as you closely monitor it during the charging process. You need to make sure you have a Voltmeter and Ammeter on them the whole time so you can keep track of what's going on. Then when you close in to the threshold, have some way to start limiting the current as it gets to 4.2V. Very tedious work, imho.
 
Korishan said:
The "Extra Caution" part is about when switching over to Constant Voltage and dropping Current to 0mA between 4.1 and 4.2V / cell and making sure to NOT go over voltage.

Using a regular charger is all fine and dandy, as long as you closely monitor it during the charging process. You need to make sure you have a Voltmeter and Ammeter on them the whole time so you can keep track of what's going on. Then when you close in to the threshold, have some way to start limiting the current as it gets to 4.2V. Very tedious work, imho.

Makes sense. I just thought since the charger was 12volt output and the pack would not get fully charged that it would have been safe.
 
Korishan said:
The "Extra Caution" part is about when switching over to Constant Voltage and dropping Current to 0mA between 4.1 and 4.2V / cell and making sure to NOT go over voltage.

Using a regular charger is all fine and dandy, as long as you closely monitor it during the charging process. You need to make sure you have a Voltmeter and Ammeter on them the whole time so you can keep track of what's going on. Then when you close in to the threshold, have some way to start limiting the current as it gets to 4.2V. Very tedious work, imho.

What would you think about using a Milwaukee 12Volt Li-Ion charger for power tools? Output 12 V, 3.0A.
I was thinking of just using the +and- pins to the battery to hook up to my pack. I know there are 5 pins total and not sure what they do. Not sure if they would have to be hooked up to something?

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I would have thought something like this would be better.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/122816996241

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/112497597282

You can get the female part of the socket at electronics supplier or ebayor similar I would think.

With a U.S socket and 110v if thats what you use. Unless you are just trying to use what you have...which I get too ;)

I'm sure the milwaukee charger would work just use pos and neg. Pretty sure the others are balance and sense wires to pack
 
Wattsup said:
I would have thought something like this would be better.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/122816996241

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/112497597282

You can get the female part of the socket at electronics supplier or ebayor similar I would think.

With a U.S socket and 110v if thats what you use. Unless you are just trying to use what you have...which I get too ;)

I'm sure the milwaukee charger would work just use pos and neg. Pretty sure the others are balance and sense wires topac

Just something I had laying around and figured I didnt havr to buy anything if it would work.


Wattsup said:
I would have thought something like this would be better.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/122816996241

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/112497597282

You can get the female part of the socket at electronics supplier or ebayor similar I would think.

With a U.S socket and 110v if thats what you use. Unless you are just trying to use what you have...which I get too ;)

I'm sure the milwaukee charger would work just use pos and neg. Pretty sure the others are balance and sense wires to pack
I have that a.c. adapter and it seems to work but I keep thinking about what Korishan was saying about my post on using these.
 
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